Vibration Problem - 2004 200 Select 5.0L MPI w/ Bravo III

[Tom K]

I just bought this gently used 2004 200 Select with only 32 hours :smt001 . I recently put it in the lake and I felt a vibration that seems to begin at about 2500 RPMs. I felt it in the floor and it can be heard as well. I was told by a friend that it was probably a prop(s) that need to be rebalanced. So I did that. They were fine. The problem still exists. I also greased the gimbel bearing.

The last thing I did was put the boat on the boat lift and reved the engine to about 2700 RPM+. I still feel the vibration. Maybe not exactly to the same degree, but I feel it in the floor and throughout the body of the boat. The engine does not misfire, hesitate, and runs very smoothly. The props are confirmed good. The lower shaft spins straight. What now?

I am a new sea ray owner........what do you all suggest that I do :smt017 ? I NEED YOUR HELP (at least some suggestions!)

 

[STIHLBOLTS]

The last thing I did was put the boat on the boat lift and reved the engine to about 2700 RPM+.

Did you have the ear muffs installed and were you running water to the drive and water pump? If not you just fried the impellers.

:smt021

PS: Welcome to the board. :grin:

 

[Alex F]

Tom,

First season I had my boat I had faced similar situation. I couldn't figure it out. The engine worked fine until under some presure at about 2500rpm. It turns out to be one spark plug wire came off just a little not to be noticable and the angine didn't feel one missing cylinder until it was under presure. Try to inspect your plugs and wires. If all wires are in place check each plug and make sure it's in good condition. Don't use the drive until you're sure that engine is running smoothly. This is to rule out and separate each majore component. If the engine is running smooth on it's own the next test should be having boat in gear and see if the vibration is back. If yes, you know that the drive is now a primary contributer. If out of water use extream caution to avoid excidents. Secure water hose and move everything away. Keep people away.

P.S. If everything above checks out fine and vibration remains, try to test the fan clutch. I had this in my Lincoln towncar (5.o, almost the same engines) years back. Noone could find it even after the tune up. The clutch was slightly misaligned. The only thing is that vibration was noticable even at idle.

Hope you're out of the delemma soon.

Good luick,
Alex.

 

[fragmag]

Wow, nice reply. This is why I signed up :thumbsup:

 

[Dave S]

STHILBOLTS comment about running the engine without water is correct. If you weren't running water to the drive thru muffs, you have probably damaged your sea water impeller and it needs to be replaced before you run the boat again.

You didn't mention which outdrive you have, but if it is a Bravo 3 drive, it is not uncommon to feel a vibration in the 2000-2500 RPM range. Some boats are worse than others. For instance, my current boat is a lot worse than my 240 Sundeck was. Let us know which outdrive you have.

 

[midway]

What engine and drive do you have, that info may help get an answer, just enter that info in your signature. :grin:

 

[Tom K]

Vibration - Thanks for the comments

First, my 04 Sea Ray has a 5.0L MPI with the Bravo III outdrive. I typed that info on the header line but it didn't appear- sorry.

I read the commment about the spark plug wire and I'll double check that later today.

I made the comment about running the engine while on a boat lift. That is true but I made sure that the outdrive was submerged.

Has anyone ever heard of sea ray installing an incorrect flywheel right from the factory? ie. 350 Mag flywheel intalled on a 305. How about a vibration from a u-joint or an out of alignment of the engine and drive?

Lastly, this vibration is a little too much to be normal, especially for a fine boat like a searay.

Any other ideas? Anyone?

Thanks all for your help!

 

[wish2fish]

Tom,

first most of us put our boat info in our profile signature line so it is always there when you have a question. Wesley is on a rampage right now, so if you want to stay on his good side you better get it done. :grin:


I think the spark plug wire is a good bet. If not....


You said you got the boat with 32 hours on it. Really low for a boat with 2 seasons on it. Possible they had the problem as well and didn't use the boat much. Do you know what service has been done on the boat in the past? Probably worth having the drive alignment checked anyway.

 

[RiverRat]

P.S. If everything above checks out fine and vibration remains, try to test the fan clutch. Alex.

I don't think they use those on boats... :wink: But it did bring something to mind. I'm curious if this may be a harmonic balancer issue??? (just a guess at this point) If not I'd be looking at a driveline related issue.

Have you tried taking it to a mechanic to get his opinion?

 

[widowmaker]

I believe the engine/drive alignment is a 20 or 100 hour recommended service item that should be done, although I haven't had it done myself. As the engine and drive "break-in" I believe they may shift just a little and that is why they recommend it. Mine runs very smooth through all rpm's. I'd have it looked at by a good mechanic. Do you have an extended warranty? Check for coverage. If the engine isn't misfiring or running rough I'd doubt it is engine related. Let us know what you find out!

 

[Tom K]

Vibration

I don't think the problem is related to the ignition system but I'll check for a misfire.

I have a call into the previous owner to see if he admits to any issue relating to this vibration. I left the message yesterday am and no reply as of now.

Next, if you all agree, I should take it to a mechanic to have the outdrive pulled and aligned and have u-joint checked.

Am I missing anything?

