Weight Distributing hitch

boatrboy

boatrboy

Well-Known Member
Oct 3, 2006
1,854
Orange, CT
Boat Info
2006 340 Sundancer
Engines
Twin 8.1 Horizons with V-Drives
I have been looking at these, never using one, and have alot of questions.

I have an aluminum I-beam trailer with surge brakes. It is two axle and holds my 270 DA nicely. As in most trailers of this size, the tongue is approx 3 feet or so before the two side beams connect to it at the "Y" near the winch. So with this in mind:

Do Weight distributing hitches connect to this type of trailer and are they really needed?

I looked at alot of pics in this section and did not see any of these on the larger trailers. I have not had one for two years now and my trailer perfectly straight, but I wanted to investigate this further.

Anyone using one who can provide me some insight?

http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/hh92/boatrboy/270 Sundancer/?action=view&current=IMG_0848.jpg

http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/hh92/boatrboy/270 Sundancer/?action=view&current=IMG_0906.jpg

Thanks - Mark
 
You'll have to determine if they are needed or not. That may depend on the tow vehicle and the amount of weight on the hitch. I didn't have any while trailering the 250 DA behind the Burb. It was OK on dry roads, but if the road got wet there was very little traction on the front end. I left lots of stopping and manuvering room when it rained. Fortunately, I've only seen rain one time in 8 summers. It scared the daylights out of me when it happened. I had to swerve to avoid a car that pulled out in front of me and nothing happened. I hit the brakes and THEN the weight shift put enough weight on the front wheels to move me out of the way, but it was a shorts changing experience. I have surge brakes on the 250 and you can add a WD hitch, you just have to be careful setting it up to assure the chains don't impede the movement of the controller.

I'm adding a set to the trailer on our 300 DA in a couple of months. The 300 DA Trailer has electric brakes, so it shouldn't be a problem. I have the hitch and bars, I just need the mounts for the trailer.
 
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Re: Weight Distributing hitch (WDH)

The hitch manufacturers do make a crossbar that attaches to your tongue with a couple HD U-bolts so you can attach hanger brackets and spring bars. They are supposed to work with surge brakes as long as you have at least 4 or 5 links between the bar and bracket but you might need to adjust the actuator so it delivers more hydraulic pressure sooner.

The big question is whether or not you really need it. It really depends on your TV (tow vehicle). Boat tongue weights are generally 4-7% of the total trailer weight comparede to travel trailers (TT) at 10-15%. My 270 on the trailer with fuel and groceries is about 9800 lbs with a tongue weight of 480. My TT weighed in at 8200 with a tongue of 900: without the spring bars I could detect a little lightness in the truck's steering. The boat doesn't hardly depress the TV's rear springs and since the boat trailer axles are so far back it tracks straighter and doesn't porpoise like the TT.

My thought is if you are towing with 1/2 ton SUV or PU, or you need to adjust your headlights down while towing - go for the WDH. If you are using a 3/4 ton full size PU, you probably don't need a WDH.
 
One of the reasons for getting a WDH is caused by a lot of tongue weight - sag at the rear of the tow vehicle. WDHs distribute even more of that weight to the ball/coupler in the process of leveling the rig and can easily exceed the coupler rating and interfere with proper surge brake operation as a result.
 
I believe that the WDH defeats the surge brakes by about 70%. If you need the WDH i'd look into electric brakes especially since true "surge brakes" are illegal in many states.
 
Alot of the documentation I find gives two ratings for towing, one value w/WDH and a lower value w/out a WDH. I see that both load and tongue values change. So I am still not sure "if" I need this because I have pulled this boat many times without it, BUT all the hitches I have pulled it with give the two values I mentioned. I guess I am looking for your practical experience an opinions.

I have assembled this trailer from scratch and invested alot of money into the largest surge brakes, coupler, chains etc. I have designed and manufactured some custom re-enforcement plates (overkill) etc. Changing this trailer now to electric brakes would not be practical to me but on my next trailer project I would do it.

