Trim Limit Switch

Adam-swf

New Member
Dec 13, 2016
29
Bradenton, FL
Boat Info
1998 Sea Ray 270da Sundancer
Engines
7.4 Mercruiser w/Bravo III
Hi, I tried to do all the research I could before asking but I'm stumped.

I'm replacing the factory control which had a trim up and down switch n the throttle handle lever and if you pushed up further the trailer switch would engage.

The trim up button didn't function on my boat when I bought it so now seemed like a good time to address that. I disconnected what I believe to be the trim limit switch, it was two black wires plugged into a violet and blue wire coming out of a harness at the back of the engine. I jumped the blue and violet wires but the trim up still does not work. I also tested for 12v at the violet wire (assumed this is the same wire at the control) but nothing.

If I connect 12v to the blue wire at the control the drive trims up but if I connect violet to 12v I get nothing. Pretty confused at this point. Any ideas? Below are the wires I suspected to be the trim limit switch. The other pair of wires coming out of that area went to a black and brown/white which appears to be for the (working) gauge. Thanks!

 
The trim limit switch on the drive is just that... a position sensitive switch. If you try to eliminate it, you wont know the difference between trim limit and trailer position. For proper operation, don't replace the "factory control" switch at the throttle... replace the switch/sensor at the drive. They are certainly prone to failure as they are subject to the seas and they will eventually corrode and fail over time.
 
Hi, thanks for the feedback. I may not have been clear, sorry. I'm replacing the factory control because it's old and it seemed a new one with new cables are in order. At the same time I am attempting to repair the non-functional trim limit switch. As part of the troubleshooting process I have attempted to bypass the trim limit switch, but the results were unexpected and I'm unsure how to troubleshoot further or if I'm even looking at the correct wires.


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Start by measuring the resistance between the 2 black wires when they are disconnected from the violet and blue wires. When the drive is down there should be close to zero ohms between them. When the drive is up they should be open circuit.
 
I had your same issue-drive would not trim up, but I could use the tilt function to trim up. My gauge was also not reading. After much research, it became very obvious that the "hockey pucks" mounted on the port and starboard side of the OD fail at a 100% rate. Mine were about 8-9 years old at the time, so I elected to replace. The OEM kit was about $120 if I remember right. 95% of what I read said that the drive needed to be removed to install. A member here found a post on another site where someone had done the job without removing the OD. After reading and studying things, I elected to try. I cut down a 7/16" socket to make it shorter and purchased a 12"-1/4" drive ext and went to work.

About an hour to install and 15 mins to adjust-has worked flawlessly since.

Bennett
 
Start by measuring the resistance between the 2 black wires when they are disconnected from the violet and blue wires. When the drive is down there should be close to zero ohms between them. When the drive is up they should be open circuit.

Hi Westie, I'm getting similar readings to those. 1 or 2 ohms trimmed down then ol as I trim up.


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Hi Westie, I'm getting similar readings to those. 1 or 2 ohms trimmed down then ol as I trim up.
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Ok then it is not the limit switch in the drive. You should also be able to bypass the trim limit switch like you did and have it trim up. It's either in the switch itself or in the wing between the switch and where you disconnected the trim switch.
 
Ok then it is not the limit switch in the drive. You should also be able to bypass the trim limit switch like you did and have it trim up. It's either in the switch itself or in the wing between the switch and where you disconnected the trim switch.

Thank you for that info. It appears I may have a wiring issue. If I put a test light on the purple wire in the back of the engine and apply a good 12 V from the switch, the test light does not come on. I verified that it is the correct purple wire by using a tone generator. I am not able to trim up when the wires are jumpered, but I can using the trailer circuit, or blue wire. Very odd!


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When you push the trim up button you should see 12 volts at the connector at the back of the engine. Sounds like you have a broken wire somewhere.
 
When you push the trim up button you should see 12 volts at the connector at the back of the engine. Sounds like you have a broken wire somewhere.

No I don't get 12 V when I press the switch up. I went and ran a wire temporarily from the Home switch and connected it to the trim limit switch and it worked. It only let me raise it for about 10 seconds, so perhaps it was out of adjustment. But you are right, apparently the purple wire from the switch at the home to the trim limit switch is bad. Wow that is not what I was expecting. I appreciate your help with this.


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No I don't get 12 V when I press the switch up. I went and ran a wire temporarily from the Home switch and connected it to the trim limit switch and it worked. It only let me raise it for about 10 seconds, so perhaps it was out of adjustment. But you are right, apparently the purple wire from the switch at the home to the trim limit switch is bad. Wow that is not what I was expecting. I appreciate your help with this.


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UntitledPR2_zpsvjffarsf.jpg

If you follow the power , the trim button or switch powers the purple wire that goes to the limit switch, once the limit switch has reached its limit to apply power to the blue/white wire to raise the drive the rest of the way to trailer position
 

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