Windlass question - Proper operation when pulling the anchor in

Stee6043

Stee6043

Well-Known Member
Jun 1, 2015
6,778
West Michigan
Boat Info
1997 Sundancer 400
Engines
7.4L Gassers
I am hoping someone might be able to provide some insight on proper windlass operation.

I just had my first weekend out on my 340 Dancer and managed to use the windlass a couple times. When retracting the anchor I have to manually hold a “follower” mechanism on the port side of the windlass to maintain pressure on the drive wheel. Is it normal to have to manually hold this follower/pressure arm? It seems like this should be spring loaded? Perhaps there is a reason it’s not?

The other question I have is with regards to the transition from rope to chain when brining the anchor back in. I had the chain jam up pretty good when going from rope to chain yesterday. Is there something I can do to avoid this? It happened twice in a row and I was getting pretty frustrated as I was drifting along in the wind at this point. I managed to work it free both times…but just barely. That chain binds hard and with plenty of force.

Thanks in advance for any help you might be able to provide…
 
Make sure you move the boat towards where the anchor is set, never allow the windlass motor to pull the boat. Often jams happen when
you expect the windlass to pull a large boat by itself.
 
The pressure lever is supposed to be spring loaded... you should not have to hold it.

The transition from rope to chain is (was) difficult on mine also. If I slowed down at that point, and inched it along, it would make the transition.

(I recently went to an all chain rode... no more problems with the rope!)
 
You should not have to hold the finger, it should be spring loaded. Make sure it's lubed as well. If you search the forum there are threads on replacing
 
If it's the Marlin windlass, it has a poorly designed chainwheel. Works fine on the chain, but if you look close you see the ridges that contact the rope do not extend far out enough to grab the rope when it increases in diameter at the braid. A stronger spring, which they do not offer, would be a solution or extend the ridges on the gypsy to engage a larger diameter line.
 
As expected, you guys have provided some great info already. I assumed that arm should have been spring loaded but having never owned a windlass before I wanted to ask the pro's here before I jumped in trying to find the spring. As for the chain binding issue....I guess I'll just need to practice a bit more? Going all-chain sounds expensive....very expensive? I'd also be a bit concerned about not being able to cut the anchor free in an emergency. Or is that a foolish thought? Thanks again, everybody. Very helpful info.
 
KnotEasy said:
Make sure you move the boat towards where the anchor is set, never allow the windlass motor to pull the boat. Often jams happen when
you expect the windlass to pull a large boat by itself.
Click to expand...
The jamming is occurring well after the anchor has come off the bottom. As for pulling the boat with the windlass....it sure didn't seem to have any trouble? Do folks generally not pull the boat to the anchor with the windlass? It seems like creating significant slack in your anchor line and then driving toward the anchor line would be a recipe for problems with props/lines/etc.
 
I have to do the same thing with the finger on mine....I have the kit to repair...just forget every time I go down to the boat...until I go to bring the anchor up. :grin:
 
Stee6043 said:
The jamming is occurring well after the anchor has come off the bottom. As for pulling the boat with the windlass....it sure didn't seem to have any trouble? Do folks generally not pull the boat to the anchor with the windlass? It seems like creating significant slack in your anchor line and then driving toward the anchor line would be a recipe for problems with props/lines/etc.
Click to expand...

That windlass has plenty of nutbag to pull the boat to the anchor, and the tension on the chainwheel helps with the line and braid for traction. I don't use tension on he chain end
 
Stee6043 said:
Going all-chain sounds expensive....very expensive? I'd also be a bit concerned about not being able to cut the anchor free in an emergency. Or is that a foolish thought? Thanks again, everybody. Very helpful info.
Click to expand...

I bought 137' of 5/16 chain for $565 and it weighs 140#.
In an emergency you could just pay it all out and disconnect it I suppose.
 
