What could you tell me about some 80's searays?

[ProfitOfDoom]

Im new to this forum and never owned a sea ray. My first and only boat was a 1972 Penn Yan 20.5' explorer,that was a tunnel drive,so I have no experience with I/O. I have a family of 4 "me the wife and 2 kids,there 6 and 8". Im looking to do some average boating,lounge around,pull a tube around,some perching,and just some cruising up and down the river and lake.
I ask about the 80's because every boat I seen for in my price range was in the 80's so thats what it will have to be,My price range is close to 7k,but for sure not over 10k.
I like the looks of the weekender or the sundancer,im pretty sure thats what im after and seen both for sale around me in my price range,but im just looking for some info on what to look for or what to run away from?
the years I was looking at were a 87 and a 88 both 26' with single engine. Are these good solid boats? Is there anything I should pay attention to in particular if I go to look at one in this age range,like anything prone to rotting or going bad?
Is a weekender/sundancer a good all around boat for what I mentioned,easy to maintain,get parts for,fairly easy on the wallet for gas?
Whats the main difference between a sundancer and weekender,Looks like to me the weekender has more seating on deck,where the sundancer has more open walking area,maybe better for fishing?
Well im looking to do my homework before I buy a boat this time around,Its just scary I read so much and everyone has a different opinion and you dont know what to believe,some people say some early 80's searays were good,,then closer to the 90's there crap,and vice versa.
Im here in cleveland and its the dead of winter,so chances are I wont be buying anything for atleast 2-3 months,So any info/advice would help out alot,Thanks

 

[Sundancer]

Scott has given some pretty solid advice. We had a 1987 250 DA with a 454 and it was an AWESOME boat. I still regret selling it, but the 89 300 DA is even better! The only other suggestion I would make is that the 268's with a 454 and the Alpha drive were a bit of a mismatch. The 268 is a bit heavier than our 250 DA and when you firewall the throttle in the 268 it takes it's toll on the outdrive. Some lasted forever without the owners knowing it was a problem and other replaced gears in the Alpha time after time. I'm an 80's Sea Ray kind of guy and I love them! Just get the boat and engine surveyed properly!!

 

[ProfitOfDoom]

Thanks for the advice,makes me feel better. I really like the looks and the high sides of the boat. How would you check for rot on the transom and stringers,are there any tips or tricks? Also what would a blister look like on a hull "im assuming this would be on the outsdide?" would it look just a bubble? If there is a blister is the boat ready for the scrap yard,,or could you just like pop the bubble grind it out and marine tex it or something?
Also another person said I would have no problem handling this boat out on the lake,or docking it by myself,This true? Also someone said these boats ride real front heavy due to all the cabin stuff up front,any truth to this?
And I heard to stay away from certain outdrive's,I think omc's were mentioned,cobras and a couple of others,said they were basically junk and not reliable and spend more time fixing them then using them,what are ones to look for?
And on to the fun stuff,lets say the boat and engine is sound and good working order,and I want to spend some money on cosmetics Are there any sites that offer any updated replacement stuff like new dash board pannel with some nicer guages,maybe some different seats,doors etc. for my make and model of boat?

 

[Sundancer]

The transom rot can be fickle to find. Basically start by tapping up high with your fist. It should sound solid. I can't even explain the sound. When you find a bad spot, it will sound muffled and different. I'd start thumping up high where there is probably no water and then moves towards suspected troubled spots near any of the screws that hold the platform on, cutouts for the motor or garboard or any other place something is cut or drilled into the transom. Again, the marine surveyor will know what to look for here.

I would guess by now the blisters would have been dealt with unless the bottom had been redone, but yes it's just a blister and can be sanded and refinished.

These boats are solid and handle rough weather very well. They can usually handle more than the crew and some captains. If you look at my avatar for my 89 300 DA it actually sits in the water with a little squat at the rear end. It rides perfectly and is probably too light in the front. I didn't notice ANY problems like that with either of my 80's boats. OMC (Cobra) made a fairly good outdrive, but they are out of business and parts are becoming scarce.

As far as cosmetic stuff, you can find a lot of folks that will help spend your money there! That's not a problem! You can cut and replace your own dash or go with one of the suppliers on this website. It's only money! I'd try to find a boat that needs very little cosmetic work, they are out there and it will cost less to pay for a nicer one than it will to have someone else recover a seat for example. I recovered the drivers seat on our 250 DA about 6 years ago and it was close to $800 or so. The rest of the boat is primarily wood inside, so you can do all sorts of things.

 

[dpmulvey]

Pay a few hundred dollars and find a surveyor who uses thermal imaging.

