Water hose leaks

Scotto97

Member
Feb 26, 2009
95
Las Vegas
Boat Info
"Wench & Rum" 2007 260 Sundancer, Gen with A/C
Engines
350 Mag
I need advice on how to repair leaking connections for the hot and cold water hose fittings on my 07 260DA.

They are the 1/2" SeaFlex hoses with the black thumb flange type female connectors at each end.

The hot hoses are red and the cold are blue.

I've tried replacing the washers by going to an RV store which seemed to have the correct type (Cone), but upon install they continue to leak on the back side where the fitting goes into the remaining length of the hose.

Are there special washers that are specific to them ?

Do the entire hoses need to be replaced for some reason?

Any help would be appreciated
 
Mine are 15 & 22mm I have replaced 90% of them and in a few cases, I have cut the water line back approx. 1" to expose fresh line.
 
Mine are 15 & 22mm I have replaced 90% of them and in a few cases, I have cut the water line back approx. 1" to expose fresh line.

So do you have the special PEX crimping tool to install new connections?

I've tried cutting them attaching new connectors, but hose clamps don't get tight enough to stop the new connections from leaking.
 
So do you have the special PEX crimping tool to install new connections?

I've tried cutting them attaching new connectors, but hose clamps don't get tight enough to stop the new connections from leaking.

You have the same connections that I do. You also have 1/2" hose/pipe with a 1/2" female connector. I have replaced some where around 25-30 of them and now have zero leaks. I used the pex female connectors from HD/Lowes and had to order the proper pinch clamps from McMaster Carr as a regular 1/2" Pex clamp will not work.
Here are the clamps and a pic is attached after repair. Water Connections.jpg upload_2018-4-2_13-34-16.png
upload_2018-4-2_13-34-16.png
 
Sorry, it looks like apples and oranges... We have two different setups.
 
You have the same connections that I do. You also have 1/2" hose/pipe with a 1/2" female connector. I have replaced some where around 25-30 of them and now have zero leaks. I used the pex female connectors from HD/Lowes and had to order the proper pinch clamps from McMaster Carr as a regular 1/2" Pex clamp will not work.
Here are the clamps and a pic is attached after repair.View attachment 54615 View attachment 54616
View attachment 54616

That's them.

Did you ever try just changing out the washers?

Were the female fittings from Lowe's the "Sharkbite" brand?

I noticed their barb fitting were not very tight when inserted into the hose, probably why the hose clamps didn't work and leaked
 
That's them.

Did you ever try just changing out the washers?

Were the female fittings from Lowe's the "Sharkbite" brand?

I noticed their barb fitting were not very tight when inserted into the hose, probably why the hose clamps didn't work and leaked

Yes on the cone washers. They did nothing. If you really look, your leak is coming from the back side of the female fitting. The clamp is made of brass and, over time, appears to relax just enough for them to drip or worse.

You are also correct, the "Sharkbite" fitting barb does not fit tight at all and therefore the need for the different pinch clamp. Another member, TTMott, used a heat gun and a screw type clamp. He heated the hose first to get it more pliable that then tightened down on the clamp with a nut driver. I used the pinch clamps because I did not want to have to retighten them.

There was also a white female connector with a barb from Lowes that cost a little more. I tried them and one seemed to work as well as the other so I went with the cheaper one to be consistent with OEM. I have many more that may have to be changed one day, but for now, I am dry.

Here is the thread that addresses both "fixes."

http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/leaking-water-connections.85924/

Bennett
 
Yes on the cone washers. They did nothing. If you really look, your leak is coming from the back side of the female fitting. The clamp is made of brass and, over time, appears to relax just enough for them to drip or worse.

You are also correct, the "Sharkbite" fitting barb does not fit tight at all and therefore the need for the different pinch clamp. Another member, TTMott, used a heat gun and a screw type clamp. He heated the hose first to get it more pliable that then tightened down on the clamp with a nut driver. I used the pinch clamps because I did not want to have to retighten them.

There was also a white female connector with a barb from Lowes that cost a little more. I tried them and one seemed to work as well as the other so I went with the cheaper one to be consistent with OEM. I have many more that may have to be changed one day, but for now, I am dry.

Here is the thread that addresses both "fixes."

http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/leaking-water-connections.85924/

Bennett

Great info - thanks Bennett
 
I wonder if you put a strong hose clamp around the current “OEM clamp” and tightened it down with a nut driver...could you tighten the existing clamp tight enough to stop the leak? Might be worth a try...I made up one short hose using Pex 1/2” pipe and some Sea Tech push to lock female connectors. It also works perfect. If I had hoses that were easily accessed, I would go this route......

We had an 06 260DA and had the same leaks at the HWH. I never did totally fix them...wish I knew then what I know now...

Bennett
 
There is a good series of posts on this a couple of months ago. Quite a few of us have wrestled with the situation. New PEX/Sharkbite swivel fitting with hose clamp is the easiest fix. The hose ID larger than the OD of the fittings is the root of the issue and with the brass swage the assembly is destined to leak. The secret is to warm up the hose with a heat gun before tightening the hose clamp; when cold that hose is very hard; it doesn't take much heat to really soften it up so the clamp can conform the hose to the fitting barb. These in the picture are 1/2" wide heavy duty hose clamps which give a lot of clamping surface area. The cone seals rarely leak; I have a whole bag of the things if anyone needs some....
IMG_2646.JPG

IMG_2641.JPG
 
Last edited:
Great advice all around. I went ahead and ordered the pinch clamps that Bennett suggested along with the clamp tool and 15 feet of both blue and red hose. I'll be using the sharkbite fittings and creating new hoses or replacing the fittings depending on the available slack in the hose sections.
 
They also make a different crimping system for pex, its a solid copper crimp that slides onto the pex and the crimping tool crimps completely around the crimp not like the crimps that your using which could loosen up. The down side is the tool cost $100 but is far better that the crimps your going to use. The solid copper crimp is the original style but you couldn't get into a lot of place so they came up with the other system. The solid copper crimp doesn't leak.
 
Great advice all around. I went ahead and ordered the pinch clamps that Bennett suggested along with the clamp tool and 15 feet of both blue and red hose. I'll be using the sharkbite fittings and creating new hoses or replacing the fittings depending on the available slack in the hose sections.

The pinch clamps worked perfect with the existing OEM Sea Tech hose. It is like double walled. I ordered the next size clamp smaller and it would not go over the hose. If memory serves me correctly, i ordered a short piece of newer Sea Tech hose and it was identical to the Pex at HD/Lowes. I bought it to experiment with and the clamps you ordered may be too big for it. They 1/2” Pex clamps(HD/Lowes) may work on the newer hose. The clamps are SS and the way they are made, they grip 360*. In my case, access to some of the hose ends was terrible and it was either pinch clamps or the screw type clamps. There are many house plumbed with Pex and pinch clamps that don’t leak so I think I am good.

Bennett
 

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