JimG said:
I bought 137' of 5/16 chain for $565 and it weighs 140#.
In an emergency you could just pay it all out and disconnect it I suppose.
Click to expand...
That's not as pricey as I would have expected. In terms of cutting the anchor loose the jam/binding issue I had yesterday would make it impossible to release all of the chain to drop free in an emergency. I'd have to carry a cordless die grinder with me!
 
Since you have jammed the windlass a couple of times, take a good look at the pressure finger. There's a chance that the stud it rides on is now bent, meaning that it is putting even less pressure on the rode, making it more likely to have trouble later.
 
Stee6043 said:
That's not as pricey as I would have expected. In terms of cutting the anchor loose the jam/binding issue I had yesterday would make it impossible to release all of the chain to drop free in an emergency. I'd have to carry a cordless die grinder with me!
Click to expand...

I have all chain rode, well almost all chain. 250ft of chain, then 20ft of line on the back end. If there was an emergency and I choose to drop the anchor and chain rode, dump it out until it gets to the line, then cut the line.

Not that this is something I really want to do - or hope I ever have to do. But there is a way to divest yourself of a chain rode.

Also, as others have said - the spring should be holding the finger in snug. If the spring is not doing its job, I recommend pushing the finger in with a boat hook - or something other than your fingers. When I have had to push on the finger, always nervous about a stray wake rocking the boat.

Mark
 
-The rope/chain transition is just a problem spot, keeping the rode clean from mud etc around the splice will help. You just need to slow it down and bump the splice through the windlass - I always deployed the anchor from the helm and retrieved the anchor from the deck using the foot switches.

-Get the finger/spring fixed, it will never pull the rope properly without the spring loaded finger.

-Never pull the boat forward with the windlass, yes it is strong enough to pull the boat, but putting pressure on the capstan like that will eventually damage the capstain mechanizm and constantly work the deck around the windlass, you will eventually end up with a wet leaky deck around the windlass.

-Always cleat your rode after setting the anchor - for the same reason you should not let the windlass "pull" the boat.

-Always tie / chock the anchor when it is not in use (that's what that cable is for). If you ever see an anchor get loose while underway, it is not pretty!

-Be careful! The windlass is very powerful, it will break things easily (your fingers, toes, the metal spring finger etc).
 
I have the same windlass, its a Progress 1 and the pressure finger is a known issue. I replaced my pressure finger, but also decided to add 150 ft of chain between the nylon rode and the anchor. The windlass works great on the chain and I never anchor deep enough to use the 150ft of chain.
 
scoflaw said:
That windlass has plenty of nutbag to pull the boat to the anchor, and the tension on the chainwheel helps with the line and braid for traction. I don't use tension on he chain end
Click to expand...

I also use the windlass to bring the line in. Just use your head and if in stiff wind or current use the engine to assist it. I just use it in short bursts.
 
I bought 100 foot of chain this spring, and the fourth time I used it the anchor got stuck in 80 foot of water, and I lost both anchor and chain. The chain definitely worked great while it lasted!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Soak your anchor line in your wash basin with warm water and fabric softener for a few hours. Work it some by twisting and turning it especially closer to the splice. It loosens up your line and your gypsy wheel will have a better shot at catching it. Older anchor line gets hard. Next I'd try a new anchor line and rode. Cheaper than all chain and 300 pounds less on your bow. Final and no doubt best ($$$) solution is all chain if anchoring is a big part of boating for you. Another thing I try to do is dry out my anchor line after it use it even if it just means leaving the anchor access hatch open. Seen some moldy messes in there. Last I use my engines to take some of the slack off if it's blowing. I take in 10-20 feet at a time. Let thing settle. take some more in. I also tie the line off at the bow if it's blowing more than 10 knots or I'm on the windlass more than a couple hours. It will probably extend the life of your windlass. They ain't cheap and they are powerful.
 
hequej said:
I bought 100 foot of chain this spring, and the fourth time I used it the anchor got stuck in 80 foot of water, and I lost both anchor and chain. The chain definitely worked great while it lasted!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

anchorsaver.com

Or or a couple of zip ties.
 
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