windlass problem

ratherbeboating

ratherbeboating

New Member
Jun 1, 2008
35
lebanon,tn
Boat Info
320 Sundancer 2004
Engines
twin 350 mercury,s V drives
anchor motor will not operate, turn switch on and clicking sound is all I get, could it be solenoid? any help appreciated, 2004 320 dancer
 
Mine does it often, I simply tap ion it lightly on the "bubble" on the side of it, and it works fine...not sure what else it could be...
 
I don't think this is your problem, but on my 280, the windlass runs off of the 3rd battery, and NOT the two main batteries. It took me a while to find this.
 
Without more info to go on, the clicking noise you are hearing is the control box cycling. It is just a big double solenoid (one for up, one for down).

If the windlass was made by Lofrans, best source of help is to contact IMTRA (imtra.com). They are the US importer of Lofrans. Call them on the phone and they will help. I had problems last year and they really helped my diagnose what was wrong.

Henry
 
Check the breaker in the engine compartment. Last year my windlass did the same thing. It was clicking but wouldn't engage. Turns out the breaker was tripped. I reset the breaker and everything worked fine.
 
It will also do that if any of the brushes on the motor have gone bad. I would say it is not the solenoid or battery because the click you are hearing is the solenoid engaging and applying power to the motor. Like the other post said, if you tap (or can turn) the top of the motor while engaging the windless (up or down) it should start to run. The motor should be pretty easy to remove and you can have it tested and new brushes put on at any local motor shop for $100-$150.
 
This happened to me when I bought my boat 2 years ago. I took the motor to a starter/alternator repair shop. $25.00 later I was in business and have been since.
 
Is the little finger on the windlass bent and causing the windlass to jam?
 
Here's some things to check....

1. Check and tighten all connections on the solenoid unit, switches, battery, etc.

2. Does the windlass not operate in both the up and down direction at the helm? Does the same thing occur using the foot switches? Check breaker/inline fuse. Tap the solenoid unit with a soft mallet. Sometimes the coil contacts get 'stuck' or worn. Any changes?

3. If the unit still does not work, use a multi meter and verify voltage in both the up and down direction. If you have voltage in both directions, the problem lies within the windlass motor itself. Possible loose or corroded wiring. Remove motor and inspect.

4.. If it operates in one direction but not the other, reverse motor lead wires on solenoid. Does the windlass work in the opposite direction now and not the other? If so, take it one step further and reverse the leads on the foot switches or helm rocker to eliminate the switch(es) from the equation. If they are eliminated, replace solenoid.

Hope this helps.

Doug
 
lots of good suggestions.. will try the breaker in engine compartment..regarding the foot switches on the bow, they will not even make the clicking noise its like they are completely dead, no juice at all, tried to turn the hand crank with tool provided, thought maybe it was just froze up from sitting through the winter but no luck. thanks again Mike
 
ratherbeboating said:
lots of good suggestions.. will try the breaker in engine compartment..regarding the foot switches on the bow, they will not even make the clicking noise its like they are completely dead, no juice at all, tried to turn the hand crank with tool provided, thought maybe it was just froze up from sitting through the winter but no luck. thanks again Mike
Click to expand...

Sounds like the breaker to me. The first time I tried to use my windlass, I had the exact same conditions as you're describing. Clicking w/ helm controls and nothing at all from the foot switches. Because of the clicking, I never thought to check the breaker, just assumed it was receiving the correct power. I gave up for a while and was in the bilge a few days later and happened to glance at the breaker which was tripped. Flipped it on and its worked fine since then.
 
That's weird too because usually the foot switches are wired in series with the helm control. Whatever the helm does, the foot switches should replicate as well and vice versa.

Keep us posted.

Doug
 
lope4946 said:
Check the breaker in the engine compartment. Last year my windlass did the same thing. It was clicking but wouldn't engage. Turns out the breaker was tripped. I reset the breaker and everything worked fine.
Click to expand...

I recently had my windlass jam up, i was able to release the rode by loosening the clutch but now my windlass seems to be doing the same thing described here.

I'm wanting to check the breaker everyone keeps referring to but not sure where in the engine compartment to locate this on my 2005 280DA. Can someone with a 280 point me in the right direction for this breaker?

Thanks,
 
My windlass quit running. I just today removed my Loframs windlass. The motor has water intrusion and is very rusty because of a main case o-ring gap. One of the springs was broken on one brush. Tomorrow I will clean the motor rotor and stata. I will take it to a machine shop and turn it in a lathe to polish the rotor and the commutater where the brushes run. Order new spring re assemble and install back on the boat. This is a time consuming job. I would not like to pay a mechanic to do this job. My boat is a 2001 340. You might want to inspect your windless.
 
Does anyone have any opinions for a comparison from a Simpson Lawrence to a Lofrans windlass?

It seems many have the same type of issues with the Lofrans. I'm wondering if another brand/style many alleviate some problems.

Doug
 
TX280DA said:
Can someone with a 280 point me in the right direction for this breaker?

Thanks,
Click to expand...

Its a small black box about 2x2 inches. When its tripped there is an arm that extends down from the box. All you have to do is push the arm back up into the box.

The box is located in the engine room about 2 feet forward of the batteries on the port side. It is close to the emergency start solenoid. Hope that helps.
 
gnealon said:
Its a small black box about 2x2 inches. When its tripped there is an arm that extends down from the box. All you have to do is push the arm back up into the box.

The box is located in the engine room about 2 feet forward of the batteries on the port side. It is close to the emergency start solenoid. Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Looking for this but can’t seem to find it. Can someone please post a pic for reference.
 
05B8B56B-AE9F-436E-AA1F-5809A92B8CF8.jpeg
 
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