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That’s kind of what I was thinking as well. Bellows and seals on dripless drive shafts were done in 2016. Wonder if they may be the cause or rudders?I've never allowed water to collect / sit in the bilge of any boat. You can always find the source and remedy the cause, bilge pumps aren't there to evacuate water on a regular basis from my perspective.
I've never allowed water to collect / sit in the bilge of any boat. You can always find the source and remedy the cause, bilge pumps aren't there to evacuate water on a regular basis from my perspective.
We float in salt water, so my go to was smell it and then taste it... I have had fresh water connections leak and shaft/rudder seals leak. My bilge is bone dry.
Check the salon AC drip pan / drain. If the pan is holding water, the drain is probably clogged. My 410 would overflow the pan (by design, into the salon bilge) if the drain tube which was routed to the sump got clogged.I have water accumulating at the bilge pump in the galley of my 420 DA. I shop vac it out and it seeps back in from some where and it stinks!! I have checked the sanitation lines from the heads and no leaks. The sump box is not leaking into the area. The water level never gets high enough to turn the pump on until I'm underway. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
How much time does a virgin rub rail tech need to allocate for pulling the rub rail and resealing it?The hull to deck joints that SR did on their larger boats were notoriously poorly sealed. After you exhaust all the other possibilities others have said then look to remove the rub rail and reseal that joint. I had to do it and many others have.
Depends upon the size of the boat. For a 40' boat and a virgin -How much time does a virgin rub rail tech need to allocate for pulling the rub rail and resealing it?