Windless trips breaker after a few moments of use

D

dad's turn

New Member
Jan 17, 2007
48
Happy 4th everybody.

Just a quick question. Went on the hook today, first time this year. When I was pulling anchor the windless tripped the breaker. I had to crank it back up. At the dock tried it a couple times and each time after lifting about 30 ft of line the breaker would trip again. Has anyone else had this problem. My thought was the breaker was getting weak.
 
dad's turn said:
Happy 4th everybody.

Just a quick question. Went on the hook today, first time this year. When I was pulling anchor the windless tripped the breaker. I had to crank it back up. At the dock tried it a couple times and each time after lifting about 30 ft of line the breaker would trip again. Has anyone else had this problem. My thought was the breaker was getting weak.
Click to expand...

chain or line?

if line check if it happens in a same spot on the line, it may become defective
if chain or line- check if there is enough room inside rope locker after you pull back chain or rope
sometimes it build-up high under winch preventing more to come inside.
 
GMT

Two probable reasons. 1.) Failing Batteries or 2.) This is usually attributed to cable connecots at the windless. Remove the connectors, wire brush the posts and the connectors, remvove all corrosion, reconnect and apply electrical electrical anti corrosion grease. If that doesn't fix it, then clean the connections on the battery.

Manybe both are issues.
 
Guys I'm on the hook and can't get the anchor up. I've had issues with the breaker (the one in the engine compartment) tripping but that doesn't seem to be the cause this time. Where is the breaker up in the bow? Also I seem to have plenty of room in the locker. Could heat be a factor?
 
KevinReston said:
it seems to be working again. It's really frustrating that it trips so easily :smt021
Click to expand...
it trips easier when battery is low
 
Batteries & the Windlass

The windless will be the heaviest 12V draw most small boats have. The use is heavy and over longer periods than encountered on a engine starter, the cable run to the battery is longer and more heat is built up under loads.

Ad to this the possibility that the house battery is weak after a few winter seasons of layup. The first weeks of use on a battery after layup will weed out the weak sisters.

If the battery isn't within a few feet of the windlass, you have to be diligent to keep the battery terminals clean and corrosion free as well as the terminals to the windlass and the ground.

Usually this trouble is fixed by cleaning, but a new battery maybe called for was well.
 
One point that's missing here is you can't use the windlass to pull the anchor free or move the boat. You need to use the engine to move the boat such that the anchor rode isn't under tension. If it's under tension for more than a 30 seconds or so (depends on a lot of factors) the breaker is doing it's job. The drain of a windlass is considerable even under normal conditions. Try forcing it to pull the boat around and it'll definitely trip the breaker. Make sure that's not the case in your situations.
 
I appreciate the good information. Couple more questions on the topic.

I was running the generator yesterday, would that change the draw factor on the battery? Does the Windlass draw from the AC system when it's on or always DC?

It was also very hot yesterday (90's)and probably hotter because I was running the generator (which is close to the breaker) would that trip it more easily?
 
What great information. Just go back from the boat, I found 3 lugs that I could get 1/4 -1/2 of a turn on . Windless does not trip the breaker any more. Thanks all for the help.
 
I had the same problem and had to wait for the inline breaker to reset itself before she would work again. I replaced the inline breaker and hasn't happened since. My breaker was right at the battery.
 
KevinReston said:
I appreciate the good information. Couple more questions on the topic.

I was running the generator yesterday, would that change the draw factor on the battery? Does the Windlass draw from the AC system when it's on or always DC?
Click to expand...

Here's how it works, the windlass is a 12vdc item. It always operates on 12v whether the generator is running or not. Circuit breakers work on amperage. When the amperage draw exceeds the rating by a given amount for a specified time the breaker opens.
There are basically two reasons for an increase in amperage. 1. a decrease in voltage being supplied ( loss of charge, weak battery, loose or poor electrical connections) or 2. an increase in load (asking the windlass to do more work than it is designed to do).
Since it doesn't appear that the windlass is being operated any differently than you normally do, look to reason #1.
 
I had a simular problem that was due to a ground that had come loose. Once the ground was re attached it sped the winch up dramatically and solved the circuit breaker problem.

I am brand new to this site. Thank you all for your valuable input.

Johnny
 
start you motor first,thendrive over anchor to break from bottom then take in the rode
 
Hey guys, new to the site. Awesome info.

Similar problem with my windlass. I'm pretty sure my problem has to do with the old batteries (in both banks). I have to switch the toggle to the windlass up then down a few times, then it finally engages. It runs for about 10 secs and then stops.... Once I spring for new batteries, I'm hoping this issue gets resolved.
 
Having a somewhat weak battery shouldn't have an effect on the operation of the windlass because the main engine(s) should be running- or you're not using the windlass as intended. With the engine running, the alternator output should be sufficient to provide all the power the windlass requires.

The comment above about not keeping the anchor line under tension is just not correct. A windlass is DESIGNED to pull- it's a winch- not just something to reel in slack line. They're definitely not designed to break- out the anchor, nor "winch" the boat up to the anchor in heavy seas; but they're designed to handle what can be the substantial weight of the anchor/chain. In fact, the only time I have a problem with mine is if there is too little tension on the rode- it won't get grabbed by the gypsy- and just slips- unless there's a decent amount of tension.

Lesser quality windlasses just can't handle continuous operation for extended periods of time without overheating and tripping either the main breaker or the internal thermal breaker.
If you're going to be pulling up several hundred feet of rode (I do), you need a substantial windlass that can handle 5 minutes or more of continuous operation.
 
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