What is the correct way to wire this?

[Shaps]

A previous owner of my boat had a silly stereo system installed. One if the things I don't like is how the installer ran multiple connections to the positive terminal of one of my batteries.

Would something like this work?

Amazon.com

Thanks!
Shaps

 

[mnm99]

Well first off there should be a fuse close to the battery. Something like that should make it a little neater. Why are there 5 hot leads?

 

[dtfeld]

Looks like 6 individual leads? What are they powering, and how far away will be critical. What wire size is it currently? Also, do you really want them direct connected to the batteries, or would it be more beneficial to power from the load side of the main solenoid (to avoid constant drain on batteries)?

Just to clean it up, you could run 1 wire to a buss bar and attach the individual components there. You’ll need a fuse on the main lead as well as the individual branches. Mobile stereo installers make power distribution block just for these types of installs.

Something like this…

 

[hughespat57]

As @dtfeld is points out you need a fuse block with a fuse for each of the six wires. The fuse is sized for the ampacity of the wire gauge.

Remember first rule is fuse need to be near the power source. Fuses protect the wires from short or overload to prevent fires.

The amps may also have fuses but that’s to protect the amps.

The fuse block should be as close to the battery disconnect as possible. Any cable between the disconnect and the block should be the same size as the battery cable.

How many amps do you have?

 

[Shaps]

Looks like 6 individual leads? What are they powering, and how far away will be critical. What wire size is it currently? Also, do you really want them direct connected to the batteries, or would it be more beneficial to power from the load side of the main solenoid (to avoid constant drain on batteries)?

Just to clean it up, you could run 1 wire to a buss bar and attach the individual components there. You’ll need a fuse on the main lead as well as the individual branches. Mobile stereo installers make power distribution block just for these types of installs.

Something like this…

Thank you.
I'll have to check the gauge size of the amp feeds.
I don't mind where it is vs the load sidenof the main solenoid.

As @dtfeld is points out you need a fuse block with a fuse for each of the six wires. The fuse is sized for the ampacity of the wire gauge.

Remember first rule is fuse need to be near the power source. Fuses protect the wires from short or overload to prevent fires.

The amps may also have fuses but that’s to protect the amps.

The fuse block should be as close to the battery disconnect as possible. Any cable between the disconnect and the block should be the same size as the battery cable.

How many amps do you have?

12 amplifiers.
These feed some of the smaller amps.
The larger amps have their own dedicated 3 battery bank as best I can tell.

 

[hughespat57]

12 ? OMG

 

[Shaps]

12... I said... it is silly

 

[Wylie_Tunes]

Thank you.
I'll have to check the gauge size of the amp feeds.
I don't mind where it is vs the load sidenof the main solenoid.

12 amplifiers.
These feed some of the smaller amps.
The larger amps have their own dedicated 3 battery bank as best I can tell.

This is so wrong and needs to be addresses first! Audio in different batteries is a no no.

A basic fuse box is also likely a no-go, if those batteries are in the engine bay as this would be a fire hazard.

The best fix would a proper trunk/branch cable setup with a large gauge cable run to the amp area then a distribution network to step down to a smaller gauge cabling with a short run to each amp. All with proper circuit protection along the way.

 

[Skybolt]

@Shaps as @Wylie_Tunes mentioned, you need to feed the stereo and all amps from the same battery bank. Also take a single 0 ga. feed to a distribution terminal strip then to individual breakers (100 amps?). I am surprised that you haven't experienced any ground loops using different battery banks. But make sure all of your amps are being supplied by the same battery bank.

BTW, I am glad I am not your boat neighbor, 12 amps? Dam. You must cruise 30 knots before you even start the engines.

The breakers should be like these: https://www.amazon.com/RED-WOLF-Waterproof-Trolling-Electronic/dp/B08ZSDYSBJ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3GLS2FGL0DA5S&keywords=100+amp+breaker&qid=1701482423&sprefix=100+amp+breaker,aps,218&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

I would use something like this to distribute the power: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B12HJWT...industrial&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

<SNIP>

The breakers should be like these: https://www.amazon.com/RED-WOLF-Waterproof-Trolling-Electronic/dp/B08ZSDYSBJ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3GLS2FGL0DA5S&keywords=100+amp+breaker&qid=1701482423&sprefix=100+amp+breaker,aps,218&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

I would use something like this to distribute the power: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B12HJWT...industrial&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw

I used similar products to Skybolts suggestion above.

1996 450DA - I found the factory wired power supply for the sound system(s) AND the electronics to be inadequate for the amperage required by todays units.

When cranking the CAT 3126 engines, the MFD units would ALWAYS reset/reboot. Same for the stereo amplifier, and it would also drop out when using the windlass.

