Winter Work List - Sea Ray 560

Jackie J V

Member
TECHNICAL Contributor
Feb 5, 2009
827
King City, ON
Boat Info
560DB
2 x Raymarine e125's
Walker Bay Generations 360 Centre Console w. Yahama 60HP
2 Seadoos
Engines
CAT 3406e (C15's) @ 800HP
I purchased my 560 in the spring of '09 and after a year of running and getting used to the boat, have determined that there are a few things to maintain/upgrade to add to the experience. In case anyone has thoughts, comments or interest, thought I'd post my winter work list that I just sent off to my marina manager (Mike). Some of the items on the list are there in the current form due to the great input I received from my fellow boaters here at Club Sea Ray.

Jackie J V
Winter Work List

In Process

1. Repair fish finder – Rene (Note to CSR readers - Rene is our Marinas Electronics Wizard) was to remove Digital Sender Module and send to Raymarine service centre for assessment and possible repair. Also had considered inspection and possible replacement of transducers while out of water. Given that the fishfinder is my only depthsounder, it is key that I get this fixed.

(Note to CSR readers - this has been a perpetual pain in the ... all year. The only depth sounder on my 560 is the fish finder and in my boating area, there is an awful lot of randomly placed granite that can turn a nice outing into a nice repair bill real fast! Depth sounder has been working sporadically and try as I might to identify a trend or consistency of when working and when not, I can not isolate its working as anything but variable).


2. Inverter Set-up – Rene had made a number of modifications to the fix the inverter set-up. The final adjustment that he had suggested be done over the winter was to rewire the battery configuration. I may screw up this description so humour me ( J ). I think he said that the four batteries were hooked in a serial chain (not in series) so that the draw would be strong off battery one, but then diminish to the point where there would be little benefit of the draw coming off of battery four in the series. He was suggesting a rewire to configure the set-up as two separate banks of two to improve the efficiency of the set-up and therefore the total available amp hours.

3. Sunpad Cover –At the end of the season I had requested a replacement cover for the bow sunpad, in Sunbrella matching the canvas. Stewart had supplied a quote and I’m assuming this is underway.

In discussion/New items

1. Install Stern Thruster – As per quote supplied.

2. Assess hull core in question area – Had discussed taking a core sample in questionable area identified in survey and during inspection after haul out (See area bracketed by chaulk in attached photo from Survey “Jewer Bottom Area”). Need to identify source of issue and repair as applicable.

2Jewerbottomarea.jpg


(Note to CSR readers - my original survey turned up an area of moisture in the bottom of the cored hull that nearly scared me off the purchase. After investigation and discussions with the local Sea Ray dealer and the marine surveyor, I concluded that the item was isolated and potentially even linked back to the original manufacture. Reinspection after haulout in the fall seems to support the original conclusion.)

3. Remove and sandblast Dynaplate – Had been painted over when hull last painted. Marine survey indicated that Dynaplate should be removed and replaced. I think it can just be sandblasted – however I’d appreciate your guidance on this Mike.

4. Electrolysis to running gear – The marine survey I commissioned on purchase included the following recommendation – “There is some mild electrolysis activity on the rudder and struts. It is recommended that these areas are cleaned and the underwater hardware is repainted and anodes are installed on the shafts and rudders.” Mike, I’d appreciate your direction as to what you think is necessary here.

5. Props – Replace props with spares in hold (please inspect spares first for dings, bangs or dents – I think they’re OK though) and have props cleaned and adjusted (if necessary). Replace cleaned props into hold for spares.

6. Adjustments to Swim platform – There are a couple of items under investigation. Maintenance and adjustments include:
a. Service – according to the manual there is an annual service as follows – “Two grease fittings on top of lift cylinders (pg 20 of manual) should be greased annually with a good moly based grease.” Please service.
b. Adjustment – the swim platform “droops” a little when under load. Refer to attached photo “Swim Platform Load Factor” for reference. I’ve got an enquiry in with the manufacturer GHS (Florida Bow Thruster - FBT). In a Sea Ray owners site, another owner indicated that at the instruction of the manufacturer, he had adjusted the platform to be an inch higher on the outside edge than the transom side to compensate for similar effect. I believe that this adjustment would be effected by adjusting the threaded rod under the swim platform. I am open to suggestions and will pass on any guidance received from FBT.

