What is the correct way to start my genset

oarwhat

New Member
Feb 17, 2015
25
buffalo
Boat Info
42/5 Sealine
Engines
Volvo 480 HP
What's the proper way to start my genset. 1998 400 sundancer with a Westerbeke genset Thanks Randy
 
Last wkd my neighbor with a 400DA stopped to tell me that his 7BCG ingested water because he had cranked it for too long. He didn't know the tricks to make it start easily, so I'll re-post them for other gassser owners:


The remote start buttons on the panel don't prime the carb. I use a work-around of performing all cold-starts of the genny from the unit itself. It can be a hassle, but it also keeps me in the good habit of regularly inspecting the ER.


My method:

1. Blowers
2. Tap the remote switch to the start position and release.
3. Open hatch and climb in
4. Watch the choke as you press and hold the Run toggle. If it doesn't manage a full throw on it's own, help it and make a note to lube before the next start. The choke solenoid is a total wimp, but the good news that it's a simple fix - you just have to add lubrication of the choke linkage to your maintenance routine.
5. Listen for the pitch of the fuel pump to change, presumably indicating a full bowl / pressure
6. While holding Run, press start until engine starts.
7. Release Run when the engine is ready to open the choke. MAKE SURE IT OPENS! Help it if it doesn't.
8. Let it warm up, and then give the genny a load - the water heater is a good start.

Mine will start remotely easily for about 48 hours after it's been run.

The procedure then is to activate blowers for several minutes, then press the remote switch on the panel to the full position and release. The light will begin to blink slowly. (this is the priming function that doesn't work, but isn't needed for warm/recent starts) When the lamp flashes rapidly, depress the button all the way again to engage the starter until the genny fires.
 
To answer the original question...I remember reading this earlier this year and it's the procedure that I used when I had my 2008 280DA. Read post #3 from Alex F....

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/71811-Generator-microwave-question?p=818205#post818205

Starting Procedure:
1. Start the genset with no load.
2. Let it warm up for couple of minutes.
3. Apply the load gradually.

Shutting down procedure:
1. Turn off the load (all of it).
2. Allow genset to cool off (run with no load) for few minutes.
3. Shut off genny.

Follow these steps and the life and operation of your equipment will be prolonged.
 
The diesel method is the same as warm-start on the gasser (this is for 400DA's), but sans blower. The priming function that doesn't work for the gasser should be the pre-heat for diesel.
 
It is a lot easier on the equipment (i.e. starter motor, ring gear etc.) to use the pre-heat (glow plugs). From the main panel, press the start switch and watch the light in the switch flash for about 15-18 seconds, then start the motor. Fromt the remote start panel in the bilge, hold t he preheat switch down for 15 -18 seconds, then press the start switch while continuing to hold the preheat switch. Hold preheat until the motor cranks and smooths out....about 5 sec after it starts. Let the motor warm up before applying a load or you will have to go thru the start procedure again.
 
My '97 400DA has the same Westerbeke as yours, and it really likes to have a load on it fairly quickly. I used to let it warm up for 5-10minutes and it always seemed to struggle through those few minutes. But recently I started loading it up with the A/C units within 30sec of startup and it seems to run much smoother. Maybe that's just mine though; some things on my boat seem to have a mind of their own.
 
Andrew,


Stuttering before you put a load on the generator is usually a sign of carbon fouled injectors which causes the injectors to spit fuel instead of atomizing it. The fix is easy......remove the injectors and send them to a diesel specialty shop and have them "pop tested". That is a process where the injector is put on a test stand and a test fluid is pumped thru it to evaluate the pattern. The fluid is a solvent and usually cleans up any problem with the injector, but occasionally, one needs to be replaced or rebuilt. I had mine done 2 years ago and the cost was $75, but all mine were clean and needed nothing but clean & test.

This can wait till your season is over, and you should get the mechanic who removes the injectors to adjust the valves and re-torque the head while he is on the boat......takes about 1 hour.
 
It appears you had your question answered starting, so I will throw this in.

I was reading the Cummins manual recently regarding run times. We don't need them for AC much in so cal, so I would run mine about 30 to 40 minutes, at least monthly. I deal with fire systems, and 30 mins is the required run time for the large industrial diesel fire pump systems shoreside.

The Cummins manual said 60 mins at least monthly for a marine app, so I will switch my protocol. Others probably knew this, but it was news to me.

Cheers.
 

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