What to do when engines are pulled

[ASH]

The "Y" pipe is loose once in a while when I pull engines....you can re torque those bolts and I would be putting drive couplers on if you have many hours of use and an extra $500 to spend on each side. Also one of the starters is nearly impossible to reach on many twins of that size. You could change it....

 

[mdolesh]

The "Y" pipe is loose once in a while when I pull engines....you can re torque those bolts and I would be putting drive couplers on if you have many hours of use and an extra $500 to spend on each side. Also one of the starters is nearly impossible to reach on many twins of that size. You could change it....

Ash - thanks! What are drive couplers and why do I need them? Engines have just shy of 600 hours and we put 50-75 per year on them (this year might be more to get our monies worth!)

 

[pyro]

I did the same with my 290 last year. Here's my long list of suggestions:
- I assume your replacing transom assemblies because of the rusted steering pin. You should consider using the stainless pin which comes with the Seacore assemblies which are a bit more expensive. But most people don't even know they exist.
- I simply cleaned bilge with simple green and then the rust stains with muriatic acid. Some bad stains I coated with paper towel soaked in acid and left there for an hour. Don't leave overnight, it will corrode nearby metals! Amazing how much it will clean up rust stains
- Make sure they don't remove the engine room hatch and cause more problems than needed. Engines come out by just disconnecting hydraulic ram and carefully lifting hatch open until it touches swim platform.
- Not sure you can do this, but it would be nice to clean up the engine mounts. I ended up taking them off entirely and getting a tap/die to clean up the rusted threads. I say this because I don't trust the shops to align engines. They say they do, I dont always believe it. And I get it, half the engine mounts can't be turned anymore due to rust, or the inner rubber starts spinning and you're screwed, and no one wants to fight with them in the engine bay. The 290 is especially difficult to get at. I also replaced the jam nuts with stainless. But beware, if you do this, you guarantee you are totally changing the mounting height and will need to be adjusted. I took a caliper to get the mount back as close as possible. So if nothing else, tell them to make sure they are all free to move before re-installing.
- The Y pipes come out with the transom assy, so shop will tell you the condition.
- Hot water heater. Mine was relatively new, but this is extremely easy to get at with engines out. I'm not sure if it can come out in one piece without taking the manifolds off. If it's original, you may want to replace.
- I epoxied the inside of the transom assembly cutout in case of any future leaks
- Crack the bolts loose of the cool fuel module 3 (CF3). Good chance you might be removing those at some time in the future and they're a bit hard to get at
- Consider replacing the trim pumps bracket to stainless. You can do it with the engines in, but obviously a bit easier
- Clean up and paint the guaranteed rusted tie-rod bar between steering arms
- To help justify the price: you at least get all new bellows

 

[stg099]

There are two "areas". The existing gel coat (in good condition) and then the problem areas which are a reddish fiberglass resin looking material. Same prep for both??

yes, same prep for both

 

[ASH]

Ash - thanks! What are drive couplers and why do I need them? Engines have just shy of 600 hours and we put 50-75 per year on them (this year might be more to get our monies worth!)

It is the "cushion" between the flywheel of the engine and the drive shaft of the bravo. It absorbs the shock so you don't have metal on metal....If they have been greased frequently and the engine alignment was good to start with you likely have another 600 hours of use (or more) before needing replaced. The only way to do it is pulling the engine.

 

[mdolesh]

I did the same with my 290 last year. Here's my long list of suggestions:
- I assume your replacing transom assemblies because of the rusted steering pin. You should consider using the stainless pin which comes with the Seacore assemblies which are a bit more expensive. But most people don't even know they exist.
- I simply cleaned bilge with simple green and then the rust stains with muriatic acid. Some bad stains I coated with paper towel soaked in acid and left there for an hour. Don't leave overnight, it will corrode nearby metals! Amazing how much it will clean up rust stains
- Make sure they don't remove the engine room hatch and cause more problems than needed. Engines come out by just disconnecting hydraulic ram and carefully lifting hatch open until it touches swim platform.
- Not sure you can do this, but it would be nice to clean up the engine mounts. I ended up taking them off entirely and getting a tap/die to clean up the rusted threads. I say this because I don't trust the shops to align engines. They say they do, I dont always believe it. And I get it, half the engine mounts can't be turned anymore due to rust, or the inner rubber starts spinning and you're screwed, and no one wants to fight with them in the engine bay. The 290 is especially difficult to get at. I also replaced the jam nuts with stainless. But beware, if you do this, you guarantee you are totally changing the mounting height and will need to be adjusted. I took a caliper to get the mount back as close as possible. So if nothing else, tell them to make sure they are all free to move before re-installing.
- The Y pipes come out with the transom assy, so shop will tell you the condition.
- Hot water heater. Mine was relatively new, but this is extremely easy to get at with engines out. I'm not sure if it can come out in one piece without taking the manifolds off. If it's original, you may want to replace.
- I epoxied the inside of the transom assembly cutout in case of any future leaks
- Crack the bolts loose of the cool fuel module 3 (CF3). Good chance you might be removing those at some time in the future and they're a bit hard to get at
- Consider replacing the trim pumps bracket to stainless. You can do it with the engines in, but obviously a bit easier
- Clean up and paint the guaranteed rusted tie-rod bar between steering arms
- To help justify the price: you at least get all new bellows

