Waxing ... Polishing ... Yada, Yada

[320Bob]

sswall1969,
As a newbie boat compounder/polisher I bought a Shurhold DA polisher and it was easy as pie to apply the polish with their foam pad. Since the foam pad really works the polish into the gelcoat, all I had to do was buff it up a little with a microfiber towel. However, with Buff Magic, it was much more work with the DA and their wool pad compared to Carver370's video with his Dewalt Rotary. However, mine has a 6" wheel while his appeared to have a 10' or 12" pad which will have more rotational speed due to the larger diameter. He was using the outer edge of the pad while I used the middle. I would suggest skipping the Cleaner wax, just use Buff Magic to shine up the surface then apply your Star Brite polish which is what I used since it had PTEF. Check out this thread below for advice from Barry, Shurhold's CEO, on the DA speeds for compounding and polishing.

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/33558-Buff-Magic/page15?highlight=Buff+Magic

 

[drock1892]

I have a little experience with finishing as I detailed cars in college (not THAT long ago) and always had great success with 3M products. While I know gelcoat is far different than an auto clearcoat finish, these are the first products I researched when my Dad decided to restore his mid 70s sailboat. I came across this link which is worth watching:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ke5kfYz9Ybw

For my Dad's project, the boat had been so neglected we started with three different courses of wet-sanding with decreasing grit each time. We then followed the 3M process with AMAZING results. I'm proud to say the gelcoat now stands tall even when compared to much newer boats.

This year I'm going to follow the same process (minus the wet-sanding) on our "new to us" 330 (3M Imperial Coumpound w/ wool compounding pad, 3M Finesse it w/ foam polishing pad and a marine grade wax with a foam finishing pad). The gelcoat on the SR is in far better shape than it was on the sailboat, so I have high expectations for a great result again. I use a DeWalt high speed buffer which works very well, but there are a number of great buffers out there (Makita, B&D, etc.). In my opinion, variable high speed is the only way to go and is the only machine you need.

As paulswagelock said, Lake Country makes great buffing/polishing pads. Here's a link to their new "single use" pads that I plan on using:

http://www.lakecountrymfg.com/products/1pad/

Living in Michigan means I won't have the boat pulled outside until close to the end of this month, for a launch on the 28th. The marina won't allow any work inside, so I won't be able to update until that date.

Good luck!

 

[k2crasher]

Here is what I had to deal with when I bought my boat.


Here is my after result


I started out with 3m heavy oxidation remover. I could tell I was going to have to be a little more aggressive with it though. So I just went with the wet sanding. 800 grit, 1000, 1500 and then 3m oxidation remover, finished that up with 3m glaze it polish and finally a few coats of wax. For the buffing part, I used a Milwaukee variable speed buffer. Along with some 3m buffing and polishing pads. Make sure you don't polish with a pad you have been buffing with. I applied and removed the wax by hand. I also agree that the Makita 9227Cis a great buffer. Will be my next one. Good luck!

 

[Bel_Mar_Pointe]

Nice work k2....looks great! Another vote for the Makita 9227C.

 

[Carver370]

sswall1969,
However, with Buff Magic, it was much more work with the DA and their wool pad compared to Carver370's video with his Dewalt Rotary. However, mine has a 6" wheel while his appeared to have a 10' or 12" pad which will have more rotational speed due to the larger diameter. He was using the outer edge of the pad while I used the middle.

It might look big, but in reality as much as I would hate to admit it I am just small. lol The pad is a 9".

 

[comsnark]

I am partial to the Porta-Cable.

 

[timemachine]

I use my Porter Cable Random Orbital with Finesse It II and foam pads. After years of harassment from my buddies I decided to try Zaino instead of my traditional Fleet Wax. I was very impressed with the Zaino on my cars and spoke to Sal Zaino who said its perfect for Boats as well. Its not a wax but seems to proclaim more protection than waxes. I will be able to give a more honest review after the summer but the shine is bueatiful!

 

[Asureyez]

First of the season, patch the mistakes, compound with with 3M Cleaner Wax remove residue. DA Buff in Finesse at 1800-2000 rpms to a brilliant gloss. hand dust, With DA apply liberal coat with 3M Boat Wax apply at slow speed and then Buff Out at 2500 to 3000 rpm hand ust, get out there.

Wash with West Crystal boat wash 3-4 oz in three gallons of water. I like this wash as cleans great, it doesn't lift wax, rinses easily w/o streaks.

Mid Season apply wax with Boat wax as above with a DA.

 

[jabs]

Never buffed or waxed for that matter and the thing I have been reading about with the more powerful rotarys is you can burn or make swirls in the gel coat how do you avoid this?

Also, on white gel coat after using the 3m compound if you are doing it right what should the gel coat look like?

 

[drock1892]

Never buffed or waxed for that matter and the thing I have been reading about with the more powerful rotarys is you can burn or make swirls in the gel coat how do you avoid this?

Also, on white gel coat after using the 3m compound if you are doing it right what should the gel coat look like?

Jabs,

Burning happens a few different ways. While not an all inclusive list, here are some of the most common... Running the buffer in one immediate spot for too long, using a dirty/worn out pad, touching delicate materials like plastic/rubber or simply pressing too hard (most often on "edge" of the buffing pad and backer). It's really a lot harder to do than what you would think. Just make sure you're always using a clean pad, run it at a medium speed (1800-2200 rpm), always keep the buffer moving and stay away from materials like rubber/plastic. Slowly working 2x2' sections back and forth, up and down with the pad flat on the surface will do the trick.

As for what the surface should look like after compounding... You should notice a dramatic improvement in shine and the finish should be much more uniform as you'll remove oxidation. If after using a product like 3M compound you still don't like the results, then you may have to consider going down the path of wet sanding like k2crasher did.

 

[jabs]

Jabs,

Burning happens a few different ways. While not an all inclusive list, here are some of the most common... Running the buffer in one immediate spot for too long, using a dirty/worn out pad, touching delicate materials like plastic/rubber or simply pressing too hard (most often on "edge" of the buffing pad and backer). It's really a lot harder to do than what you would think. Just make sure you're always using a clean pad, run it at a medium speed (1800-2200 rpm), always keep the buffer moving and stay away from materials like rubber/plastic. Slowly working 2x2' sections back and forth, up and down with the pad flat on the surface will do the trick.

As for what the surface should look like after compounding... You should notice a dramatic improvement in shine and the finish should be much more uniform as you'll remove oxidation. If after using a product like 3M compound you still don't like the results, then you may have to consider going down the path of wet sanding like k2crasher did.

Thanks appreciate the response.

I think I'm going to have some one wet sand it. There is some damage nothing big just enough to annoy and plenty oxidation. I believe he is charging me 800.00 to wet sand, polish and wax and fix the nicks. I'm going to try to have him take off the existing bottom paint while he is at it too...