6bSwimplatformloadfactor.jpg


c. Modifications – The swim platform on the 560 sits extremely close to the water (I think a foolish design) and under load, drags under certain conditions (about 10 knots). Adjusting the droop will help a little. In addition, I’d like the two following modifications:
i. Remove cosmetic skirt – There is a trim edge which I can’t believe to be anything but cosmetic, on the underside of the swim platform. Most of the screws have vibrated out, so it is an easy task to remove. Please remove and retain (I’ll take home in case I want to reinstall later).
ii. Install spacer bars – Another Sea Ray 560 owner added 4” x 2” rectangular aluminium tubing (at least ¼” thick) between the lift forks and the fibreglass swim platform to raise the swim platform 4”. I think 4” x 4” would work better – but again am open to suggestions and discussion. I’d also appreciate your input on potential concerns. The other owner has indicated that it’s made a substantial difference and has held up well over the past two years since the modification was made.

7. Fibreglas repairs – There are a number of areas that need some fibreglass work/repairs.
a. Refer to attached picture “FR - Underwater Chip”. There is about a ¼” chip taken out of the hull right on the bottom near the speed transducer. Please inspect for collateral damage and repair.


7aFR-UnderwaterChip.jpg



b. Refer to attached picture “FR – Starboard Entry”. There is a chip/hole/void on the starboard where you enter the boat off the dock. Looks like a fairly easy fix.


7bFR-StarboardEntry.jpg



c. Refer to attached picture “FR – Transom Locker”. There was a crappy repair job done to the transom locker. Repair left a white patch and there are spider cracks emanating from the impact point. Please repair.


7cFR-TransomLocker.jpg



d. Refer to attached picture “FR – Port Side”. There are spider cracks along a six foot section on the side of the walk way. Please repair.

7dFR-PortSide.jpg



e. Swim platform – There is one chip where the previous owner had the dingy outboard sitting on the platform – please repair. Also it is obvious that there had been previous repairs to the swim platform due to the discoloration and spider cracks. How much would it cost to restore

8. Canvas Repairs – There are a couple of repairs/amendments I’d like to have made to the canvas as listed below:
a. Refer to attached photo “CR – Aft Canvas”. There is a gap in the canvas which allows water to penetrate the cockpit. I had a temporary solution using a piece of Velcro, however I’d like to adjust the canvas by adding a matching flap to cover the gap. Also, right at that location, the Velcro attaching the bridge canvas to the cockpit canvas has passed its useful life – please have the Velcro replaced.


8aCR-AftCanvas.jpg


b. Bridge side canvas smilies. The plastic in the large smilies on each side of the bridge are very scratched up due to being rolled up over time. I would like the plastic in just the smilie can be replaced (balance of plastic and canvas is fine). I’d also like flaps and snaps to be added so that the smilie snaps to the roof (like the centre forward bridge smilie). What are the options for replacing this plastic (e.g., EZ2CY)?
c. The zippers and seams on the centre forward bridge smilie leaks slighty, but enough that water accumulates under the seats and leads to dampness and mold. What is the best way to fix?
d. For some reason, the snaps on the sunpad do not match up to the snaps on the deck and I’m not keen on drilling new holes in the deck. Either I need vinyl extensions sewn onto the sunpad, or I’d be open to a strip of sunbrella which would act as an adapter of sorts (snapping to the sunpad and the deck). I’d appreciate a recommendation and solution.

9. Polish – After other work has been completed and just prior to launch, I’ll need a complete hull polish. Please identify options and provide recommendation and quote.

Potential Additions

  • Consider installing Flexiteek/Nuteak in cockpit and on swim platform. Mike – we talked about an installation you did on the older vessel at the end of the North Dock. I’d like input on the owner’s experience last year and get a rough understanding as to cost. Which product did you use. I had some e-mail correspondence with Nuteak and they lobbed a local rep. at me.
 