PS. I did put the model and engine info on the signature line in the original message but it moved off the screen when I accidently tryed to add color and size to the font.........I'm new to SeaRays & this site. I'll get the hang of it!

Thanks for all the good comments........I'll take more!

 

[Searay Jim]

If nothing is obvious, I would be looking at the alignment first and foremost. It's not uncommon at all to be out of alignment early on. Merc's motor mounts suck to say the least. If the tabs on the washers are crimped right, you're OK, but there is enough slack that tapping opposite sides down will still leave enough slack to let the nut vibrate down.

You might be able to see if it's really far out but looking at the motor mounts and see if you can tell if the tabs have bent out far enough for the nut to spin past; it doesn't take much.

If you see one side or the other has obviously dropped, the top nut usually does not move so you can bring the bottom nut back up and snug it. I use a c-clamp to pinch the washer tabs on both sides down at the same time to it's solid.

Otherwise, I'd have the drive pulled and alignment checked. Mine was way out at 85 hours. The dealer didn't crimp the tabs down like they should at that point, and 80 hours later I spun the coupler. :smt009

Since someone already caught the fan clutch comment, I'll be quiet. :grin:

 

[midway]

Tom check the last post in this thread, it will guide you where to put the boat info.

http://www.byowneryachts.com/forums...0&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=

 

[Dave S]

One final thing to check is the prop alignments on your Bravo III. Turn the back prop so there is one blade pointed toward the ground. Now look at the front prop. It should have one blade pointed straight up at the cavitation plate. The blades will now be in the "clover overlap" position which is what you want to see. If the front blade is any other position you need to remove it and put it back on so a blade is pointed straight up on the front prop while the back prop has a blade pointed straight down. The reason you need to "time" the props like this is so you don't have two blades crossing under the cavitation plate at the same time. Untimed props can give you a vibration caused by turbulence from two blades crossing directly under the cavitation plate at the same time. I had experienced this on my 240SD when my blades were not timed. After mounting them in the correct fashion, this vibration pretty much went away.

 

[Tom K]

Thanks All for the for the comments. Dave S, I'll try the timing and positioning of the props. I had them balanced but may have them out of time when I installed them.

I just got a response by email from SeaRay Corp. They said it is likely an alignment problem and/or coupler (I know these things were mentioned by you all). She said I should take it to the dealer.

Since the vibration is felt when in nuetral, it makes sense that the next step would be motor mounts loose, alignment or the coupler.

Any other ideas before I take it to the local dealer?

You guys are great........Thanks a million to all that responded!

Tom K

 

[Searay Jim]

I think you're right on with the alignment which involves all the things you mentioned like motor mounts and coupler.

The only other thing I thought about after posting before was to make sure you're trimming out. It's one of the obvious things that sometimes gets over-looked, usually by new boaters.

With my trim sender out, I have to trim by feel and sound and I can definitely hear and feel when I'm not trimmed out enough. Sometimes I lose bearings and I'll trim down until I feel the vibration and hear the strain then I know whee I am so I can trim out.

New trim sender kit is in hand and just needs to be installed! :grin:

FYI, I'd get the alignment checked before running the boat. If it is out of alignment, the longer you run it the more wear you'll put on the splines in the coupler but you can catch it soon enough to be OK even if there is some wear. If it spins, you risk also damaging the drive shaft which is another $100+ in parts on top of the R&R of the engine and the $350-$400 for the coupler.

 

[Alex F]

P.S. If everything above checks out fine and vibration remains, try to test the fan clutch. Alex.

I don't think they use those on boats... :wink: But it did bring something to mind. I'm curious if this may be a harmonic balancer issue??? (just a guess at this point) If not I'd be looking at a driveline related issue.

Have you tried taking it to a mechanic to get his opinion?

RiverRat,
I was on the right track but frased it wrong. I clicked the submit before I had realized that there's no clutch on boat engine.

The idea is trying to run the engine with disconnecting some of the components (in my example with car was clutch, alternator, etc.). This test could work only if there's a way to get the water circulation going. Just an idea, but it saved me lots of $$$ when I had the issue.

Thx,
Alex.

 

[Tom K]

Thanks Jim & Alex for you thoughts. I think my trim and settings are ok.

I just talked to another I/O expert on the telephone. His guess is that I have a ignition or fuel injection misfire (most likely ignition). I know this was already suggested by a respondant.......I hope this is all it is.

He thought that is was unlikely that I have a problem with alignment, coupler or u-joint. (I like this guy already!)

I hired him to come next week Wed to take a look and drive the boat for his assessment

I will let you all know what happened!

Thanks again for all of your help and advice everyone!

Tom K

 

[Tom K]

Status - Vibration 5.0L B3 04 200 select

As of this morning, I have the boat at home, the complete outdrive is diconnected from the boat. The u-joint and all with the outdrive parts appear in good condition. The gimbel bearing feels tight and well greased. I ran the engine (placing a water hose in the inlet hole) and, you guesed it............the virbration is still there :smt013 !

What's left :huh: ? Fly wheel and coupler right? Anything else guys?

 

[widowmaker]

Sorry you're having problems. Is this still under warranty? If so send to dealer. This should not be happening with so low of hours. Let us know what you find out.