What all to replace with drive off?

[OldToys]

I've had the 1995 220 BR w/ 350 Mag for less than a season. Slowly finding and correcting all the issues.

Last time out on the water I ended up with a torn shift cable bellows, so it looks like the drive will need to come off. (I've read it is possible to do the shift bellows with the drive on, but the drive bellows is pretty cracked as well, so I want to replace it before it allows water in and does additional damage.) I have the exhaust tube so not really worried about it.

Since I will have the drive off I might as well go ahead and do "everything", but I don't know what that is. I am thinking I would need:

Drive bellows
Shift bellows
Cooling water line
Gear lube reservoir line
Gimbal bearing
Water pump kit
Engine alignment tool

Is there anything else that I should go ahead and do while it is torn down? Gear/clutch/etc inspections? Anything else? Engine/Outdrive have 425 hours and I don't know the last time it was serviced. I've done a good bit forward of the transom, but this is the first time I have been behind it other than for trim pucks.

Thanks for any suggestions you guys can provide.

 

[Pirate Lady]

Shift cable, goes inside shift bellows. Inspect gimbal, it may not be bad. Usually only bad if bellows leak, might save you some bucks.

 

[Pirate Lady]

I been going through an overheating problem 2 months. A 91 500 hours, so you are in same ballpark. Check all engine cooling hoses for soft or ‘puffy’. Replace as needed.

 

[Brite Idea]

Don't forget the Trim & Limit switches.

 

[DWABoat]

I did both my Shift Shaft seals and drive shaft seal below the water impeller.

Wasn’t too bad a job and worth the effort.

Anodes are also a consideration - you have one behind the prop.

 

[OldToys]

Shift cable, goes inside shift bellows. Inspect gimbal, it may not be bad. Usually only bad if bellows leak, might save you some bucks.

Good call. I'll look at the bearing once I have the drive off and see what kind of shape it is in.

I been going through an overheating problem 2 months. A 91 500 hours, so you are in same ballpark. Check all engine cooling hoses for soft or ‘puffy’. Replace as needed.

That one is already done. Had to replace the circulation pump due to weeping from the hole, so I inspected all the cooling hoses, risers, and manifolds while I was in there.

Don't forget the Trim & Limit switches.

Got those in round one fixes. (I think I'm on about round 5 of fixes so far!)

I did both my Shift Shaft seals and drive shaft seal below the water impeller.

Wasn’t too bad a job and worth the effort.

Anodes are also a consideration - you have one behind the prop.

I'll add those to the list. Might as well do it while I have the drive open!

 

[Nater Potater]

Check/grease the u-joints.
When replacing the shift cable, pull out the innards, loosen the cable from the bellhousing (you'll need https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QVMZNZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for that ), run a ten foot length of baling wire from the bellhousing end up to the engine side and tie it off close to where it connects. Then, when you pull out the old cable, you've left the baling wire where the old shift cable was. You now re-thread the baling wire into the new cable housing while pushing the housing in through the bellhousing, thus helping you to route the cable back up through the rear of the engine.