osd9
New Member
I just finished making up my flushing and winterizing setup for my CAT Diesels and I thought I would share it here.
The CATs have 2" water supply lines and the previous owner (Sea Gull) gave me a good head start by installing a brass "T" in line with the supply hose. Off the "T" is a reducing bushing from 2" to 1.25" . Off that bushing is a 1.25" brass close nipple to a brass 1.25" ball valve and then to another brass 1.25" close nipple. Off that nipple is a plastic 1.25" elbow and 4" plastic extension. I went with plastic elbow and extension off of the last nipple at the advise of others, especially Frank W. in order to keep the wieght and "moment" to a minimum that was hanging on the first nipple off of the "T".
In this configuration, the setup works as a "crash Valve" or "Dewatering valve". If you spring a leak, you open the crash valve, close the seacock, and use the engines to suck out the water from bilge, hopefully giving you enough time to get back to safe harbor....you know....a "water let'r out'r"
Here is what that setup looks like.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o235/osd9/PB170667.jpg
In these next few pictures, I removed the elbow and 4" estension and put a plastic 1.25" union in there place. I also added my bucket setup so that I can either flush the mains with fresh water or run antifreeze through the mains for winterization.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o235/osd9/PB170668.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o235/osd9/PB170669.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o235/osd9/PB170670.jpg
The bucket is simply a rubber maid bucket with an 1.5" through hull to a 1.5" union to a 1.5" nipple to an 1.5" ball valve which is then reduced to a 1.25" hose adapter. The hose is 1.2" I.D. pond hose. A little ghetto, but it works....
The CATs have 2" water supply lines and the previous owner (Sea Gull) gave me a good head start by installing a brass "T" in line with the supply hose. Off the "T" is a reducing bushing from 2" to 1.25" . Off that bushing is a 1.25" brass close nipple to a brass 1.25" ball valve and then to another brass 1.25" close nipple. Off that nipple is a plastic 1.25" elbow and 4" plastic extension. I went with plastic elbow and extension off of the last nipple at the advise of others, especially Frank W. in order to keep the wieght and "moment" to a minimum that was hanging on the first nipple off of the "T".
In this configuration, the setup works as a "crash Valve" or "Dewatering valve". If you spring a leak, you open the crash valve, close the seacock, and use the engines to suck out the water from bilge, hopefully giving you enough time to get back to safe harbor....you know....a "water let'r out'r"
Here is what that setup looks like.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o235/osd9/PB170667.jpg
In these next few pictures, I removed the elbow and 4" estension and put a plastic 1.25" union in there place. I also added my bucket setup so that I can either flush the mains with fresh water or run antifreeze through the mains for winterization.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o235/osd9/PB170668.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o235/osd9/PB170669.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o235/osd9/PB170670.jpg
The bucket is simply a rubber maid bucket with an 1.5" through hull to a 1.5" union to a 1.5" nipple to an 1.5" ball valve which is then reduced to a 1.25" hose adapter. The hose is 1.2" I.D. pond hose. A little ghetto, but it works....