Water leak on bridge
- Thread starter Four Suns
- Start date
Maybe I was not as clear as I could be. Look at this picture and note the rub rail on the bridge floor is exposed between the cockpit canvas and the bridge canvas:
As water hits the bridge isenglass, there is a sheet of water that flows over that exposed rub rail on the bridge floor and flows onto the back cockpit canvas. That rub rail section is higher than the place it is coming out and I think in is flowing over to the lower spots where the speakers are and rub rail by the stairs.
Heck... I don't know... I *think* it is there as I've removed panels and caulked everywhere else and it is dry in those areas. I'm not sure where else it would come from at this point.
Gary, My dockmate has the same boat, 01, he had the same problem, you could actually see water in the overhead lights under the bridge overhead, he had Sea Ray come look at it, they even drilled a hole in the support going up along the side must of had 3 gallons of water come out, they had took care of recauling almost the entire boat, I think the main problem was from the bridge windows. Bob
Can you clarify what you mean by "bridge windows" and "support going up along the side"? If you are referring to the structure that holds up the hard top, I pulled the speakers and panels off that yesterday (even at the base) and it was dry as a bone. Where did they drill?
I have recaulked all the bridge seams (a lot of work) as the caulk was falling apart and there were a few leaks with that. Those are gone now.
If you think balsa coring is bad, the bridge floor is a paper honeycomb core structure/panel. That's got very little chance of seeing water though unless there is water leaking from the top skin of the floor. I know what it is made of because the first year I had the boat, the table in the u-seating area on the bridge broke off from the floor. It was screwed into the floor with 1/4" sheet metal screws and no backing plate. That had to be re-engineered. The water in this case is between the bridge floor and the cockpit ceiling and there is about a 6 inch void there.
I have recaulked all the bridge seams (a lot of work) as the caulk was falling apart and there were a few leaks with that. Those are gone now.
If you think balsa coring is bad, the bridge floor is a paper honeycomb core structure/panel. That's got very little chance of seeing water though unless there is water leaking from the top skin of the floor. I know what it is made of because the first year I had the boat, the table in the u-seating area on the bridge broke off from the floor. It was screwed into the floor with 1/4" sheet metal screws and no backing plate. That had to be re-engineered. The water in this case is between the bridge floor and the cockpit ceiling and there is about a 6 inch void there.
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Gary, they drilled a hole on the outside about 6" up from where the support goes up along the rear of the salon windows, they also drilled a hole on each side on the rear of the support for future drain. I'll check with him this weekend about where they said it was leaking. I know they recaulked the whole boat from the rubrail up, all of the snaps, rails etc. They had Art Cox from Anchor Bay do the work, I know he now does a lot of work for Sea Ray. Bob
Gary, he bought the boat in 03, this work was done in 05. Bob
tdappleman
Active Member
- Dec 17, 2007
- 1,608
- Boat Info
- 1996 270 Sundancer
- Engines
- New twin 4.3's - 235hp each with Alpha 1 Gen 2 Drives
So if the rubrail is leaking is the correct process to:
make sure the water is out and things are dry, then remove each screw and add caulk to the threads and reinstall then caulk on top and bottom of the rubrail? Thanks for the warning about not removing all of the screws at once - especially at the joint - hadn't thought of that. Is Bostik 960 the correct caulk to use?
make sure the water is out and things are dry, then remove each screw and add caulk to the threads and reinstall then caulk on top and bottom of the rubrail? Thanks for the warning about not removing all of the screws at once - especially at the joint - hadn't thought of that. Is Bostik 960 the correct caulk to use?
Gary, I talked to him this weekend, they never did fully explain where the water came from, but they did have the marina recaulk the whole boat and have not had a problem since. Bob
MadDog
New Member
Just a thought, check out http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12659
On my 400, they forgot to drill a drain hole on one side of the flybridge base which resulted in water in the lights.
On my 400, they forgot to drill a drain hole on one side of the flybridge base which resulted in water in the lights.
WFYB
New Member
Attached is an IR photo of the swim platform on my previous boat - Jan 06. Note the water intrusion through the rub rail screw. I removed this screw and two or three on either side. Caulked with silicone and re-installed. The boat was again surveyed in June 08 by the same surveyor same equipment. He found no evidence of water intrusion.
Attachments
Well that's a neat little tool...
I'm afraid what it would show around my boat...
Where do I get one?
I'm afraid what it would show around my boat...
Where do I get one?
douglee25
Well-Known Member
Thermal imaging cameras aren't cheap. A lot of surveyors are beginning to use them.
Try here. $3k. Ouch.
http://www.moisturemeterstore.com/extech-i5-infrared-camera-158992.shtml
Doug
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douglee25
Well-Known Member
:smt043
