Winterizing almost complete, but have a few simple ?'s?

P

poormonkey

New Member
Jan 9, 2007
156
St. Charles, IL (burbs of Chicago)
Boat Info
290 Sundancer 2001
Engines
Twin 5.0 w Bravo 3's
Well, I started my winterizing since I wanted to do this myself. Well, all but dealing with the bravo III drives. I am going to take them to a local shop and have them pull them, inspect, grease, and change lube. I think they charge $150 a drive plus the cost of the lube. I had a few simple questions, that I wonder if someone can give me feedback on them.

- If I run a cocktail mix in the fuel filter with the 2 stroke oil in it. Do I still need to pull the plugs and spray the rust inhibitor into each cylinder? Most the marine shops that offer winterizing, they just offer the cocktail solution, and I don't think any of them pull the plugs and spray with rust inhibitor.

- What is the best to clean the bravo drives with? I have heard use "Limeaway Bathroom Cleaner". Anyone recommend something to clean them up?

- Is it ok to store the canvas on the boat if it is down below in the cabin during storage? Or is it best to leave that at home some where warmer?

- I have read to remove all gear from the boat. Does anyone leave anything on their boat? Dishes, towels, sheets?

- Does anyone actually remove their fire extinguishers from the boat while it is being stored?


Can someone tell me when you get a bigger boat, is there more room in the engine compartment to work on things? I felt like only a smurf could get around down there without one hitting their head, getting a cut on a knee, finger, etc...
 
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Here are my thought on the questions you asked:

The purpose of the "cocktail mix" is to provide protection for the cylinder walls in the engine so they don't rust. The shot of oil in the cylinders provides "extra" protection. Personally, I think that's overkill unless your boat is stored in a location that is subject to a lot of humidity and temperature swings being generated during typical winter thaw and freeze cycles.

After six months in the water I had good luck cleaning drive scum off my Bravo 3 with Simple Green. But I have also seen professional boat detailers use strong acidic cleaners (stronger than the Lime Away you mentioned.) It probably depends on just how bad the drives are.

I see no problem storing canvas on the boat itself. Likewise, I believe that a lot of folks remove things to avoid the possibility of theft or any damage to things that shouldn't be subjected to freezing weather.

As far as the engine compartment goes, get a 260DA.:wow: In all honesty, unless you have a single engine boat like a 260DA I think you will always have issues working in the engine compartment. But it could be worse. Try do something in the engine compartment of a 240SD.:smt043
Believe me I thought I died and went to "engine compartment heaven" when I moved from my 240SD to my 260DA. I really think the engine compartment issue varies widely based on the comments I have seen on the board and sometimes bigger boats are just as bad or worse than smaller ones.
 
We use Rislone engine oil additive poured straight in the intake. This coats the cylinders much better. Leaving canvasses on the boat is no problem as long as your icing glass is rolled, not folded. Most of my storage customers leave all linens etc on the boat and nobody takes the fire extinguishers off unless they need to be wieghed.
Brad
Pflieger Marine Services
Oh and the best all purpase cleaner I have found is called Serious Marine Cleaner, I mean it takes oil out of carpet, those calcium marks under your air conditioning discharge, and what ever. In my business I buy it in the 5 gallon size. It can be purchased inexpensively at www.marinediscounters.com.
 
I knew there was a question I forgot about....

I bypassed my hot water tank, and I drained all the water from the tank. Do I need to add any anti-freeze to it? If so, how much? The capacity, 6 gallons? Or is just draining the water fine for the hot water tank?


And thanks for the feedback. In a perfect world if I had endless amount of $ and I would let the marina do the winterizing. However, I am trying to educate myself and save a few bucks.
 
This will also be my first year winterizing a boat of this size (had a 20 ft without all of the extras). With regards to the water heater I was told all you have to do is bypass and drain. No need to put anything in it. Again I have not done this yet, this is just what I was told.

-Ryan
 
Fogging an engine depends on if it has a carb or EFI. Carbs: spray fogging oil down carb. EFI: cocktail run through the fuel system. Drives are cleaned by marinas with diluted HCL which is called muriatic acid. I've used this and Tidy Bowl. Both seem to work equally well and do not harm the paint. If you shrink wrap and store outside, you could have some mildew issues if in your climate, temps go up and down a lot. Condensation causes this. I would take my canvas home in this situation. For inside heated storage leaving it on the boat either up or stored below is fine. I keep nothing valuable on our boat in storage and leave it unlocked so it will not be damaged in the unlikely event someone wants to break in. The fire extenguishers are fine on the boat unless you worry that they will be stolen. The water heater is simply drained. Nothing more is required. What water is left behind may freeze but it has lots of room to expand if you drain the tank.
 
poormonkey said:
I knew there was a question I forgot about....

I bypassed my hot water tank, and I drained all the water from the tank. Do I need to add any anti-freeze to it? If so, how much? The capacity, 6 gallons? Or is just draining the water fine for the hot water tank?


And thanks for the feedback. In a perfect world if I had endless amount of $ and I would let the marina do the winterizing. However, I am trying to educate myself and save a few bucks.
Click to expand...

Draining hot water tank is adaquate.
Brad
 
FYN409 said:
This will also be my first year winterizing a boat of this size (had a 20 ft without all of the extras). With regards to the water heater I was told all you have to do is bypass and drain. No need to put anything in it. Again I have not done this yet, this is just what I was told.

-Ryan
Click to expand...

Just drain it Ryan, leave the valve open all winter. Sometimes they will air lock for no aparent reason and with the valve open it will drain once cleared.
Brad
 
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