Trim and Trailer Button

millz90

millz90

New Member
Oct 1, 2009
175
North Carolina
Boat Info
1995 Sea Ray 175
Engines
3.0 Mercruiser Alpha I
ok i know there are a million questions around this but i have tried everything and i know there is another way to test it but I am not sure what it is.....

the trailer button nor the up button the throttle will lift the drive?
What could it be?
i replaced the slave solenoid with the green wire going to it and i also replaced the slave solenoid with the blue wire going to it.....i put brand new trim sender and limit senders on last fall....all it does it click when you push the up button or the trailer button.......

Once i replaced the bottom solenoid (with the green wire) i hit the up button on the throttle and it started to go up...i let go of the up button and again it just clicks now.......
PLEASE HELP!!!!
 
Sounds to be an intermittent + and/or - main power supply. The fact that your getting the sol's to click indicates the pilot system from the control switch is working.

I had similar problem this spring when getting my boat up and running. Mine turned out to be intermittent connections from main power supply at the sol lugs themselves. Cleaning my connections and installing star lock washers got mine going.
 
Well i just put the New Solenoid on last night and the connections looked correct and they are all tight? There are no lock washers on them though....do you think the lock washers missing could be the problem?
 
Sounds to me more like a bad connection or corroded connectors. Star lock washers will "dig in" a bit but I'd guess your problem is somewhere else. Look under the crimped end of the connectors, maybe you only have a few strands of wire left and not enough to have the power it needs. Check the ground of the solenoids, if thats dirty you will get click only.
Good Luck!!
 
If it was the ground it wouldnt click at all would it? The sound is strong/loud....and before i changed the lower Solinoid it would work sometimes after i hit the button a hundred times.....

Also, can some one tell me which wires run the up and which ones run the down? Green = Up
Blue = Down
Is that correct?
 
Green is down. Blue is up. Colors should remain consistent at sol's for smaller and larger wires. Also upper and lower mounted sol's correspond with function

Take a jumper wire from batt hot and touch the small/large colored wires at sol's till you can figure out where your problem is. Keep in mind you have a small electrical plug for the small wires right there at the pump area. Also keep in mind you have a main power supply bridge right at the sol's.

Post back if your still stumped. I'll try to help more.
 
The ground or positive could be connected but not enough to supply the load required, hence dirty or broken connections. I can't remember which color is which but another way to test if the solenoid is bad is to cross the main posts with a wrench or screwdriver. If it moves then your solenoid or switch is faulty. If it doesn't move then your problem lies withing the pump motor itself (or again bad connections). However, not likely in this case as your down is working. Be sure to have your engine compartment well ventilated before making any potential sparks.
 
3 wires go to pump. I should probably say don't hot wire to the Black ground wire. I'm sure you know how to test the ground.
 
actually im not sure how to test the ground....I will take the hot from the battery to the green post and then the blue post and see what happens.
to check the ground though im not sure how to do that.....
 
To test ground: Simply give it one from the neg side of batt to the ground area of the pump mount (large black wire from pump and small black wire from sol's are all together here).

I would first take a hot (positive) jumper wire from batt pos post to small blue/green wires at sol's. If ok, you will trouble shoot the small wire side. If not ok you will take your hot jumper to the large blue/green wires of the sol's. If still not ok you will move to trouble shoot the ground. When you test the motor direct, only run it for a sec. Your wire will heat up quickly if too small!!

You can get real technical with electrical trouble shoting via voltage drop, exc... The jumper wire bypass method works quick and easy!
 
So i jumped a wire from the positive side of the battery to the big blue wire and the drive went up...i then did the same thing to the green wire and it went down....what does that mean?
Does that mean the problem is in the NEW throttle control i put in?
 
More details.....

I jumped the positive battery to the little green wire and the drive went down....when i jumped the positive battery to the little blue wire it just clicks?

Does that mean the Up Solenoid is bad?
 
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The problem is at the blue sol area. If the sol clicks, then the small wire side is ok(pos/ground). Now make sure your getting a good pos connection from the main pos lead red wire(bridge connection between the two sol's) use the jumper, touch the jumper to the sol stud, not the wire lug! If still no go, you've tested a bad sol. If it works, bad connection. Star lock time.
 
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I dont understand.
When i touched the positive from the battery to the green little wire the drive went down shouldnt the drive go up when i touch the little wire on the blue?

If i understand you right your saying that is ok that the drive is not going up?

SO i should jump the 2 solenoids together? Touch the post on the upper solenoid to the post on the bottom solenoid that DONT have the bigger blue and green wires going to them?
 
Your very close to fixing it: When you touch the jumper wire from pos batt to little blue wire on sol (blue sol), you said you just get a click. Now touch your jumper wire from batt pos to blue sol red wire (opposite side of large blue wire). Make the blue sol click again (use another jumper or the upper controls if there working).

I believe at this point either the blue sol is bad, or you have a bad connection at large red wire to blue sol.

If this makes more sense. Simply use your jumper wire between the two large connections at the blue sol. (large blue wire to large red wire). touch your wire from the threaded stud to threaded stud. Using the threaded stud as a connection point instead of the wire lug tests the connection!

Let me know... I'm still with ya.

You do have a large red wire going to both sol's, correct? (has a little box and strap connecting the two?)
 
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When you jumper to the little blue wire and the solenoid just clicks, and when you jumper to the heavy blue wire and the pump runs, the blue (up) solenoid is sick.

Or you could jumper the 2 heavy terminals on the blue solenoid, and if the pump runs, you have proven the solenoid is faulty.

Usually dirty contacts.

You can open them up an clean the contacts and the copper disc (inside) with a piece of sand paper.

Problem solved :thumbsup:

.
 
New Details.....

This is weird,

Ok...here is what i did...i put a new solenoid on the down trim position...i took the old solenoid from the down position since it worked fine and put it in the up position as i though it was damaged from all of the testing i have done.

What i have now is the up button on the throttle doesnt do anything...no clicks or nothing.....BUT....the trailer button works and lifts the drive......so i put the old solenoid back on and the up button on the throttle doesnt make a sound at all and the now i am just getting a click from the trailer button?


Does that make sense at all?
 
First thing to remember is that if a solenoid clicks and the pump does not run, the solenoid is faulty.

Second, if the trailer switch makes the up solenoid click and the throttle button doesn't, then the limit switch in the outdrive is faulty.

By-pass the limit switch by finding the pair of black wires that come thru the transom (there will be 4 black wires in 2 pairs) that have a male bullet connector on each wire of that pair. They connect to a female connector with a purple and white stripe wire and the other goes to a female connector with 2 wires attached, both blue with a white stripe.

Un-plug the 2 black wires and short together the pur/wht and the blu/wht with a short jumper wire. Both solenoids should click when you operate the switch on the throttle. If one solenoid fails to click, the throttle switch is faulty.
 
ok, i will try this....funny thing is that they both worked becuase i replace the limit and trim sender AND the throttle this past winter...everything is new....i will try the bypass though...maybe it is something in the handle that came lose?
 
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