Trim Tab Recomendation for a 1989 230CC

[230CC]

Trim tabs were standard on my boat if it came with the 454. I have the 350, and the original owner did not opt for them. Most times the boat is just fine and I don't think I really need them. But from personal experience I added Bennetts to my 1988 Baja sunsport and it was night and day. So I am toying with the idea of adding them to the 230 but I am tying to figure out what size. The big thing is they are gonna be Bennetts, and I I know I want the Black ones like I put on my Baja back in the day.

 

[Tabman]

Trim tabs were standard on my boat if it came with the 454. I have the 350, and the original owner did not opt for them. Most times the boat is just fine and I don't think I really need them. But from personal experience I added Bennetts to my 1988 Baja sunsport and it was night and day. So I am toying with the idea of adding them to the 230 but I am tying to figure out what size. The big thing is they are gonna be Bennetts, and I I know I want the Black ones like I put on my Baja back in the day.

I think that we supplied custom 10" x 12" Trim Tabs for the 230 back in the day.

If I was going to install Trim Tabs on that boat and had my heart set on black powder coated ones (they do look great!) I would use the 10" x 12" Tournament Tabs BT1012.

I hope this is helpful, let me know if you have any questions.

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine

 

[230CC]

Tom,

Thanks for the reply, there wouldn't happen to be some N.O.S. of the Sea Ray spec tabs laying around there at Bennett (long shot but I have to ask)? On my 20 foot Baja I had the ST9 sport tabs. I was very happy with these, I assume however these are two small for this size boat, I really did love the look of them though, and being a trailer boat that does factor into it for me, the looks that is. My boat does run in the 40 - 45 mph range, so I am wondering if the Sport Tab might be better suited.

Also on another question and maybe email would be better. We have been working to get my Dad's trim tabs working on his Sea Ray 31 SS. It is a Bennett system with the twin ram tabs on it, so 4 actuators total, 2 on each side. They are the factory installed ones. We can't get the tabs to run separate, they both run not matter which switch is hit, so it's either in the switch, harness or pump assembly. Is there a trouble shooting guide available.

Thanks again for your help.

 

[techmitch]

These may help untill Tom checks back in.

http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/videoplayer.php?vID=10

http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/videolibrary.php?tID=6

 

[Tabman]

I can look and see if we have any of those Trim Tabs on Tuesday or Wednesday when the office is open after the Christmas break but you would still need to buy the rest of the system from a dealer. Frankly the BT1012 (powder coated) or the M120 (non-powder coated) are a better design then the ones that were used originally and I would really recommend them.

The links that techmitch posted are an excellent place to start troubleshooting. Below you will find written troubleshooting that you can print and take to the boat.

When I hear that both sides are working at the same time I almost always find out that the valves on the pump for the hydraulic lines are damaged or the internal parts have been installed incorrectly. An easy way to test this is to run both Trim Tabs all the way down and leave them there for a few hours. If the valves are not working correctly the Trim Tabs will retract on their own.

Inside the solenoid valves are a spring, plunger, O-ring, valve seat and quad ring. Take a look at this drawing and you can see how they are arranged in the valve body.

If the Trim Tabs retract when you leave them down, take the valves off and see if they are in the correct order and that there are no cracks or debris on the valve seats. Then reassemble (take care to screw the valve bodies only finger tight) and see if this solves the problem.

Let me know what you find.

Tom
Bennett Marine


Fluid: Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) any type. Hydraulic Power Unit is self bleeding, running the Trim Tabs up and down 3-4 times will purge air from the system.

Fuse: 12 volt system use 20 amp in-line fuse on positive. (24v & 32v use proportionately smaller)

Red= Port Valve
Green= Starboard Valve
Blue=Motor Forward (pump pressure)
Yellow= Motor Reverse (pump retract)
Black on HPU=Ground
Orange on Helm=Control Positive

Troubleshooting

1.If one side is not operating reverse hydraulic lines on the front of the Hydraulic Power Unit to determine if the malfunction is in HPU or actuator / hydraulic lines. If after reversing the lines symptom shifts to the other side the malfunction may exist in HPU. If the symptom remains on the same side, malfunction may exist with the actuator / hydraulic lines

2. Is the unit receiving a solid 12 volts? Low voltage will some times cause the solenoids to not open preventing the tabs from moving even though the pump motor is running.

3. Conduct the following test:
Remove the wires from the helm control and touch together as follows:
Operation=Reaction
Orange (+), blue, red= Port trim tab down
Orange (+), blue, green=Starboard trim tab down
Orange (+), blue, red, green= Both trim tabs down
Orange (+), yellow, red= Port trim tab up
Orange (+), yellow, green=Starboard trim tab up
Orange (+), yellow, red, green= Both trim tabs up

If the trim tabs function correctly for each wire grouping then the switch is at fault. Also note that any loose or missing screws on the back of the switch (whether a wire is connected there or not) can cause the pump to malfunction.

This test may also be done right at the pump by substituting a "hot lead" for orange. There is usually a connector to the wire harness within a foot or so of the pump. You want to check this connection for corrosion. You may wish to cut the connector off on the pump side and try the test on bare wires.

4. If you suspect corrosion on the wire connector near the pump, cut it out, test as above and reconnect using butt splices.

5. If you conclude the problem is in the pump, contact me. Bennett Trim Tab Systems carry a five year warranty.

6. Check to see if there is a relay in line on the wiring harness near the hydraulic power unit. If there is it is an Interrupter Relay (IR1000). It prevents the system fuse from blowing if you try to actuate one trim tab up and the other down at the same time. After you test as outlined above, try removing the relay from the wiring harness and retest the unit.(Note: the interrupter relay is no longer used in current Bennett Trim Tab systems and has been replaced with a Switches that "lock out" preventing a blown fuse).

 

[230CC]

Tom,

Thanks for the diagnosis guide. Just talked to my father, and his boat is in the 4 level of his rack building for the winter so no access till spring. I guess him and I will go though it then.

Any luck on the NOS tabs for the 230CC? Thanks again.

Patrick

 

[Tabman]

Patrick,

I was waiting to hear back from you, no luck with that style Trim Tab. But as I mentioned before the M120 or BT1012 would be a better choice and would actually cost less to buy even if we had had some of those old ones.

Let me know what your Dad finds in the spring!

Tom
Bennett Marine

 

[230CC]

Tom,

Thanks I will look into those, but please explain how the Batwing design helps. Does it actually give me more area pushing against the water? I am not completely sold on them.

How would the ST12's work on this boat? I really like the look of them, I can get a good price on them, almost the same as the M120's. Don't know that I need the dual rams but man do they look good, would these be over kill on this boat?

Patrick

 

[Tabman]

Patrick,

The M120 and the BT1012 have small downward facing fins that capture the water pressure that normally escapes out the sides of the Tab and channels it aft to increase lift. They have about the same lift as a 12 x 12. Since they need a little less real-estate on the transom they usually don't require moving the transducer out of the way.

While you really don't need the dual actuators on the ST12, you could install them with only one actuator per Tab. The holes for the 2 actuators are evenly spaced so you just mount the single one in the middle 2 holes and leave the outboard ones empty. You would just have 2 left over actuators and the plumbing for the duals. Heck you could probably sell the left over actuators on E-Bay and make a few bucks back

Happy New Year!
Tom
Bennett Marine