What is Quicksilver High Performance Gear Lube viscosity?

Loneranger

Loneranger

Well-Known Member
May 2, 2008
1,068
Knoxville TN
Boat Info
2000 SeaRay Sundancer 270
Engines
7.4l Mercruiser w/ Bravo III
What is the service rating and viscosity rating of Quicksilver High Performance Gear Lube? My cobalt volvo drive runs API GL5 SAE 75/90 weight which is a lot cheaper and easier to find that brand specific Volvo Penta Duraplus. Is the quicksilver also 75W90? I assume it would be GL5.

While I am on this subject, why in the world recommend an engine oil with 25W40 viscosity? So I am forced to buy mercury stuff. It is a hard to find viscosity. I will be using 20W40 or straight 40 weight. The volvo literature with my cobalt lists the fancy brandname Duraplus stuff but also gives all the specs of the oil so I can get any oil that I can find that meets those specs. Ok enough of my irritation with brand names.

John
 
I will likely use 75W90 GL5 grade for the stern drive. It seems amazing that viscosity and service grade information is so difficult to come by.

John
 
While I can't answer your specific question - I wanted to pass along that I found the merc outdrive oil in Walmart of all places. It was 3 bucks cheaper than Boaters World so I bought everything on the shelf. You may want to check it out so you don't need to find a replacement gear oil :)
Mark
 
First, Mercruiser doesn't put it's content on most things which is very frustrating, but I can guess why

But here's another option... I went to a Mercuriser dealer (MarineMax, Tracker, etc), and bought the 2.5 gallon container of High Performance Gear Lube for $100. (which is $10 a quart - much cheaper than $18 in store). You may have to make the parts guy look it up in his book and order it. It's much cheaper than getting it by the quart. The 2.5 gallon jug does need a special sized pump (for another $18), or you can transfer it however you want.

Once you do that, the same dealers have offered to refill it from their 55 gallon drum for a reduced rate - I think it was $0.33 an ounce (or about $5 a quart). I talked to a number of places that do that and you might have some luck. Also, you might see if they'd be willing to fill your own container from their drum.
 
If this is truely only a GL-5 rated oil and is in the viscosity range of 75-90w or 85-90w, you can go to any auto supply store and buy 2.5 gallon jugs for like $20.00 +-
Thats all I ever used in my old OMC Stringer drive for seven years, never a lube problem. Now if you're under warrenty, I'd only use "their oil" as they will use non Merc oil as an escape if you had any repairs related to bearing failure. I'm sure Mercruiser has its oil refinery located right next to its foundry and spark plug wire factory etc. Obviously somebody else makes the stuff to their spec and labels it for them so they can charge three times what its worth.
 
I will never begin to understand why someone will pay premium money for a premium boat like a Sea Ray or a Cobalt and then try to save a few bucks on the lifeblood of the engine and drive systems. That being said, I will try to answer your questions separately.

Drive lube (not oil). Standard MerCruiser geal lube is 90W. You have the same drive systems as I do in your S/R; Bravo III. These units generate a lot of heat and require the premium grear lube. I am not a chemist, but there is something in the premium gear lube that helps protect it from thermal breakdown. I will caution you that if you try to save a few bucks by downgrading on this you will pay the price down the road and Merc will not honor any warranty that uses sub-standard lube.

Engine Oil: MerCruiser 25/40 is a true multi-viscosity oil. It combines both weights and does not use additives to achieve the multi-viscosity. If you are in a pinch, use 30W, but not 40W, but save yourself a lot of headaches and trouble and spring for the Merc oil.
 
H2OME said:
I will never begin to understand why someone will pay premium money for a premium boat like a Sea Ray or a Cobalt and then try to save a few bucks on the lifeblood of the engine and drive systems. That being said, I will try to answer your questions separately.

Drive lube (not oil). Standard MerCruiser geal lube is 90W. You have the same drive systems as I do in your S/R; Bravo III. These units generate a lot of heat and require the premium grear lube. I am not a chemist, but there is something in the premium gear lube that helps protect it from thermal breakdown. I will caution you that if you try to save a few bucks by downgrading on this you will pay the price down the road and Merc will not honor any warranty that uses sub-standard lube.

Engine Oil: MerCruiser 25/40 is a true multi-viscosity oil. It combines both weights and does not use additives to achieve the multi-viscosity. If you are in a pinch, use 30W, but not 40W, but save yourself a lot of headaches and trouble and spring for the Merc oil.
Click to expand...

I won't pay extra for something generic rebranded "marine or Mercruiser". There are bona fide reasons to use marine starters, alternators, etc. but gear lube is just that GEAR LUBE. As I said, if you are under warrenty, it would be foolish to use anything other than what is specified. I have numerous pieces of machinery that use gear lube, and some of these machines make a pair of outdrives look like chump change. One is a ten foot brush mower that takes a tremendous amount of stress and generates ALOT of heat grinding up wood the size of your arm all day with no oil cooler. I use the recommended lubes in all of them and all specify API GL1 90W or API G5 80-90W or 85-140W. These can all be had at NAPA in a number of name brands. My dealers also purchase their bulk oils from Drydene and Quaker State, these are what they put back in after a lube change.
I'm not trying to start an argument here, just stating some facts. I'll reiterate what I've said several times, if you are under warrenty and it specifies Merc lube, USE MERC LUBE! its cheaper than a denied warrenty claim. If you're out of warrenty, then other brands are available. This isn't skimping its saving money.
 
Great idea about buying in in bulk direct from the dealer. I have bought fiberglass and resin from a local fiberglass guy in a similar manner and it was much cheaper.

The boat is a 2000 model, so no warranty left. I agree there is no point in paying for a brand name when the generic is just as good of a quality. I figure the American Petroleum Institute and the SAE know more about how to grade oils and lubes than I do, so if an oil meets the specifications it should work just fine. By not paying for unnecessary branding on my oil/lube, I can then pay more for the unnecessary branding of my beer despite paying for a boat like a cobalt or sea ray.

What I find frustrating is that Mercruiser is so secretive about the specifications of their recommended oil/lubes. Whereas Volvo clearly lists the specifications of the required oils and lubes for their engines and outdrives. I realize that I can get API GL5 SAE 75/90 of good quality that is significantly less expensive than mercruiser brand but I was not sure of the mercruiser specifications.
By the way the cobalt has run generic API GL5 SAE 75/90 lube in the sterndrive for over 13 years without any problems and close to 1000 hours.

Thanks for the information.

John
 
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Not only do I own boats, but I have motorcycles and have had planes. They all have the same issue which is that everyone jacks up the price on their special filters, oils, etc. You really need to know the engineering behind the difference before you change. Unfortunately, I am not an expert,

BUT... often the difference in these products is the detergents and additives that they use. If anyone has owned a truck or jeep with a limited slip differential, you know you can't just use generic 75/90W gear oil, rather, you have to use specialized gear oil (or add your own additives). Motorcycles need special engine oil to handle the clutch. Other applications need special anti-foaming agents. As mentioned above, multi-weight oils are not created equally across brands. etc. etc. etc.

Until I can find the technical specifications for something like oil, filters, etc, I won't change unless the risks are low.
 
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