mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
If he has a seacock and strainer, well, he is pulling water from the thru hull, correct?
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It depends, Greg. Depends on who did the install and how they did it. Yes, you are correct that water is being pulled in through the thru hull. The question is whether or not it is ALSO being pulled in through the drive.I he has a seacock and strainer, well, he is pulling water from the thru hull, correct?
I corrected that statementEven if it was pulling from both they SHOULD be tied in before the strainer. My 06 280 DA pulled from both.
No, you are correct about the exhaust gas mixing with the cooling water. But think of the manifold elbow as a one-way valve. It's fine going out - but if water came backwards, it would be a problem.
FYI, it's not condescending - or at least not meant that way - just trying to respond with facts. It wasn't clear that you were actually checking the hose and inlet which was why I asked again. It would be easy if I was there with you - but it's hard to see your setup from where I am
Just to be clear... there are many cases where the inlet from the drive is T'd in AFTER the strainer. Which, again, is why I was curious to know "for sure" in your case.
If you are positive that the inlet hose from the drive is not T'd into the system (possibly further back where you can't readily see it?), then it's just a matter of not waiting long enough to drain. Often what "feels" like 10 minutes in cases like this are actually much less. It's like waiting for a pot of water boil - it seems to take forever.
hey, thats a good idea. Ill check it out. Its a lot easier to see that then under the engine.Yes, correct. If you traced the hose from the strainer to the raw water pump 100% and saw no T, then there is no other source for the inlet. You could also look at the inner transom plate where the inlet hose from the drive would normally be attached... if for no other reason than to familiarize yourself with more things.
Isn't part "g" a problem child, with some kind of valve in it?Yes, correct. If you traced the hose from the strainer to the raw water pump 100% and saw no T, then there is no other source for the inlet. You could also look at the inner transom plate where the inlet hose from the drive would normally be attached... if for no other reason than to familiarize yourself with more things.
There is NO valve in G. It is simply a hollow plastic ball with different sized outlets. One for water in, smaller one for water out feeding the exhaust elbows, another feeds the engine's main cooling system, and a drain on the bottom. The drain can either be a simple blue plug or some have a vertical threaded steel rod going in the large capped top, through the middle of the ball, and threads into a drain hole in the bottom of the ball. When the rod is unscrewed it allows water to drain out the bottom of the ball through a small tube (seen on the diagram curved and pointed forward).Isn't part "g" a problem child, with some kind of valve in it?
Im marking 5 connections?
It looks to me that his seacocks and strainers are factory. The manuals don't show them in diagrams but the parts list shows themIt depends, Greg. Depends on who did the install and how they did it. Yes, you are correct that water is being pulled in through the thru hull. The question is whether or not it is ALSO being pulled in through the drive.
Sure, but then you'd need radiators with big noisy fans just like cars and trucks do now. You're sitting in a huge source of cooling water (lake/ocean) that's a lot more efficient at removing heat than air could ever be. Of course, we could always go the way of the VW flat-four producing 55 horsepower... Water-cooling definitely brings some complications, but it beats the alternative when it comes to making lots of horsepower in a relatively small package.Computers are cooled by water now, with fans to blow over the heat exchanger...can't they figure it out for boats so they do not need to use raw water?
There is NO valve in G. It is simply a hollow plastic ball with different sized outlets. One for water in, smaller one for water out feeding the exhaust elbows, another feeds the engine's main cooling system, and a drain on the bottom. The drain can either be a simple blue plug or some have a vertical threaded steel rod going in the large capped top, through the middle of the ball, and threads into a drain hole in the bottom of the ball. When the rod is unscrewed it allows water to drain out the bottom of the ball through a small tube (seen on the diagram curved and pointed forward).
Storm, you will find Dennis (Lazy Daze) is one of the "helpingest" people on this forum. He is truly trying to help. You will also help all of us help you with pictures and even video when you get the chance (I know you already covered this, just throwing it out there again) Hopefully it is just the time issue and you will get this solved!! Keep us posted. It may help the next guy!
Part G is a huge problem. Plastic Water distribution manifold made of cheap plastic. The way mercury has it set up with 3 different types of drainage systems and none of them work is nuts. and they crack easily. Iv'e replaced one already.
there is another one also. trhere are three types of these manifolds depending on which type of draining system you have. ig they crack or stop working, that is when u replace with the hollow one. plz excuse my short and bad typimg. i just had shoulder surgery and am chicken picking the key board. there is a manual twist type of drain, an air actuated type that uses a hand pump and little plastic hoses to open a valve in the manifold, which i had and the hoses melted and rendered it useless, si i replaced the manifild with the hollow one.
I agree that the plastic manifold is a lousy idea. I replaced one of mine last spring since the blue plug broke the plastic threads out while tightening. The new replacement actually separated at its main seam the first time out. Luckily we caught it right away since there was a change in engine "tone". The ball split on the welded seam at 4000RPM+ which doused the ER with water. The replacement's replacement held the rest of the season without issue. How long? Who knows! Merc...
Yup - replaced my cracked one last Spring. Had the notorious slow drip at the blue plug.Part G the distribution housing had a valve in my 2006 DA, no blue plug and it would drain when air pressure was introduced with the easy 3 point drain system for winterizing.
Poor design even after they added the blue plug. Plastic crap