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Wow....I would just but a new 65 footer.......kidding...Good list.....Why are you adding a stern thruster? Just curious
 
The stern thruster is definitely not a "must have" but a "nice-to-have". I can take the stern sideways with the props, however sometimes I found that there was a need for precision where it would be helpful to have the stern thruster. Examples include coming into a moving raft-up in a stiff wind, backing into my slip again in a stiff cross wind or maneuvering in really tight conditions. There were a couple of times where we were jammed into a marina (tight on front and behind of a wall), where it would have been nice to have the thruster at the stern.

Paul
 
Paul

Is your depthsounder a DSM 300? If so there is a software update for both the DSM and the E-120's from Raymarine that may resolve your intermittent problems. If not.....ummmm, never mind.
 
Thanks Brian,
Yes, I do have the DSM 300 (should have pointed that out - sorry). There is a software update for the module, however I've been told that its a little more involved than a chartplotter update (maybe I've been fed a line - who knows). I'm having the module replaced and sent back to the local Raymarine distributor for updates and full bench testing.

I'm skeptical that this is the full solution though. I may simply get them to replace the transducers and rewire back to the E120's, just to be sure while the boat is out of the water.

Thanks for the response.

Paul
 
Thanks Brian,
Yes, I do have the DSM 300 (should have pointed that out - sorry). There is a software update for the module, however I've been told that its a little more involved than a chartplotter update (maybe I've been fed a line - who knows). I'm having the module replaced and sent back to the local Raymarine distributor for updates and full bench testing.

I'm skeptical that this is the full solution though. I may simply get them to replace the transducers and rewire back to the E120's, just to be sure while the boat is out of the water.

Thanks for the response.

Paul

Paul

I'm not an electronics expert, so I turn to the local Raymarine shop for all of my service needs. The problem with the DSM 300 interfacing with the E-120 is specific to that combination across the Sea Talk network. Apparently, Raymarine released software updates for both devices in September. I had it installed in October before the boat was pulled and it seemed fine under limited use. You may have additional issues with your sounder that go beyond this but I would suggest you get this done as well. I will also tell you that my service guy was only able to get this resolved through the manager of the service center in New Hampshire, none of the techs were aware of it. Good luck, losing your depthsounder underway is more than just an inconvenience.
 
Nice boat and nice list. I hope you are able to get all of that work done prior to dropping back in the water. I will be interested to see what the fix is for the swim platform...
 
Thanks Brian. I'll let my guy know about the September patch. I know he was waiting for a patch to be released in his discussions with the local distributor.

Hopefully that's an easy fix.

Paul
 
Paul, what's the matter with the core of your hull??? Did you find water in it :wow:
 
I had commissioned a complete marine survey in the Spring when I bought the boat, using a reputed and recommended marine surveyor. His overall conclusion was that the boat was in great shape - in most areas "like new condition". He did however identify a six foot section of the hull where there was higher moisture content and soundings in the area indicated that it required follow-up. The area is marked in chaulk on the picture of the hull. (As a side note, the area was marked in chaulk in April of '09, but the picture in this thread was taken on haulout in November '09 - It surprised the heck out of me that the markings were still there.)

I had extensive discussions with the surveyor on this point as the prospects scared the beejeepers out of me. He was very consistent though that he would not consider this to be an issue that should move me off my purchase. He also indicated that it could even be related to the original hull construction. He identified his thoughts at repair cost for that section (~$5-6,000) and we moved on.

It was at least encouraging that the area had not changed in the fall. Now next step it to take a core sample to see what it going on there.

Paul
 
On the transom locker door I would check the wood insert that is glassed in behind the hinge area. I know on ours water has entered the area and caused the wood to swell and crack the inside of the door along the hinge area where the screws are. A possibility? Good luck with all the other projects. Its a nice feeling come launch to know the boat is ready to go!
 
Paul,

I would second that information about the wood insert on the transom locker hatch. I am having the wood replaced and re-glassed this winter.

With respect to the DSM300, I have the same set-up but I run two "E" screens. The sounder has been quite accurate but I will have the two updates done before launch.

Good luck with the winter list. Mine was long during the previous two winters but it is much more condensed this year. Have a great 2010.
 
Thanks Skuza and Jamie. I am fine with the transom locker - no swollen wood. I have a similar (but really minor) latch under the cockpit seat where water has permeated the fibreglas and wood, requiring replacement, but that's a little autonomous piece maybe 3" x 4".

