Trailerable cruiser

Z

zz28zz

New Member
Mar 6, 2022
19
Lake Travis
Boat Info
Boatless
Engines
Boatless
Looking for a twin eng 28-29 ft cruiser with gen and A/C that will fit thru my 12'x12' shop door.
Will most likely be trailered back and forth until a slip opens up which could be a couple of years from now.

The 280/290 Sundancer series caught my eye but I'm getting confused with all the different weights, beam widths and arch configurations I've seen posted online.

I'm not sure how wide I can get away with in Texas w/o an oversize permit. I'm thinking a 9.5' beam would be pushing it. Not really sure.. All my prev boats have been 8' beams.

Any suggestions?
Thx, John
 
We have a '93 Sea Ray 290 DA. It trailers fine on a tri-axle. The beam is around 9 feet. The later models got wider. Our shop door is 15 high x 12' but the boat has a radar on the arch. Otherwise it could go into a 12' high - barely.
 
Look at the 97 270 Sundancer. The unknowable will be how the boat sits on different trailers. SR did not often put a generator in the eight foot beam boats with twins. That would be an impossible bilge to get in.
 
Generally, 8-1/2' wide is the "norm" for legally trailerable. Some states are 8' - I'm not sure if any are 9'. But start by going onto your state's DMV website - you should be able to get the info there. Once you know the law, you can decide where you want to go from there. Some people abide by the law to the "T", others push it a bit... some push it A LOT (you don't want to be in front of these guys!). This has to be YOUR call - you're the one in the driver's seat, not us.

Getting through a 12' high door is going to be tough if you have an arch. In some cases, it MAY just fit if there is NOTHING on top of it. But often, it's going to be closer to at least 12-1/2'. Find one without an arch and you'll be fine - will probably fit with the biminis up - but they are easy to put down if need be. You'll probably need a minimum of 35' to 40' of length in the shop.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Generally, 8-1/2' wide is the "norm" for legally trailerable. Some states are 8' - I'm not sure if any are 9'. But start by going onto your state's DMV website - you should be able to get the info there. Once you know the law, you can decide where you want to go from there. Some people abide by the law to the "T", others push it a bit... some push it A LOT (you don't want to be in front of these guys!). This has to be YOUR call - you're the one in the driver's seat, not us.

Getting through a 12' high door is going to be tough if you have an arch. In some cases, it MAY just fit if there is NOTHING on top of it. But often, it's going to be closer to at least 12-1/2'. Find one without an arch and you'll be fine - will probably fit with the biminis up - but they are easy to put down if need be. You'll probably need a minimum of 35' to 40' of length in the shop.
Click to expand...

Correct at 40. Our shop is 40 feet and it's definitely needed for our boat on the trailer. 35 feet wouldn't work.
 
Shop is 50' deep so no issues there.

I can see how the trailer definitely comes into play when you're only talking about an inch or 2. I've envisioned different ways to make the trailer squat but not sure there's much to be gained with that idea. Could probably get an extra inch or so by partially deflating tires.

I've seen "bridge clearance" and "draft" spec'ed. Could the two be added together along with the keel height above the ground (on trailer) to find the "shop door clearance" height? Is the "bridge clearance" and "draft" spec'ed with the same weight onboard?

The state of Texas is incredibly murky when trying to determine how to get an over-sized permit. May wind up needing a surety bond, an extra insurance policy plus the permit. Really hard to tell by searching the state's website. Lake is only abt 10 mins away but it's a wild twisty road thru hilly terrain with no shoulder and lots of traffic.
 
I used to pull my 27' pontoon boat behind my 36' fifth wheel to the lake, way over legal length, I think it was 82' tip to tail. A trooper friend told me since it was recreational, nobody would ever bother me. That is unless I was in an accident, then I would get a ticket for over length whether I caused the accident or not. I did that for 5 years until I sold pontoon and bought my sea ray, it is way too heavy for the hitch on fifth wheel. This is in rural Oklahoma, we dont really have rules out here. lol
 
zz28zz said:
I've seen "bridge clearance" and "draft" spec'ed. Could the two be added together along with the keel height above the ground (on trailer) to find the "shop door clearance" height? Is the "bridge clearance" and "draft" spec'ed with the same weight onboard?
Click to expand...
Yes, you could add those together. Figure about 24" keel to ground as a general approximation.

Don't make any hard and fast plans on any of these measurements, though - nothing is certain till you have in on the trailer.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Yes, you could add those together. Figure about 24" keel to ground as a general approximation.

Don't make any hard and fast plans on any of these measurements, though - nothing is certain till you have in on the trailer.
Click to expand...
Precisely! The calculation is approximate - you also need the bunk-to-ground measurement for the trailer. What I can tell you with certainty: our 290 DA just clears the arch with the 12' high door opening. With radar on the arch you will need another foot.
 
I tow my 1994 300DA
First off I like trailering it.
I avoid a $4000 annual slip fee, saves a bit on insurance and it's at the house whenever I want to work on it.
never worried about leaving it unattended for weeks or sinking at the dock.

Mine is 12' exactly on the trailer to the top of the arch. I have a folding radar and antenna system but even with that it raises it to 12' 6".

