Which pads?

[Weave]

Alright guys....Drop some science on me. Tell me what you know about buffing/polishing etc.

I am planning on buying a PC 7242(?) this winter and want to be prepared for spring commisioning etc. I figure what better time to learn as much as I can while she is away for the winter months.
I see most people have had good success with the above buffer.
My question is: Which pads do I need to put a nice coat of wax on my deck? :smt100. I
I tried searching but didn't come up anything regarding a step by step to polishing the rig.
I remember the days of SRO and bunny slippers......:lol:

 

[Pirate]

Weave-

The polisher is best used for compound, polish, or glaze to clean and shine the surface. Wax is pretty easily applied by hand afterwards. As far as what pad you use, that is a matter of what product you choose, the manufacturer's suggestions, and your personal preference.

I use 3M wool pads and depending on the level of recovery that the gel coat needs, I use Collinite #920 for medium to light oxidation, 3M Finesse It II for light to almost no oxidation, and i use Collinite #885 wax to seal the finish.

 

[Weave]

I have collinite products......and don't see any oxidation on the hull yet.
Is the #885 the "fleetwax"? Or is that one of the liquid products?

Also can you guys elaborate on what works best for each application? I would like to learn the difference between wax, polish, glaze, etc. and when each should be used, and if at all.
Thanks!

 

[Pirate]

The #885 is the paste wax. It is a wax ONLY. The Fleetwax is a combination cleaner/wax.

Wax is a protectant. It has no qualities to clean or shine the gel coat in any way.

Polishes & cleaners actually clean the surface with a mild abrasive that removes a small layer of material and leaves a bright shine.

Compound is used if the surface is dull and the shine is diminished. It is simply a more aggressive 'polish' if you will.

Wet Sanding is the most aggressive method of removing heavy oxidation. Usually, each step requires that you go to the next. i.e. if you need wet sanding, you will need to follow with compounding and then polish before wax.

My boat sees wax from Hard Top to waterline 4 times annually. Every other application (6 months), I go over it with Finesse It II before waxing. There is never a point when any of the gel coat appears dull on my boat, but using the Finesse It is like cleaning a window that didn't appear dirty. Afterwards, it is apparent that it was much improved.

With that regimen, the boat stays shiny and in better than new condition. No gnats, spiders, or non-boaters can stick to the deck. Soap is usually not required to wash it down. Spray it and dry it.

 

[sbw1]

After the boat is compounded I use Flagship for the finish. It's a liquid that I apply to several square feet of surface with a clean white towell. Then I spread it out and buff it with a rotary polisher with a clean wool pad that has never been used for compounding. This does a good job getting the wax into the gel coat and leaves just a fine white haze that is easily wiped off with a clean white towell. I'm on the hard now and just looked at my boat which was waxed in early April 2007. It still has a nice thick shine to it. Wool pads can be washed in a washing machine a few times and they come out looking like new.

 

[Weave]

So essentially, provided there is no oxidation the recommendations are to polish first and then wax......Is that correct?

Also can you guys elaborate on wool vs foam....advantages/disadvantages? Are there different wools as there are different foams?

 

[Pirate]

Assuming there is no oxidation, a light polish followed by wax would be great.

There are others who will have differing opinions for sure, but this has worked well for me on many boats.

As far as the wool vs. foam, I need to defer to someone else. Foam wasn't around or prevalent when I started maintaining boats so I got used to the wool and never changed. The manufacturer, especially 3M, will have very strict recommendations regarding what type of pad, speed, and pressure for each product.

 

[sbw1]

I've been using wool pads from Napa and other car stores for years. They are durable and do a great job. You always start with a clean one and never mix wax pads with compound pads. They wash up well in a washing machine with liquid Tide no bleach. Keep rpms at 1500 and move the wheel back and forth and up and down and finish with long horizonal strokes. Don't lean on the wheel too hard although at 1500 you can bear down pretty good with out burning the gel coat. Use fine compound to get a high gloss if oxidation is light. Finish with a good liquid wax product. Apply the wax with the towel and spread it out so you don't crude up the new wool wheel. The wheel makes the job go by quickly and this part of the job goes much faster than compounding. I can wax one side of a 38 foot hull in about 45 minutes. Waxing is like painting. The real work is in the prep.

 

[Weave]

Great info guys!

Hopefully my last question.....What do you guys do to prep? Good wash before anything....Do you take off anything? etc?

 

[sbw1]

Start with a clean boat, then compound, then wax.

 

[Weave]

OK...Think I got it. Seems like most of the real work is working in the wax/polish/compound or whatever you applying.

Are most of you putting on AND removing with the wheel with the exception of liquid wax. I've got to imagine your changing pads between application and removal correct?

 

[Pirate]

Most compounds and polishes like the 3M Finesse It II are designed to go on and stay wet so you can 'work' the material for a minute or so and then they begin to dry and leave the shine. No need for any pad change or application vs. removal as it is all one step on a 2'x 2' or 4' by 4' section at a time. A grease pencil to mark your area can be very handy.

 

[sbw1]

I agree, you work in fairly large areas. It's better to put the compound on with a clean towel and then run the wheel over it just like you are waxing. Putting the compound on with a towel and spreading it out a bit makes your pad stay cleaner. As you work the compound in with up and down and back and forth motions, you bring up the shine and thin out the product to a level that is easily wiped off with a damp towell. I overlap the margins and use landmarks on the hull instead of a grease pencil. For example, I'll start at the bow and work to the first port hole, then past two holes. Onto a through hull fitting, etc., to keep track of where I start and stop.