Westerbeke 7.0 BCG (1997) Water Ingestion

[Hey Ray]

Short version: After taking the carb apart to dump out bad fuel and re-installing, the lift pump wouldn't deliver fuel to the carb (was working before, it delivered fuel when pressing the "on" button on the panel). What should I check? Long version: I had all 6 of my thru hull fittings replaced over the summer by a boat yard about 60 miles from my home port where a keep it. Boat was put back in the water late September and a couple of days later I cruised it home in about 2.5 hours. Tried to do my regular generator exercise and got a single "clunk" when trying to crank. Uh oh. Checked the dipstick and sure enough there was clear signs of water ingestion. When I told my local mechanic about it and mentioned the new fittings, he said if they mistakenly installed a "scoop" fitting facing forward then the generator most likely took in water on the cruise home. My diver then confirmed this was the case. I let the boat yard know about it and they were apologetic but because of the distance I told them I'd try to get it running myself. Pulled the plugs and it cranked right away (whew). Drained the crank case and it was ALL WATER. Seems like all the oil got pushed out of the engine and collected in the bilge. Changed plugs, oil and filter but couldn't get it to start. Drained oil again and this time it was chocolate malt colored, added new oil. Working with a friend we got it to turn over by pouring fuel directly in the carb but it died as soon as we stopped. Undid the "lift pump line" from the carb and it delivered fuel when pressing the "on" button on the panel but there seemed to be some water in the fuel. Took the carb apart and dumped a bunch of bad fuel out and re-installed, but now the lift won't deliver any fuel. Have been unable to get the fuel separator off to dump that. What should I do next regarding fuel delivery to carb, and anything else based on how much water was ingested?

 

[PlayDate]

I'm not sure where to start.

1) What is the plan for the hull intake?

2) Getting the Westerbeke sorted out. So what happened is that generator sea cock was open and raw water pushed by the raw water pump and filled the exhaust system to the point that water pushed its way into the the open exhaust valves and filled the cylinders with water. Conceivably it also filled the fuel intake if there was any overlap on the valves. This continued for 2.5 hours as the entire generator filled with raw water and pushed most of the oil probably out of the dipstick.

Normally, I would pull the generator but I'm not sure what access you have. There is also the issue of not letting the people responsible for this fix it. Once you start down the road of trying to get it running......I'm not sure why the yard would still be responsible.

You already have to go back to the yard to get the intake redone and I would have them deal with the generator at the same time which is now based on salt water.

Salt water will destroy an engine....so time is of the essence.


If you want to deal with it......the next step is to keep to keep flushing oil into the engine until it comes out clear. Then.....pull the plugs, spray wd40 into the spark plug holes and crank the engine with the seacock closed for 10 seconds at a time, 10 seconds off, 10seconds on five times and drain the oil again.

Hopefully it comes out clear.....if not repeat the process again. This is more important than starting the generator.

Once you have clear oil. You will need a set of new spark plugs (a couple of sets is a good idea).

You mentioned that the fuel pump only works when the Preheat button is depressed. That suggests that one of the safety switches is tripped. When you hold down the Preheat switch it bypasses the safety switches (oil pressure, temp, and exhaust temp) and provides 12 volts to the fuel pump and ignition system.

Is it possible that you knocked off some connections while working on the generator?

It could be a number of things including no oil pressure based on the water in the previous attempts.

If you want to get it running.....you also have to make sure the engine intake does not have water in it as well. I would pull the carb and use compressed air to blow it out from each of the spark plug holes......turning the engine by hand so that the intake and exhaust valves open and close for each cylinder. You will hear the air blowing back toward the carb and also hear it blowing out the exhaust as you turn the engine.

If the air comes out dry from where the carb bolts up......you are ready to start it. If it doesn't keep working it. Any water will keep it from running.

Put the new plugs in .......drain the carb and bolt it back on. Hitting the Preheat should fill the carb's fuel bowl.

To help it get going.....some carb cleaner into the carb should get it to fire. It may only run and sputter for a few tries. At that point, stop and drain the oil again. Keep in mind that if you are not changing the oil filter.......you are just potentially pushing water around inside the engine.

I understand why you want to get this going as soon as possible.......but there is a point where the Yard has the equipment to get this resolved quickly or pull it and send it to a machine shop for resolution. Salt water will eat the cylinder walls in no time. So if they are already damaged ......you want the Yard to be responsible for making it right.

Just my thoughts. I like Westerbekes but water ingestion will kill them.

If you are going to drive it back to the Yard for resolution.....close the generator seacock.

 

[Hey Ray]

Thank you for the very detailed reply PlayDate. I understand the need to get all the water out and will continue with the oil changes until it runs clear. My diver thinks he may be able to turn around the fitting with it in the water, and definitely will close the sea cock when underway until that happens. To clarify regarding the fuel pump, it worked when pressing the preheat switch before I removed the carb, but then did not after reinstalling carb. I did disconnect then reconnect the fuel shutoff solenoid in order to get better access for carb removal, will clean those connection points and see if that is it.

 

[dwna1a]

Very nice answer PD! I’m working my tail feathers off to learn more on our WB motors and issues.

Ray do you have the manual for our Westerbekes

 

[atrick]

Very nice answer PD! I’m working my tail feathers off to learn more on our WB motors and issues.

Ray do you have the manual for our Westerbekes

You can down them all from westerbeke site, got all mine from there!

 

[dwna1a]

You can down them all from westerbeke site, got all mine from there!

Post or pm your email. While mine is only a 4K you have many of the same issues. My biggest suggestion would be to go to Westerbeke and download everything you find.

 

[atrick]

For mine I got user manual, parts manual and service manual

 

[PlayDate]

Thank you for the very detailed reply PlayDate. I understand the need to get all the water out and will continue with the oil changes until it runs clear. My diver thinks he may be able to turn around the fitting with it in the water, and definitely will close the sea cock when underway until that happens. To clarify regarding the fuel pump, it worked when pressing the preheat switch before I removed the carb, but then did not after reinstalling carb. I did disconnect then reconnect the fuel shutoff solenoid in order to get better access for carb removal, will clean those connection points and see if that is it.

There is a low amp fuse on the generator that protects the control board. Check that. With a volt meter you should see 12 volts at the fuel pump and at the fuel solenoid when you have a friend depress the PreHeat switch.

If your diver is successful in turning the intake around......what is that going to do to the sealant that it is bedded in?

 

[dwna1a]

For mine I got user manual, parts manual and service manual

Be sure to go looking for any service updates you can find.

 

[Hey Ray]

There is a low amp fuse on the generator that protects the control board. Check that. With a volt meter you should see 12 volts at the fuel pump and at the fuel solenoid when you have a friend depress the PreHeat switch.

If your diver is successful in turning the intake around......what is that going to do to the sealant that it is bedded in?

Turns out regarding the pre-heat issue, the "Stop" switch on the generator itself got put in the wrong position, all the way down. No issue with cranking now. As for the sealant question, no idea, I'll ask him. I'm on my 3rd oil change and still running like chocolate milk, will keep trying. As for the oil drain on these things, they are a real PIA. Too short, really hard to get a container near it to collect the old oil and the oil itself doesn't flow too well. Oh well, onward! Got it to turn over briefly yesterday after figuring out the "stop" switch issue, so I'm confident I will get this thing back to life once I get the oil clear.