trailer w/out brakes

frome

New Member
Mar 11, 2009
14
the Oregon coast
Boat Info
2003 176 Bowrider
Engines
3.0L I/O
This is my first post! :thumbsup:
Anyway, I've just bought my first boat: a 2002 Sea Ray 176 with only 118hrs on it. I'm very excited. Taking the testdrive/sail next monday and assuming it's good, payment in full and delivery later that day. Then it becomes my problem which leads to my question:

It's got the original Shoreland'r trailer that came with the boat new, but it doesn't have brakes, surge or otherwise. I'll be using a 2001 Mitsubishi Montero Sport (2WD) to tow it. My truck does not have ABS (only came with the 4WD versions), disc in front, drum rear. Per the manual, the GVWR is 5K lbs., and the max towing capacity is 5K lbs. - with brakes. On a trailer without brakes it says max = 1500lbs. The boat weighs in at 2100lbs., and I figure another 400-500lbs for the trailer. With the 5K max, no problems - but then this trailer doesn't have brakes. I went in to the dealer earlier today (who so far has been very helpful and a great guy) and he told me that most of these smaller trailers didn't have brakes, and then he asked me where I'd be taking it. My (truthful) answer was lakes & rivers within a 1 hour radius of where I live, as there's plenty. No crossing real mountains, although US 101 on the OR coast does have it's gradual ups & downs/twists & turns. He said not to worry about it, as adding brakes to the trailer would run me in the ~$600-700 range, and that I should try driving it around town, etc. and only come back and spend the extra if I really felt I need them. He pointed out that it's the same frame, the same engine, the same tranny, and suggested that Mitsubishi was just covering their butt by downgrading the capacity. If I have to slam on the brakes in an emergency, I'm screwed regardless of whether I have brakes on the trailer or not. This is a salesman who lives on his commission telling me I really don't have to spend the cash - which is rare.

So after rambling along and giving you what's probably far too much info, I'd like to know what everyone thinks: is he right? Should I not worry about it? Or am I being a dangerous fool by not having them? I'm very much a "safety first" kind of guy, especially when it comes to my family and my investments. I'm no speed demon when it comes to driving without a trailer, and I'll probably be even a little slower with it. I'd really rather not put them on if they're unnecessary - there's enough other costs that seem to keep ramping up (no pun intended) on equipment, etc. as it is.

So please, help a newbie out if you can. Thanks.
 
Not sure about the laws in your state but most have require brakes on trailers where the weight is greater than a certain amount but it varies by state. If you were towing with a larger vehicle you may get away with it if you were doing short distance and low speed driving but I wouldn't recommend it. I've got a Parker 2110 WA and the trailer is a replacement which does not have brakes. I've never had a problem towing it locally with an Expedition but that weighs more than your truck and also has 4 wheel discs and ABS. Remember that it isn't just your local laws you need to know - if you are towing into a different state you need to be compliant there as well.

I did a quick Google search and found this:

Section 3 says:

3) Do I have to have brakes on my trailer?

Answer: Oregon law requires that any vehicle or combination of vehicles weighing less than 8,000 pounds must be able to stop within a travel lane in 25 feet from 20 miles per hour. If the vehicle or combination of vehicles weighs over 8,000 pounds, the vehicle must be able to stop within a travel lane in 35 feet from 20 miles per hour. Check your owner’s manual of the tow vehicle to see what the manufacturer recommends. Most manufacturers recommend trailer brakes if the trailer and load weigh 1,000 pounds or more. (ORS 815.125)


 
I haul about 15000 miles a year towing an albeit heavier load (10k) with bigger vehicle. But in all my years towing small to large trailers, breaks are a must. For the sake of a even 1000 to add them, why risk that one fatal idiot on the road who cuts you off or slams on his breaks wrecklessly. If you are not experienced at towing trailers, you will come to appreciate the life of a trucker much more. All to often there are too many out there who have no clue as to what they are doing when they zip out in front of tow vehicle to get that extra spot forward on the hi-way from the on ramp. People are nuts, be prepared.

Regarding your tow capacity. Vehicles tow capacity is rated based upon a single medium size adult, no passengers and not cargo. So you have to factor in passengers and cargo into your total "load". So add up, boat (loaded with fuel and other stuff onbaord), trailer, passengers, cargo. You'll get a number much bigger than 2500lbs. I'd venture that if you are a family of 4 your at 3500lbs or more easily.

Spend a few hundred, save thousands if not a life.

Congratulations on your new boat. Enjoy!!!!
 
I have never, ever seen a sub-18’ boat sitting on a trailer with brakes. That being said, I would never advise you to exceed your vehicle’s tow ratings. If something happens and there’s an accident, you might have a big problem. Then, of course, there’s the issue of safety. Auto manufacturers usually have a reason for publishing the tow figures they do.

