Wire Connectors

Luv'n Life

New Member
May 11, 2016
7
Mississippi Gulf Coast
Boat Info
2000 290 Sundancer
Engines
Twin Mercruiser 5.0 EFI, Bravo II
I am getting ready to install some electronics on my boat and am considering using Metripack or weatherpack connectors instead of the crimp-on butt connectors that are normally used. It seems that the normal butt connectors start having corrosion issues after a few years and it is a hassle to find the problem. Has anyone ever used the Metricpack/weatherpack connectors in this way? Do you think it would work OK. Which one would be better for use on a boat? Appreciate your thoughts. If I am about to screw up, please tell me. Thanks
 
They work, but I like using Solder Sleeve Heat Shrink Wire Splices. Cheaper and more universal. Work great, by the way.
 
The solder and heat shrink approach when permanently splicing, IMO it is the best way (when done properly). Just remember to put the heat shrink on before you solder :). No matter how well the connector is sealed, when it is a contact connection the chances of corrosion and greater than with a proper solder joint. Just make sure that the connection is supported and anchored if it is going to be moving.

when splicing multiple wires you can individually heat shrink each one, and then have 1 heat shrink around the entire bundle, keeps it more uniform and also adds another layer of protection (both from the elements and flex).

If the connection needs to be removable, than something like the weather pack connectors would be more viable.

For your heat shrink I would recommend something like this as it has adhesive that melts and seals as it shrinks;

http://shop.pkys.com/Ancor-Adhesive..._p_3912.html?gclid=CLO2nY25p84CFRZsfgodPloIew



they also have these but I have not used them in a marine environment. these have solder in them and also shrink around the connection;

http://www.electriduct.com/Heat-Shr...=COmwmum1p84CFRZsfgodPloIew#HS-HP-SS-10-YL-25


all that being said, homeruns are best
 
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I would go with a crimp connector with adhesive shrink in the connector, or a separate shrink tubing.

I would definitely NOT go with solder only, and shrink tubing over the solder joint. This method is specifically prohibited by the ABYC standards. When solder is the only means of connecting wires it creates a solid, brittle joint. The solid joint is then subject to cracking from vibration and flexing, which then can lead to electrical failure, heating, and fire. Placing electrical tape or shrink tubing over the solder joint does not reduce the risk of the joint cracking. FYI, this is why stranded wire is used on a boat, never solid wire as it's subject to cracking as well.

Those metripack connectors are cool, I never new what they were called. I'm sure they are very effective with the rubber gasket and probably why the OEMs use them all over the boat (and in cars). I'd guess sure they are pretty expensive and have to be sourced specially, as in not from West Marine.

When I installed my electronics I tried to have home-run connections where ever possible. For things that needed to be disconnected I used crimp terminals. I also used a buss for common connections, like the ground. For common data connections like NMEA 0183 for GPS to radio, I used a connection box called a PAS-thru box. It was amazingly helpful. 10 years later, no issues.

Here's a photo of my finished project for all my electronic connections.

BOAT_20070622_0025_1.JPG
 
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Nice and neat. But every wire should have a drip loop in it so any water that gets in will not run down the wire and into the crimp or connection box. That also applies to the Garmin box which is upside down in yours allowing water to find down the wiring into the connection. If it's in a 100 always dry location it may not be a concern. (And no, my wiring is not always 100% ABYC compliant either)
 
Nice and neat. But every wire should have a drip loop in it so any water that gets in will not run down the wire and into the crimp or connection box. That also applies to the Garmin box which is upside down in yours allowing water to find down the wiring into the connection. If it's in a 100 always dry location it may not be a concern. (And no, my wiring is not always 100% ABYC compliant either)

It's in a dry location, so I'm not worried about the drip loops. If that area gets wet I have MUCH bigger problems. Is it a 100% perfect install, nope. Bit I was pretty happy with it for a 1st major electronic project. I took a lot of time to plan out everything. I figured the photo might help the OP in ideas for his project.
 

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