rcmafgny
Active Member
- Oct 10, 2009
- 1,245
- Boat Info
- 2008 33 Sundancer; Kohler Gen set; Simrad electronics
- Engines
- Twin 8.1 Horizons w/ V Drives
Water coming in to cabin
- Thread starter rcmafgny
- Start date
JimT
Well-Known Member
- Jul 7, 2009
- 1,910
- Boat Info
- 2010 330 Sundancer
- Engines
- T-350mags w/BIIIs & Axius, 5.0 kw Kohler
In that area I would look at the stanchions and the rub rail. Also, the anchor locker. Water will travel so the area that is appearing could be a distance from the entry point. Good Luck.
Donetalkin
New Member
- Jun 7, 2017
- 15
- Boat Info
- 2008 350 Sundancer
- Engines
- Twin Merc 8.1 370 hp
Hurth ZF63 IV - 2.0 V-drives
Kohler 5ECD Genset
I have a similar looking issue, did you find out where it was coming from? I'm going to start investigations at the anchor locker and go from there.
rcmafgny
Active Member
- Oct 10, 2009
- 1,245
- Boat Info
- 2008 33 Sundancer; Kohler Gen set; Simrad electronics
- Engines
- Twin 8.1 Horizons w/ V Drives
I have not
probably doing the same this spring, but starting from the windshield as everything runs forward [down slope].
let me know if you have any luck. I'll do the same
sbw1
Well-Known Member
- Oct 10, 2006
- 8,185
- Boat Info
- This is listed in my signature
- Engines
- This is listed in my signature
My 370 did this for the ten years I owned it. Bought it new. The dealer couldn't fix it and I tried after warranty was up and spent lots of money trying. Sold it out of frustration.
sbw1
Well-Known Member
- Oct 10, 2006
- 8,185
- Boat Info
- This is listed in my signature
- Engines
- This is listed in my signature
An added thought......after doing all the obvious things such as rebeddding stanchions and rub rails, I developed a theory about the origin of the problem. The repairs worked for short periods of time, but the leaks always returned. I came to believe that the hull/deck joint on my 370 was so poorly designed, that the flexing of the hull from running on the Great Lakes caused the repairs to fail. An experienced boater who I have come to trust as a source of information, concluded much the same. When you take some of these boats apart to see what is going on, you discover all kinds of issues with sheared off screws and enlarged holes from fasteners moving. The 370 was never abused, but it was just not strong enough to handle Lake Michigan.
FootballFan
Well-Known Member
Finding that kind of a leak can be difficult. Went through locating a leak in the salon on the 47DB we had. Just finally think I have isolated and resolved some unwanted water on our current boat.
Is the residue salty or fresh? Does it only show up after rain - or both rain and running the boat in wet conditions? Does it show up after a normal boat wash?
Challenge is finding the entry point since once the water gets in it can travel some distance before it shows up. Not sure how accessible that area is above the mirror. Could you get the top panel, above the mirror off - see if you can find a water trail?
On the 47DB the culprit was the front windshield splash guard - not sure the correct term. The angled out short window at the front of the fly bridge. The bedding of window had failed. Water traveled approximately 10 feet before it showed up in the salon. Found it with having someone outside with a hose spraying every area possible around the front of the boat with another person in the salon with the ceiling panel out. Once I saw water coming in, started tracing the trail back to the area, then was able to reproduce with the hose. Fixed the window area, solved the problem.
On our current boat, our problem turned out to be a broken fitting on the fly bridge ice maker causing water to come out of a weep drain on the side of the boat.
In this case I bought an endoscopic camera ( or bore scope ) off of Amazon. $20-30, 10 foot of stiff cable with the camera on the then. Displays the image on an iPhone or iPad. Wow, maybe one of the most useful tools on the boat now. Was able to go investigate possible water sources, found a trail that led to the culprit.
Something like this - not sure if this is the exact one I bought - this one is android based.
https://www.amazon.com/USB-Borescop...ocphy=9026827&hvtargid=pla-371040107488&psc=1
I agree with all the above posts, any fitting, hatch, stanchion is a possibility. Not feasible to replace/rebed everything. Maybe working with a hose you can isolate.
If you cant get the panel completely off, you may be able to open it up enough to get a endoscope camera in - see what is happening.
Good luck with the search. These things can be frustrating to find.
Is the residue salty or fresh? Does it only show up after rain - or both rain and running the boat in wet conditions? Does it show up after a normal boat wash?
Challenge is finding the entry point since once the water gets in it can travel some distance before it shows up. Not sure how accessible that area is above the mirror. Could you get the top panel, above the mirror off - see if you can find a water trail?
On the 47DB the culprit was the front windshield splash guard - not sure the correct term. The angled out short window at the front of the fly bridge. The bedding of window had failed. Water traveled approximately 10 feet before it showed up in the salon. Found it with having someone outside with a hose spraying every area possible around the front of the boat with another person in the salon with the ceiling panel out. Once I saw water coming in, started tracing the trail back to the area, then was able to reproduce with the hose. Fixed the window area, solved the problem.
On our current boat, our problem turned out to be a broken fitting on the fly bridge ice maker causing water to come out of a weep drain on the side of the boat.
In this case I bought an endoscopic camera ( or bore scope ) off of Amazon. $20-30, 10 foot of stiff cable with the camera on the then. Displays the image on an iPhone or iPad. Wow, maybe one of the most useful tools on the boat now. Was able to go investigate possible water sources, found a trail that led to the culprit.
Something like this - not sure if this is the exact one I bought - this one is android based.
https://www.amazon.com/USB-Borescop...ocphy=9026827&hvtargid=pla-371040107488&psc=1
I agree with all the above posts, any fitting, hatch, stanchion is a possibility. Not feasible to replace/rebed everything. Maybe working with a hose you can isolate.
If you cant get the panel completely off, you may be able to open it up enough to get a endoscope camera in - see what is happening.
Good luck with the search. These things can be frustrating to find.