vacuflush maintenance suggestions

[J Levine]

I know this subject is not new but I am having a hard time searching it on the site. I have 1995 370 that I bought in 2004. The vacuflush has worked flawlessly for 4 season which is quite a feat given that I have never touched it, have no idea if and when it was ever serviced and, by the way, I have three kids under the age of 8 that give the system a major work out. It is not uncommon for me to have to pump my optional 40 gallon holding tank (no not the standard 28 gallon tank on a 95 370) ever three weeks or so durring the season.

So now I want to spend some time and money during the off season in an attempt to avoid having a in-service failure on some hot August afternoon when working on this system is at its worst.

Again the system works great. The pump clears the head with out issue and never runs except when it is being flushed.

When I got the boat in 04, I contacted Sea Ray and used their guidance to add the optional discharge pump to the boat. This was neccessary as the area we were boating in at the time had very poor access to pump outs so dumping the tank off shore was a common practice. After I moved the boat in 2005 I have never used the discharge pump since so I am not concerned with it. Since the "T" discharge pump is the same (except for the additionnal set of duck bill valves) to the "S" pump, I have always figured that if I needed to rob a part to keep the "S" pump working I could.

Anyway, what do you guys recommend? I know changing the 4 duck bill valves in the "S" pump is deffinately in order. But what about the other "kits" that are available:

http://www.sealandtechnology.com/prodrplc.asp

I am thinking that I should install the flush ball and shaft kit along with a new water valve.

What about the vacuum/discharge pump repair kit?

I also see two seal kits, do I need these if I take this thing apart?

I hate to take this thing apart as I firmly practice the "dont fix if it ain't broke" approach to life but I fear I am running on borrowed time unless I do some preventative mainteance on this system.

Appreciate your thoughts and recomendations.

 

[Hampton]

I owned a '97 250 for over 10 years and never serviced the head. It received less use, which is probably worse. Don't get me wrong, I admire your initiative. Just an input.

 

[Four Suns]

I would leave things like the water valves and ball valves alone. If they work, don't mess with them. These systems are pretty simple and the "wear" items are really the rubber parts. I usually end up picking things out of the duck bill valves at least once every two years so I just replace them "because" I'm in there. So goes life with kids and their friends.... our system also gets a lot of use.

The rubber seals on the toilets are replaced if your toilet will not hold water or if your toilet develops a strange "oder". The rubber seal around the ball valve on the toiled is actually two pieces (like two pancakes on top of each other with a hole in the middle for the ball valve). If anyone leaves waste in the toilet without flushing, it can get in between the rubber seals and smell bad. That, however, is not "catastrophic" and can be replaced when they go bad... they can also leak...

It is a good idea, however, to carry a water valve and ball valve assembly as a spare... along with some duck bill valves and a bellows assembly.... Losing the toilet on a cruise is very bad.

 

[Jaws]

I rebuilt part of the Vacuflush system on our last boat shortly after purchase and it's not too difficult a task as long as you are able to remove the pump motor assembly. Take it to the workbench and make sure the bellows is properly attached. After cleaning, attach a 12 volt source and check its operation. I sprayed the bellows and moving parts with silicone spray and it worked nicely for several years after. You can easily replace the duckbills at that time before re-installing the motor assembly in the boat.

One bit of preventive maintenance that I heard about was to flush an ounce or two of heavy mineral oil (from the pharmacy) through the toilet a couple of times a season thinking this might lubricate the duckbills. I don't know if this is proper or not but the system worked fine.

 

[J Levine]

Thanks Gary,

I have ordered the duck bills for replacement and the ball valve, water valve and bowl seal to keep aboard if I have problems. I can alwasys swap the guts out of my newer "T" pump into my "S" pump if a run into any pump problems. I am going to do this in Feb so hopfully the smell wont be too bad.

 

[Robski97]

IT cant be said enough... when pumping out or getting ready too , flush as much water thru the head as possible. At the end of a trip or wekend .. Ill flush each head and just let the water run for like 15 - 30 secs... ( trying to rinse the nasty's )

two years a go a corn kearnel wedged in a duck bill.. A SINGLE KERNAL. Corn is now band from the boating menu....

Rob

 

[skolbe]

It's not too bad to tear down the pump at the beginning of the season. Tearing it down in August is not fun. Especially when I broke the pressure vacuum switch. I have a spare switch if anyone needs one. This was on the 260. I like to fill the bowl at the end of the weekend and then flush to clean out the valves.

 

[250SLX]

I am looking at a 2002 with a pump out head and a 2003 with the vacu flush option and a 10 gallon tank. I have never owned a boat with a head before. Is the vacu flush worth it?
I am looking at a 240.