View attachment 102965

Great suggestions! Thank you! New bellows...lol..had those replaced last year =(

A few follow up questions:

What sort of epoxy? Why doesn't searay do this to begin with? Does it need to breathe or something?

Do you have a recommendation for a hot water heater?

Thanks again for all the input!

 

[mdolesh]

yes, same prep for both

Perfect thank you!

 

[pyro]

I just used generic marine epoxy thickened with cabosil powder. The only issue is you could potentially build up the area too much so that transom assembly doesn't fit back in, so you have to sand it back down. Your shop will probably be annoyed. It looked like SeaRay either painted the opening. In my case it was flaking off and you could see the plywood layers. I wouldn't consider this critical, but if you're ocd like me, then it certainly won't hurt!

I think the original heater is Attwood but those were getting hard to find. I think this is a rough equivalent: KUUMA 6 Gallon Front/Rear Mount Water Heater with Heat Exchanger, 120V | West Marine

I think it can be replaced by removing the batteries, so it's also not critical. But if you think it's near the end of its life you might want to swap it.

 

[DWABoat]

Additional engine room lighting?

 

[mdolesh]

I just used generic marine epoxy thickened with cabosil powder. The only issue is you could potentially build up the area too much so that transom assembly doesn't fit back in, so you have to sand it back down. Your shop will probably be annoyed. It looked like SeaRay either painted the opening. In my case it was flaking off and you could see the plywood layers. I wouldn't consider this critical, but if you're ocd like me, then it certainly won't hurt!

I think the original heater is Attwood but those were getting hard to find. I think this is a rough equivalent: KUUMA 6 Gallon Front/Rear Mount Water Heater with Heat Exchanger, 120V | West Marine

I think it can be replaced by removing the batteries, so it's also not critical. But if you think it's near the end of its life you might want to swap it.

Thanks pyro. I saw that one...not the best reviews. Any other options?

 

[Creekwood]

Maybe do the duck valves on the waste system? Cheap and easy to do in an empty bilge.
Generator impeller?

 

[Havana Shamrock]

New bilge pumps and hoses if they are hard to get to while the engines are in.

 

[mdolesh]

Maybe do the duck valves on the waste system? Cheap and easy to do in an empty bilge.
Generator impeller?

Duckbills in on my list! Thank you

 

[Joint Custody]

Additional engine room lighting?

This and if your wanting transom lights good time to instal and run wires.
All other post have covered everything I would do.

 

[mdolesh]

This and if your wanting transom lights good time to instal and run wires.
All other post have covered everything I would do.

Thanks! That was on my list as well. This is quickly becoming an expensive job =)

 

[Joint Custody]

Thanks! That was on my list as well. This is quickly becoming an expensive job =)

I did this to my 330 when I had the engines out along with pretty much everything all have listed.
Put a budget to it and then a hit list of what you really want to get done. It is payment ahead while they are out.

 

[spikedaddy99]

I didn't see anyone answer the CF3 question, so here it is. Cool Fuel 3 modules were known to have problems. I've never had them, but there is a bunch of info on here so see if it applies to you.

 

[Riptide III]

At least run the wires for the transom lights. Even if you don’t install yet, you can do a more professional job of running them. Next owner may appreciate.

 

[mdolesh]

I didn't see anyone answer the CF3 question, so here it is. Cool Fuel 3 modules were known to have problems. I've never had them, but there is a bunch of info on here so see if it applies to you.

Thanks!

 

[Havana Shamrock]

The problem with cool fuel modules where the paint inside was peeling off and clogging the fuel lines. I thought it was gen2 not gen3 ? Maybe wrong.