This fellow is in NY:

http://www.marinesurveyorny.com/blog

He may know who to contact in your area.

 

[ProfitOfDoom]

That sounds good and more scientific rather then knocking on it,with thermal they will be able to detect any soft spots or rot? To all those who have had boats surveyed,what was about the average cost for a 26'?
Has anyone had a boat surveyed and then discovered the boat to have rot or problems later on down the road after they were told it was good? I only ask because it reminds me of when we bought our house,we hired a inspector and paid him about $400. He walked through and pointed out little things like,he would want more dirt built up around the foundation so water will run,a few windows need replaced,and other things like that. When we asked about the floor you can tell there was a slant,he went on and explained that these house were built as cottages in the 60's and parts of the foundation settled deeper then others,that it was normal for the houses in my area,and wouldnt get any worse and not to worry about it.
Needless to say not knowing any better and us liking the house and neighborhood we signed papers and bought the house. A couple months down the road we moved the washer and dryer left behind to do some painting and discovered the problem,,the water must have been leaking for Years rotting out the floor and main beam under the house. We called lawyers and everyone said were kinda screwed as it states in the contract by him that he can only be responsible for repairs that he didnt mention up to what he was paid,which was $400.
So we were stuck with a broke down house even after we have taken the extra steps to have it checked out,I just dont want to spend the extra money and be stuck with a broke down boat,So is there any guarentees with these surverors?

 

[Sundancer]

I only mention the thumping of the transom as a way to determine if you want to HIRE a surveyor to do a thorough inspection. If you can tell there is something wrong, why bother! It will save some bucks! The surveyor can do some tests that will read the moisture in the hull after it's been out of the water for a while.

 

[dpmulvey]

In short, no. The onus is on you to be present when the inspection is being done, and hire a surveyor who comes highly recommended. He may not be the cheapest.

It's been a while, but you can probably expect to pay around $500 for a survey, plus or minus.

Sage wisdom.

In that your decision is out a few months, you may want to start gathering information on what to look for, or what others have discovered after the survey that gives them 20/20 hindsite.

I'll start.

• Coherent and complete maintenance records. My engines were brand new. No records, however the alignment was off by 9/1000" 5/1000" is acceptable in a 330 V drive. This placed undue stress on the shafts and cutlass bearings. Fixed.
• Check the last time the generator was serviced. They eat plugs for lunch. Fixed
• How is the condition of or is there shore power connections. You will want it should you venture to a local marina for an overnight.
• I am assuming the boat is an I/O. When was the last time the drive was pulled the the gimble bearing and all the boots were replaced.
• Get oil samples.

etc......

 

[BonBini]

I think the 230 I had would have been a perfect starter boat for you. In 89 Sea Ray incorporated the swim platform with the hull. My 230 was basically a 215 with a swim platform. With the 5.7 she was fast with tons of pulling power. Easy to trailer and launch, didn't need a real big ramp. Your kids are small for now and your fist boat is never your last.

Some friends we boat with have a 87 250 W/5.7. A 25' boat with a swim platform. Much larger than a 89 230. Jeff pulls his wife skiing with it allot with out much trouble.

My current 268 is sweet for the wife and I. I believe I could pull a tube ok, but a skier might end up crashing my out drive.

Another great thing about these vintage rays is that there at there bottom end price wise. Find a good deal, and when you move to a bigger boat, you should get out what you payed for it(not what you've got into it but you're initial cost.) ...Ron

 

[ProfitOfDoom]

I found a guy who does surveying right near me,and I called him up and he seemed very nice and knew his buisness,and did everything from moisture tests,engine oil tests,and thermal imaging,He said its $15.00 a foot and he will travel to the boat or bring it to him,I'll be paying him a visit before I buy.
Is there any sites or online price guides so i can look up boats values as I keep looking?
I asked the guy about mid 80's searays "weekenders/sundancers" he said they were good boats,and most of them now will have some type of rot in the transom where stuff was drilled through,like swim decks,trim tabs stuff like that,and front floor boards from windows and hatches leaking over time.
BonBoni mentioned about searay made the swim deck part of the hull in 89,would these be less prone to rotting over time?

 

[dpmulvey]

sfergson brings up a good point. There is a lot of hype marketing in the boating industry and it seems to get worse as time goes on.

The Regal 360 grew to the 400 by measuring the same hull differently. The length at the water line (LWL) is really the only true measure of useable space you have in a boat and used to be the way all boats were measured. There is an ISO standard being debated to standardize measurement. The jury is still out on that one. Do not include built in swim platforms if you are measuring LWL.