The solution was to run heavy gauge battery wire (I don't recall the gauge) from the battery bank to TWO separate breakers (as shown above), one for the electronics, the other for the sound system, amplifiers and wireless router.

I ran the heavy gauge wire from the breaker to the helm as well

The two systems are then tied into two separate battery banks.

The breakers are mounted adjacent to the batteries on the en the engine room fwd bulkhead and clearly labeled.

Will look for a photo later.

I believe this modification is valuable for both safety and to extend the life of these electronic components from voltage swings during the heavy amperage demands during startup and the resulting swing when the alternators kick in.

BEST !

rws

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

I would also add that during that period of time, while I was doing those upgrades, buying ANCOR wire by the roll and all those long wire runs to electronics, amps, speakers, thruster(s) remote, pyrometers, boost gauges and who knows what I felt that I was adding a measurable amount of weight to the vessel, but then, its all about comfort, convenience, safety and RELIABILITY, so to quote Admiral David Farragut:

"Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead"


BEST !

RWS

P.S. SHAPS: 12 AMPS, you got me beat on the added weight Sir !

 

[ocgrant]

Dave,

Without re-wiring everything as Willy stated I would take a 2 ought cable from the battery to a 300 amp breaker within 18 inches of the battery. Then I would take two 1 ought cables from the breaker out to two of these 3 gang AGU distribution/fuse box and connect all the amps to that. That's going to give your plenty of protection and the ability to clean up the install there for quick trouble shooting if needed.

 

[ttmott]

Sounds very complicated. If you aren't getting the audio value from that system then I'd consider simplifying.
Also you probably need to get the system on the battery disconnect solenoid. I think your boat has the same main disconnect enclosure as mine. There should be an unused dual pole circuit breaker position in the box where a large amp circuit breaker can be installed then route an appropriate gauge wire to a suitable fuse block with a fuse for each amplifier and the head somewhere closer to the audio equipment. Also have a dedicated B neg terminal strip for the audio system and the main wire to that connects to the boat's main grounding buss. As stated it's important that the power and ground for each audio component sources from the same location. A sketch -

 

[ttmott]

The "gangplank" circuit breaker position is still open here; as you can see I used the "Swim Platform" for another purpose.

 

[Skybolt]

Dave,

Without re-wiring everything as Willy stated I would take a 2 ought cable from the battery to a 300 amp breaker within 18 inches of the battery. Then I would take two 1 ought cables from the breaker out to two of these 3 gang AGU distribution/fuse box and connect all the amps to that. That's going to give your plenty of protection and the ability to clean up the install there for quick trouble shooting if needed.

View attachment 154958
View attachment 154959

Grant the issue is there are actually 12 amps and those 6 are on a different battery bank. So the stereo and amps are on two different battery banks. So instead of 6 power feeds there needs to be 12.

 

[ZZ13]

This is so wrong and needs to be addresses first! Audio in different batteries is a no no.

Could you explain why not to do this.

 

[ttmott]

Could you explain why not to do this.

Noise from ground loop current.

 

[dtfeld]

12... I said... it is silly

Turn it up! I think I can hear you coming from here!

 

[Shaps]

Wow. Thank you everyone!!
I should definitely do a better job explaining what I think I have. And I want to cleanup the installation.
Those 6 leads on the positive terminal each run to a circuit breaker like @Skybolt and @ocgrant highlighted. They are within 2 to 3 feet of the battery. @Dxdave , there is a cover, just removed it for the photo.
The subwoofer amps are driven off the separate battery bank. Each discrete amp is grounded to its negative from its respective battery. Meaning the sub amps are grounded to their banks negative while the amps connected in the photo you see are attached to the ground strip in the engine room.
Last year, when the head unit was replaced along with the low voltage wiring on the audio side of the amps was replaced there was some intermittent ground loop noise. that actually was found to becoming from the overhead light dimmer.
Or at least changing out that dimmer reduced the noise dramatically.

So...
Let's start with the wiring currently in the engine room. Tom,@ttmott , I like the idea of moving to a breaker in that disconnect enclosure. And then from there to maybe a couple of those fused distribution boxes like Grant and Skybolt mentioned.

Since I'm currently not experiencing ground loop noise, while I recognize not correctly done as @Wylie_Tunes and so many have said, does this at least make sense? I'm reluctant to move all the amps to the battery bank that supports the subwoofer amps fearing I may introduce an issue as the head unit is still on the original sea ray provided circuit/ breaker.

 

[Skybolt]

@Shaps utilizing the disconnect panel as @ttmott Tom mentioned is a great idea I was unaware of a vacant breaker in that panel.

I get relocating and wiring the amps can be a daunting task. As long as all of the grounds are connected together at the batteries the head unit being on separate batteries ins't an issue.

You may want to add ground loop isolator's to elevate any GL noise. I use Boss Audio System Ground Loop Isolator and have had great success with them.