Jamie - I also have the same set-up with two E screens (E120's).

Happy New Year folks!
Paul
 
Impressive list Paul - both the Jackie J V and the marina owners should feel lucky to have you!

It sounds like you have confidence in Rene, but even so, I would ask for clarification on the battery configuration. You may even want to draw a simple drawing or schematic of his proposal and run it by the support department of the inverter manufacturer just to be sure.

For the most part, the amp hours/capacity (parallel) can be configured at your discretion, but inverters typically expect a specific voltage, which of course is altered by series-wiring.
 
Thanks Rollercoastr,

I am sure the marina is happy to have me.:grin: I was a big service customer last year and I'm sure I'm keeping them going this winter. Interestingly, we don't have many indoor storage facilities up here and they're not really geared up for winter work - unlike Michigan where I got the boat in the Spring, where indoor storage keep maintenance departments going.

In any event, I knew that I'd have some work to do when I bought the boat and took that into account - it is what it is. Last year I had a bunch of items to take care of, many of which I addressed myself, others beyond my technical scope, I had the marina take care of. Once I get the items on this list addressed, it'll be regular maintenance unless there's something major that happens...hopefully not.

Now on to the battery configuration. First the caveat...I'm no electrician and may screw this up:huh:. If there's something I characterize wrong...anyone should feel free to jump in and correct.

The added house batteries are not connected in series, they're connected in parallel in one continuous string.

The graphic below shows the difference between series and parallel.

SeriesvsParallel.png


My engine cranking and bow thruster batteries are connected in series as shown above, to give me the 24V needed to run those systems.

As I understand it, the way that the batteries were configured when installed has the inverter utilizing a maximum draw off the first battery in the chain, and then getting a diminishing draw off each subsequent battery (i.e., configured as one bank of four batteries). The graphic below described my understanding:

CurrentConfiguration.png


The bottom graphic above shows how the batteries would be configured as two separate banks of 2 to improve the effiency. I'm sure that the schematic is overly simplified and it is certainly not intended to be instructional to someone wishing to do this themselves!:smt009


Paul
 
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Thanks Paul. I'm also NOT an electrician. I'm just a boater who over a few decades, has made mistakes in maintaining and replacing a few dozen wet cells... :smt013

My own starting/house batteries are configured similarly to Rene's proposal, but my banks of 2 are isolated. Without being isolated, your diagram still looks to be a single bank of 4 batteries to me, so I would expect them to have a shorter life.

I would describe this configuration as "linear". To optimize the current draw (assuming a fully-parallel config), inverter banks are often configured in a more "circular" fashion, ie: the inverter would be connected to the + terminal of the battery at one end of the chain, and the - of the battery at the other end.

Please also note: cable length is a major consideration in inverter banks, so a circular configuration may not end up being the optimal method if it requires using excessively-long cables.
 
Paul

I installed a DSM300 on my boat last winter. Occasionally I would loose connectivity and the fishfinder would stop working. My problem turned out to be a bad connection of the power line. I re-crimped the connector and my problem went away.

Good luck
 
Thanks for the added input.

Rollercoastr - I was sure that I was missing something at the inverter end in my rough sketch (that's why I added the "don't try this at home" warning). The battery banks are supposed to be separated. Whether that means isolated and whether it involves relays or whatnot, is beyond me, but not the guy that will be doing the work. You're absolutely right that cable length is a key factor in an inverter install, however it won't be an issue here as the batteries are in the lazarette, next to the inverter and a couple of feet below the power panel.

Vince, I went through the wiring as best I could to try to isolate the fish finder issue myself. Thought at one point I had found the problem linked to what I thought was a wiring issue, but to no avail. I'll see what happens when the unit comes back and I may simply replace all the wiring running to the E120s.

Cheers,
Paul
 
Paul,
Nothing like saying goodbye to a skid load of 100's.

Jack

Jack you rip me up buddy!

I was thinking as I looked athe FG repairs and mentally was thinking 300 Plus 800 plus 200 and When I saw the port gunnel work I just thought ... Whew, I'm glad SR is going after the coring issue ... they are right?:smt100
 

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