Trim Pump Repair Circuit vs Continuity Tester

[LIBillsfan]

I am diagnosing a problem with my trim pump for a Bravo III outdrive and need to test the solinodes because the outdrive will not go down. I am using a circuit tester to determine where the problem lies but I was wondering what the difference between that and the continuity testers is. I know when using the circuit tester you ground the tester on the engine and then stick the tester on the positive of whatever you are testing but can I hook the tester directly to the battery just to see if it works or will I blow the tester up.
Also if anyone has any information about common problems associated with these trim pumps or how to drain the system so I can put fresh fluid in there I would love any help that anyone can give me. Also I do have water in the system because the fluid is all cloudy is this more likely leaky trim cylindersor could it just be that the pump itself has gotten wet. Thanks for all your help.:grin::smt043

 

[Lazy Daze]

It's best to use a ground on the engine (or the trim pump bracket).

A continuity (AKA resistance, Ohms... if you want to do some googling) test MUST be done with NO voltage present. If power is present, at a bare minimum you will blow the fuse in your meter. A continuity test basically looks for open/closed circuits or breaks in wires/bad connections.

What happens if you jump the Up (blue) and down (green) circuit?

Does the pump make any noise at all? Or, does it make noise, but does the drive just not move?

I'm not the best when it comes to electrical diagnosis, but hopefully... (1) This answers your question, and (2) some more qualified people will help, too.

 

[Gunn]

I know when using the circuit tester you ground the tester on the engine and then stick the tester on the positive of whatever you are testing but can I hook the tester directly to the battery just to see if it works or will I blow the tester up.

You can place the circuit tester on the battery directly and it won't blow up. You're giving it 12 volts when doing that, same as checking the ciruit anywhere else.

how to drain the system so I can put fresh fluid in there

Maybe a turker baster?! I think you need to suck the fluid out, there is no drain.

I had my -up- trim solenoid go bad on my boat. Diagnosed it easily enough following instructions in the Mercruiser service manual.

 

[Lazy Daze]

You can place the circuit tester on the battery directly and it won't blow up.

Correct - I should have been more specific. I simply meant it's "best" since that will allow you to verify the ground circuit at the same time.

 

[LIBillsfan]

When I trim down the pump just clicks but there is no movement of the outdrive. Thanks for your help.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Last Fall, had a similar issue with my dad's boat. I forget which direction it would go or not go, but the problem was with only one direction. Turned out to be a loose connection at the battery. It would allow 12v and enough amps to power the solenoid (to make it click), but apparently the bad connection didn't allow enough power to go through to power the pump. If nothing is loose - try cleaning all the connections.

Why this loose connection only affected the pump in one direction... I don't know.