Valve cover removal

[oknoproblem]

Hi, new guy to this forum. Have an '89 340EC w/7.4 L. FWC engines. Want to adjustment the valves on the engines, (slight knock) have done this with other BB engines in the past, just not in a marine application. Question is, can you remove the valve covers without having to remove the manifolds and risers? Sure would make this job a lot easier! Thanks in advance.:thumbsup:

Dave

 

[oknoproblem]

OK, so is this post in the wrong place? Or has this ever be atempted? I can't believe there are no replies :huh:

 

[Quint4]

Give it a few days...jeez...be patient. I am unsure of the answer or I would offer advice.

 

[Mike-n-Jolie]

Is your engine equipped with hyd. lifters? If so then "adjusting" the valves may not help or might actually make it worse(collapsed lifter). I've never had to do it so I don't know the answer. I would try to pull the covers off without removing the risers first. If they won't come off then pull the risers(might be good to inspect them anyways).

 

[oknoproblem]

Thanks Quint,

Patient is one thing I can be, just didn't want to have this linger in the wrong section of the forum.

Dave

 

[J Levine]

You can remove the valve covers without removing the risers, I had to do it a few weeks ago. Get your self a 1/4" drive flex socket and and extension. On my motor the bolts are 3/8" (I think). I dont know if your valves are adjustable you should check one of the online parts houses and look at the parts diagram to see what type of lifters and rockers you have. Mine are hydaulic and the rockers are mounted on ball studs that you just snug down to 40 ft lbs.... no adjustment

 

[oknoproblem]

Thanks for the posts folks!
This is a new engine, had it out for the first time last week and it developed a slight knock after its first break-in run. They are hydraulic lifters, not solid, and I’m going to use the installation adjustment sequencing for adjusting hydraulic lifters when they are first installed. But I'm with you guys, hydraulic lifters should not need adjustment if had been installed/loaded correctly the first time, and if that were the case I wouldn't have to go back in and fine tune. Trouble is, I'm not sure it was done correctly the first time.
Now, to further understand the “flex socket” terminology. Is this a 3/8” socket on a ¼ “drive with a flexible shaft, or is a “universal” on the end of the extension, sorry, don’t quite understand the terminology flex socket.
Thanks again.

Dave

 

[Gunn]

I had to readjust some hydraulic lifters on a small block I rebuilt some years ago. I just must not have snugged down a couple of them correctly.

For a Chevy with hydraulic lifters, you usually loosen the nut, then roll the pushrod between your fingers, tightening until you feel resistance (not to forget having that valve completely closed!). Then anywhere from another 1/4--3/4 turn on the ratchet puts in the necessary pre-load of the lifter. Depending on where you read, that will be a different value. Never heard of 40ft.lbs though. That seems way too much...then the valve would never close!

 

[oknoproblem]

Gunn-
Your method is the one I will be using, except for a Big Block we need to go a full turn after friction is sensed on the pushrod. The other method mentioned by J Levine is also an excepted method, given that he has a different type of post on his rocker arm. If I remember correctly there is actually a special nut below the rocker arm that holds the rocker in place and you tighten the upper nut to 40ft lbs. This method is even mentioned in some of the Mercrusier manuals, depending on which engine application you have.

 

[J Levine]

Either a flexible socket or a universal joint will work. I used a universal joint. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[oknoproblem]

All-
Thanks for all your inputs, I really appreciate it. This is a great forum, lots of knowledgeable folks out there, keep the information flowing!

Dave

 

[douglee25]

After the pushrod stops spinning, 1 complete turn on the rocker arm nut is acceptable on a big block.

Doug