I currently only need to bring the boat from my house to the ramp approx 8 miles on back roads. I tend to do this twice a year. I have just purchased a new Expedition with towing capacity of 9000 lbs with 3:73's and a 6 speed tranny. This has about the same capability of the f-250 I was using for the last two years. The new (07) Expeditions have made strides to tow more with alot of improved features including bigger brakes etc.

Anyway - another question - I back my trailer into the water pretty far so if I use a WDH it will probably get wet. Do they make Galvanized bars for boat trailers?

Thanks for your feedback- Mark
 
Mark,

Hate to rain on your parade...

Yes you could probably get by if you only go the 8 miles and keep your speed under 30 mph. I had an Expy and pulled 28' TT weighing in at 8200 with all the groceries and toys. W/o the WD bars on, the steering felt light: in a panic stop at moderate+ speeds you will lose steering control!

That 9000 rating is based on several 100 lbs on tongue weight being transfered to the front axles which enables you to maintain steering control. You would be playing with fire and at-fault in a collision unless the other guy runs a red light.

Never seen galvanized bars. Your could use a cold galv. spray paint. Here's a link to WDH adapters for pole tongue (boat) trailers...

http://www.reese-hitches.com/products/Pole_Tongue_Adapter,3360

I know about dumping a lot of $$$ into the trailer. I just dumped $2400 into a drum-to-SS disc brake conversion including a surge to electric-over-hydraulic conversion and a few $100 worth of other mods. Assuming your hyd. brakes are good, it shouldn't be over $900 or $1000. The braking is much improved!

Good luck!
 
Just Right said:
.....I had an Expy and pulled 28' TT weighing in at 8200 with all the groceries and toys. W/o the WD bars on, the steering felt light: in a panic stop at moderate+ speeds you will lose steering control!....Good luck!
Click to expand...
Did you end up towing it with the WDH?

Thanks for the link - that makes sense to me now on how to connect this to my trailer. I will talk to a manufacturer of WDH's to find out which models will work with my surge brakes now that I know they make the adapter you have shown me.

BTW - what year was your Expedition?

Thanks - Mark
 
Properly installed most will work fine with surge brakes. I was in the same predicament as you earlier this year since I had always been towing in the neighborhood of 8200 lbs. shorter distances with a rig only rated for this load with a WDH. The last trip to FL was my ultimate cause for concern but my rig towed for 1100 miles every bit as well as it did on any previous shorter trip. I had every intention of installing the Nissan WDH before this trip but it never came off backorder. At this point I don't think I'll bother anymore.
 
It was a 2000 Eddie with a 8400 rating (I switched to 16" rims and put LT instead of P tires to get the higher rating).

I upgraded to the 1 ton but still used the WDH and bars because I still had moments of light steering when on undulating roads.

Happy trails,
 
I was worried about the conflict between the WDH and the surge brakes, so I elected to go with the triple axle trailer with disc brakes but no WDH. I did just upgrade the hitch itself to the 12K one and was told that with 3 axles will track right and transfer the weight better
 
I have tried both. Here's what I learned: Even with the triple axle under my 26, handling was improved by a weight distributing hitch, but it did significantly reduce surge brake performance (and it was designed specifically to work with surge brakes. WDH with electric brakes works very well.
 
I tow my 2004 240 Sundancer back & forth from Connecticut to Marco Island, FL - approx. 1,300 miles each way. The boat is usually loaded with gear, a Zed, and outboard. I hit the CAT scale in Milford to the tune of 8,450-lb. I have towed with an 2005 Ford Exped. and just switched to an 2008 Yukon Denali. Both have rear load levelling shocks. The trailer is a Load Rite 2-axle with four wheel disc brakes.

Thanks to the CT dealer, who will remain nameless, my trailer set-up was horrid upon delivery. I could not imagine driving this rig more than 5 miles @ 25. I went right to Load Rite's Tech Department. Found out the tongue weight should be 4-5%, not the 10-15% the dealer had - so I moved the boat back on the trailer along with the bow support dropping the tongue weight by 700-lbs. to 350-lbs.!!!!