Beam is 10' 6" so I have permits, but an annual permit in South Carolina is just $120.
And in SC flags and signs are not required until 12' wide. I have never been stopped and I pass many LEO.
I mostly tow locally but occasionally to Florida. Then I need single trip permits for Georgia and Florida.

Keep in mind dimensions are only one part of the equation. Weight is another significant consideration.
The published Sea Ray weights are DRY and NO options.
So if the generator is an option that's +350lb
I carry 100lbs of anchor chain.
Water 8.3 lb/gallon (35 Gal)
Gasoline 6.1 lb/gallon (200Gal)
Gear about 1,500 lb
Sea ray says my boat is 8,000lb
I weigh in at 12,500
You need to stay under the Combined Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (CGVWR)
I tow with a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 (3/4 ton) Cummins Diesel. CGVWR is 21,500 I am right at that line.
Vehicle needs to be registered for the CGVWR in most states I'm at 22,000

The trailer is upgraded to electric over hydraulic brakes. Surge brakes only work when the trailer is trying to push the tow vehicle. And they dont work at all backing up (i.e. backing down a ramp)

There is a thread for we that tow over sized.
http://clubsearay.com/index.php?thr...s-see-your-tow-rigs.92274/page-3#post-1181199
 
zz28zz said:
Looking for a twin eng 28-29 ft cruiser with gen and A/C that will fit thru my 12'x12' shop door.
Will most likely be trailered back and forth until a slip opens up which could be a couple of years from now.

The 280/290 Sundancer series caught my eye but I'm getting confused with all the different weights, beam widths and arch configurations I've seen posted online.

I'm not sure how wide I can get away with in Texas w/o an oversize permit. I'm thinking a 9.5' beam would be pushing it. Not really sure.. All my prev boats have been 8' beams.

Any suggestions?
Thx, John
Click to expand...
My 280DA is 12'3 on an Eagle tri-axle. That's with the Glomax antenna taken off and measurement to the top of the mount it sits on.
 
Everyone has a different appetite for trailering. I had a 320 that we trailered. Horrible. Not because of the setup with truck and trailer….it was launching retrieving with wife and kids for the weekend and then doing the opposite at end of the trip. Now with our 360 we obviously don’t trailer. Marina kept and soooo much easier. Turns out we use the boat a great deal more.

With regards to my old 320–height on trailer was 13ft 4in…..beam is 11ft 6in. Of course had to get permits. Wisconsin has a lot of road construction which meant we were re routed many times. Wisconsin has an interactive map for help to plan your routes. Giant pain in my ass. Again, to each their own. It can certainly be done.
26744661-5CFC-43B4-B59E-1635919E1B82.jpeg
 
TTG said:
.it was launching retrieving with wife and kids for the weekend and then doing the opposite at end of the trip. Now with our 360 we obviously don’t trailer. Marina kept and soooo much easier. Turns out we use the boat a great deal more.
Click to expand...

This is so true. When we trailers the 270 we spent 20-25 nights a year on it. When we put the same boat in a permanent slip we instantly spent 60+ nights per year on it. We only had to launch once.

All transport gas and launch fees should be counted against slip fee costs. Then I would account for my time to haul and launch also, that is time I could enjoy the water and that is worth a lot to me.
 
My 2000 310Da. trailers fine but is a huge red flag considering it hang way over the fenders and wheel luckily in the boating community I'm good to go . Never ventured anywhere I needed permits.
IMG_20200403_165601503.jpg
 
Thx for all the great replies! I was thinking about using a 6' piece of rigid pipe (with a level attached) held against the highest point and drop a plumb-bob over the side that's exactly the same height as my door opening. Seems like that would get me pretty close.

I saw where someone on a different thread mentioned making the arch fold-able. Is this really an option? Does the arch provide any structural benefit or is it just for appearance and handy place to mount things to?
 
Our 89 300 DA is 12' 6" on the trailer. Well, according to the previous owner. I guess I should measure it! At 11 feet wide we get a permit for Washington and Idaho and tow to our favorite destinations. a 12 x 12 door really means 11' 6" wide due to the gasket. I have roughly 3 inches on each side when backing up. Fortunately the guy who built my shop had a large motorhome and he increased the inside height and door height to accommodate it. When he built his next shop, he widened the doors on the next shop to 14 feet!
 
Thx for all the good replies. Wish I had went with the 14' door now. Oh well..

I've found a couple of archless Sundancers online. Was that limited to certain years or a maybe a factory option?

Also found a 27' Sundancer called a Special Edition with a 8.5' beam. Anyone familiar with that version?
 
Last edited:
zz28zz said:
Thx for all the good replies. Wish I had went with the 14" door now. Oh well..

I've found a couple of archless Sundancers online. Was that limited to certain years or a maybe a factory option?

Also found a 27' Sundancer called a Special Edition with a 8.5' beam. Anyone familiar with that version?
Click to expand...
Arches... it varied over the years.

Yup, the SE was there for a couple years with an 8'6" beam - at the same time they had a wide-beam 270DA. This was during transition to the '99-'04 260DA and the '01-'09 280DA.
 
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