Winterizing 260 Sundancer in NC

[jballen1]

I have winterized my fresh water by blowing low pressure air thru the lines to remove all the water so we wont have the bad taste in the spring. Drained the hot water tank. Changed fluids. I have been told that all i have to do is pull the 4 drain plugs out of my 2004 350mag and release all the water. I have also been told that it is not necessary to fill it back up with antifreeze(pink). Any comments on this? This is the first winter with the boat. Thanks for all comments.

 

[Hellman Huddle]

I am in SC and all I do is drain the block after each use in the winter. Last year was the coldest winter we have had in 20 years I had no problem. I also have a Boatsafe bilge heater which keeps all the water tanks from freezing. If you have a camper canvas, put it on and that will allow for the boat to really heat up during the day as well.

 

[Gunn]

Reason for filling the block with anti-freeze is corrosion protection. Currently my boat is still on the dock and I have the single-point drain system and drain it after our outings so we can continue to use it (all other systems have been winterized). Once the boat is hauled for the season in a couple of weeks, I'll fill the blocks with anti-freeze to keep them from corrosion that may (will) develop with just air in the block.

Tom

 

[David Paul]

If I remember correctly, when you have a Bravo outdrive, the Merc Manual also states to bump the engine with the starter a few times (with out starting the engine of course) to get any water trapped in the water pump out.

 

[jballen1]

Thanks for all the comments. I feel better that I wont crack the block with just draining the water. I have not replaced the thermostat in this boat yet and planned on doing it before next season starts. Maybe I will pull that and than put the 4 seacocks back in and fill it up with pink. Not sure if I will get that done before the cold comes Tuesday night.

 

[Lazy Daze]

J - Do you have a single point drain system? Is that what you meant by 4 plugs? In other words... t-stat housing, the area to the port of the balancer, and two in the bravo pump?

If you have the older set-up, then... Look at the bottom bend in your circulating hose. There should be a 5th one there. Also, follow the intake hose backwards, towards the port engine mount, starting at the t-start housing. You should come across a black, plastic box (this is your cool fuel unit). There will be a blue drain plug on the aft end of that unit.

If you don't have the blue plugs in your bravo pump, then be sure to take off the output hose and then bump, as David mentioned. Flip your "kill switch" to keep the engine from starting.

You mentioned you drained the hot water tank... did you also blow out the heat exchanger?

I would definitely recommend putting the pink in, for the exact reasons mentioned above.

I don't know what you temps get to, so some of this may not be necessary. But, if it will get below freezing for an extended period of time, then it is needed.

It doesn't happen often, but there have been a few times where we've seen the top of the engine crack from not pushing pink through. However, this is only going on what the customer has told he/she has done (or not done, as the case may be). I haven't seen it myself, just relaying some info that the some of the techs have given me.

There are pockets of water left in the engine after draining. This is evidenced by the 16oz's (give or take) of water that I see come out the t-stat housing as I start pushing the pink stuff through. Simply draining should be enough, but better safe than sorry.

 

[jballen1]

Ill go to the barn and look for the 5th plug. How would you recdomend filling up with pink.......just from the hoses at the thermostat? Also I am having to remove the hot water heater to work on it.....the input and output going into the exchanger is totaly clogged up.....so I apparently wasnt getting any hot water last year from the motor.

 

[Lazy Daze]

5th and probably 6th plug, too. If you pulled 4 plugs - from each side of the block and manifold, then you'll have the #5 and #6, too.

Yes, fill right through the t-stat housing hoses. Easy peasy.

Do you run in salt most of the time? Heat exchanger might just be dead. The good thing is it didn't rupture while you were using the boat - or you might have wondered why your fresh water was all of sudden tasting salty.

Connect one of the heat exchanger hoses back on the other barb (circ pump or top of engine) before you pour the pink in. If you don't.... well, you'll figure it out real fast!:smt001

Oh, if you have the older style cool fuel... leave that plug out while you "bump".

 

[jballen1]

I have looked and looked and only can find the 4 plugs. One at the front bottom port side, one up near the thermostat, and 2 on the Starboard side together near the seapump. I dont see any other ones. Serial number on the motor is OM688xxx. I have tried to look up parts for this but I havent been able to find any other plugs. Any quidance or help is appreciated.

Thanks John

 

[jballen1]

I think I have figured this out..hahah....I have the 3 pt drain system so that should be the one in the Water distribution housing ( lower front port side), 1 in the thermostat housing, and the 3pt being the Sea Pump which has 2 drains.

I sure hope I'm right.

Let me know if I am off base?

Thanks

 

[Lazy Daze]

John, that explains it better. You have the newer set-up. So, you are correct, you found all the plugs you need.

You'll simply pour the pink stuff into the 3 hoses at your t-stat housing.

Don't forget to bump the engine with the sea water pump plugs removed.