The Load Right was very concerned I would even think of a WDH. Weight Distributing hitch would basically give me zero brakes!!!!! DANGEROUS!!!!!!!!! I did what they said - no WDH, tongue 4-5%, and it has been perfect. The rear load levelling in my Ex & now Yukon keep the vehicle at the right height front and back. If you have to on your vehicle add some Firestone Load Leveller to the rear end.

I've run the trailer over 10,000 miles with great trailering. On open roads, it tows at speed with no drift at all. Not that I drive this fast with this much weight, but testing @ 75 mph., my hands off the wheel and it is straight as an arrow. Tap the vehicle brakes and trailer surge brakes engage strong and hold until stopped. Even have tried emergency stops and wriggled the wheel and never felt any jackknife brewing. It is a really secure feeling when driving New York's Cross Bronx Expressway north & south .....

1) Bottom line do not do anything your trailer manufacturer does not recommend. 2) Take your time. Trailering and taking your boat different places is a blast. Drive carefully, give yourself lots of room, never drive in a hurry, and arrive safe.:thumbsup:
 
TG - thanks for the reply and welcome to the board. So let me ask, does your hitch have two ratings listed on it (a sticker or some marking), one for with a wdh and the other for without?

Thanks - Mark
 
Mark,
We had some descussion in the post "Towing". Here's the link.
http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3925&highlight=equilizer&page=2

I made my comments in the post #19 regarding Equilizer I use for my rig. I strongly recommend the product, unless your TV is overpowered and much heavier than boat and the trailer. My Cadi is almost the same weight as the boat on trailer and the difference between using the equalizer vs. just hooking the rig to the ball is huge.

Equalizer also works great with surge breaks.

Hope this helps,
Alex.
 
tginz said:
I tow my 2004 240 Sundancer back & forth from Connecticut to Marco Island, FL - :
Click to expand...

Just got back from 6 days in Marco, first time there visiting friends. Outstanding!!!!!!!! Beautiful boating and all around great place. Got to have a few brews on a beautiful 2006 500DB at the Marco Island Yacht Club... Very nice to see how the other half lives:smt101
 
Sorry I haven't answered - been computerless for a few days. My hitch has two rating! But in discussion with the dealer, the tagging on the hitch is confusing regarding WDH versus non-WDH. The tongue weight is critical - don't exceed it but that hitch will pull the WHOLE weight load regardless of the WDH or not. I was told as long as you don't exceed the tongue wieght with a non-WDH and don't exceed the tow capacity of the a WDH rating, you will be fine. For example as it was explained to me - if you pull a long pole with 10-lb. of tongue weight and a total weight of 9,000 lbs. OR you pull a boat with 375-lbs of tongue weight and a total wieght of 9,000 lbs. the "pull" force on that hitch is the same. Therefore with a non-WDH follow the lower number for tingue weight and high number for tow capacity.

dpvandy01 - We're on Huron Ct. Marco. South-end of the island, just inside Caxambass Pass. Through the waterways about 10 mins. to the Gulf and 45 mins. to Everglades National Park!!!!

tginz
 
boatrboy said:
I back my trailer into the water pretty far so if I use a WDH it will probably get wet. Do they make Galvanized bars for boat trailers?

Thanks for your feedback- Mark
Click to expand...

If you are only trailering twice a year, I don't think you'll have to worry about your bars. Just rinse them if you are in saltwater, otherwise don't worry about them. They get wet from rain while driving and don't seem to get soggy or limp. :)
 
tginz said:
dpvandy01 - We're on Huron Ct. Marco. South-end of the island, just inside Caxambass Pass. Through the waterways about 10 mins. to the Gulf and 45 mins. to Everglades National Park!!!!

tginz
Click to expand...

We wont be down there again until next winter.. actually shooting for New Years in Key West taking the fairy from Marco.. I'll give a shout as plans firm up.. let's have a beer or three.:thumbsup:
 
Thanks for all the input. I am going to measure tongue weight somehow in my driveway and go from there. I may try towing it as is around the block to get some (limited of course) feel for it. I know when I pulled it with the f-250 it towed well without one. With the new Expedition having a shorter wheelbase we will have to see.

Mark
 
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