 

[Fishnut]

I am looking at a 2002 with a pump out head and a 2003 with the vacu flush option and a 10 gallon tank. I have never owned a boat with a head before. Is the vacu flush worth it?
I am looking at a 240.

If you get a 240 get the vacu flush. I did and the captain of the ship has been very happy with that choice. The money is worth every penny. You will thank yourself over and over again.

 

[sbw1]

The only thing I would add are two tips that came with my Sealand owner manual. Flush with the power turned off so you lose the vacuum. Then, once a month, fill the bowl with water to the top and pour in a cup of Tide powdered detergent with no bleach. Do a quick partial flush with the power to the head still turned off. Let it sit for awhile and then repower and cycle the head. Sealand also recommends depressing the flush pedal for 60 seconds while you are pumping out to give everthing a thorough rinse. As others have said, these things really work trouble free. We live on our boat about 40 days a year. The only problem I've had was an olive pit getting stuck against the rubber diaphram that triggers the pump. The pit punctured the rubber and the head could not maintain a vacuum. Even then we were able to use the head by turning on the power when needed until I could replace the part.

 

[JAndrewG]

Sbw1's tips are right on the money. Also, as mentioned, a bit of mineral or vegetable oil in the bowl every so often is a good thing to help keep the rubber seal lubed and sealing well.

On that subject, I recently changed the rubber seal after the old one got torn similar to sbw1's. The new one has a slippery coating that the old one (about 4 years old) did not. It allows the round nylon valve to slide against it much easier, even when dry. It should be even more trouble free than before, and this from a system that is wonderfully simple in the first place.

 

[Fishnut]

The only thing I would add are two tips that came with my Sealand owner manual. Flush with the power turned off so you lose the vacuum. Then, once a month, fill the bowl with water to the top and pour in a cup of Tide powdered detergent with no bleach. Do a quick partial flush with the power to the head still turned off. Let it sit for awhile and then repower and cycle the head. Sealand also recommends depressing the flush pedal for 60 seconds while you are pumping out to give everthing a thorough rinse.

That sounds like a good regiment for maintaining the system. Thanks. :smt038

 

[Four Suns]

They also don't like dental floss being flushed down them....

 

[Alex F]

Dave,

I totally agree with Fishnut. Vacuflush is something that gets used a lot and it doesn't take too long to see how it pays for itself. The simple fact from my experiance is that if you provide maximum comfort on your boat your family would want to spend more time on it, hense extending your boating season. I'm sure you'd like that.

Alex.

 

[Skuza]

The last ball seal that I installed was a different design than previous ones. It was not the two "pancake" style seals that you lay on top of each other(in the proper orientation too I might add). It was a hard plastic, single layer peice of plastic with a green rubber seal mounted in the center. Basically a one piece desing instead of two. I believe it was an original Sealand part so I'm guessing its been redesigned. Has anyone else put one in this style?
By the way we have never had any major disasters or maintenace issues in the past 6 seasons with our boat. Only an occasional plug that seems to only plague the aft head. I think the plug was always in the pump as it would not create vacuum. I was somehow able to cycle the pump by pulling a connecting wire on the motor and "cycling" it and miraculuosly it has worked twice. I suggest trying my method before tearing it down. I have been blessed so far that I have not had to take apart duck bills. My method took some time but worked. My theory was trying to start the pump at just the right moment that it would dislodge whatever was stuck.
I would just keep a water valve and extra seals as these are quick repairs you would WANT to do while away from the dock. Anything else is going to be an in depth, smelly repair!

 

[Leedhn]

I am new to Sea Ray and the vacuflush system. I have not seen any reference to holding tank chemicals.I assume we just run with water and follow sugguestions from Sea land on Tide/etc.

Lee

 

[sbw1]

I am new to Sea Ray and the vacuflush system. I have not seen any reference to holding tank chemicals.I assume we just run with water and follow sugguestions from Sea land on Tide/etc. Lee

We do not use any chemicals and just change the charcoal filter once a year. This works fine for our boat which gets a lot use from April to October. Others seem to strongly advocate for chemicals but maybe living in Florida, Alabama or Texas where it is hotter than Michigan dictates a different approach.

 

[tobnpr]

Holding tanks/ pumpout? Am I the only one that likes an onboard treatment system?

 

[Luckydogs]

Thought I would bump this seeing that I have a seal issue this year. The system will not hold a vacuum and I am losing water from the bowl. So, I know I have a bad ball(?) seal but where can I purchase a replacement and how easy is it to replace.

It's a Sealand, not sure of the model #

Thanks
Tommy

 

[sbw1]

We buy our parts at Northshore Marina where we store. Pretty sure most full service marinas have the common stuff. You will need a model number because the package states which heads the seal will work on.