Were it not for that crazy 1,500lbs no-brakes rating, I’d tell you that you would have no problem towing your 176. Maybe you could contact Mitsubishi to see if they’ve revised the rating for your vehicle since the manual was published.
 
I would also agree if you're within your manufacturer's and state's suggested towing limits, I would not add brakes for a boat that size.

If you're mechanically inclined and feel brakes are a worthy investment for piece of mind, they sell kits for a single axle that should work just fine.

I'm assuming it's fresh water based on your location. I would recommend the Galvanized brake kits. See here.

Doug

Edit: I'm unsure if this kit fits your axle size. Please be sure to check the correct application.

http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=6522&categoryID=155

6522.jpg
 
With my truck's tow rating I would not even consider adding brakes. With your vehicle's lower tow ratings, I advise you to add brakes - but I am not paying for it! If it were me with your vehicle, depending on how often and far the boat is getting towed, I prob. wouldn't. My folks tow a 180 Crownline with their Toyota Highlander, no brakes. That's prob. a similar setup to yours.
 
The conservative/correct answer is to put brakes on the trailer or buy a different truck. From a practical standpoint, I think you will be fine provided you take your time towing and drive defensively. If anything, you might find you will have a problem pulling the boat out of the water with 2 wheel drive if the boat ramp is steep and slippery.
 
The conservative/correct answer is to put brakes on the trailer or buy a different truck. From a practical standpoint, I think you will be fine provided you take your time towing and drive defensively. If anything, you might find you will have a problem pulling the boat out of the water with 2 wheel drive if the boat ramp is steep and slippery.

+1 - good advice.
 
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Wow! So many replies, so quickly. Thanks to all who did.

I know that ideally I should have them and that a lawyer who finds the 1500lb. number will wring me out to dry in a worst case scenario. I've always been very safety conscious, and I plan on driving 50'ish, max, even with brakes (OR law says 55max when towing).

I also know it's my own fault for not checking on this before I bought the boat - I spent all my time on researching the boat and relatively neglected the trailer. As hungry as the dealers are these days, I probably could've worked a deal with them to split the cost or something.

Extra special thanks to tdappleman for going the extra mile to do the research and quote the law, and to sfergson727 for your hilarious yet scary "what if" scenario. I agree with all of you that if it wasn't for that stupid caveat, I wouldn't worry at all about towing the boat with my truck, but in light of it, I probably should get the brakes installed - under the heading of a little money now vs. a ton of it later. I'm not getting a new truck at this point (one major vehicle a year is my limit). I'll take it out to the far reaches of our local mall's parking lot and see what I think first, but I'll more than likely pony up the cash and do it.

A follow-up question: the dealer said that a set of drum brakes is ~$600, but that discs would be closer to ~$1000. He said that because of corrosion, he'd recommend the discs, but the trailer (and boat) will be used only in fresh water. Any thoughts? While I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, this is something that I would want professionally done.

Any further opinions or thoughts on the matter will be greatly appreciated. Thanks again, to everyone for responding.
 
A follow-up question: the dealer said that a set of drum brakes is ~$600, but that discs would be closer to ~$1000. He said that because of corrosion, he'd recommend the discs, but the trailer (and boat) will be used only in fresh water. Any thoughts? While I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, this is something that I would want professionally done.

I guess you missed my earlier post. The kit is under $400 for disc brakes.

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showpost.php?p=193942&postcount=5

Doug
 
They are fairly easy to put on. I've done it. block the trailer, take the wheels off, take the hubs off and replace with the new hub. Run the lines, pull the old hitch off, bolt the new one on, attach the brakes lines, bleed and you're done. It was easy.
 
If you are not so mechanically inclinded get a way from the dealer and find a shop that sells and maintains trailers. Those are the folks that would do it for the dealer anyway. Most dealers are not equiped to handle problems with trailers much less making a converson from a single no brake to braked. I used to have the same boat as yours and pulled it with a full size Tahoe. I firmly believe your truck is undersized for the boat in any emergency situation. But I have seen a lot of things over the years on the highway.

But like the man in the movie said "Your gonna need a bigger truck", or was that boat...I never remember these things. :huh::lol:
 
You could also add straight electrics. They are inexpensive, easy to install, and perform the best. Only caveat is you will have to add a brake controller to your truck.

Before I get jumped on, I have extensively run and worked on surge hydraulic drum, surge hydraulic disc, and electric drum in salt and fresh. The straight electrics are my favorite (with the surge disc being a close second).
 
You could also add straight electrics. They are inexpensive, easy to install, and perform the best. Only caveat is you will have to add a brake controller to your truck.

Before I get jumped on, I have extensively run and worked on surge hydraulic drum, surge hydraulic disc, and electric drum in salt and fresh. The straight electrics are my favorite (with the surge disc being a close second).

"before i get jumped on" - :lol:
Do you have to unplug the electrics before backing into the water? Seems like they would / could short out. My trailer has the surge & I don't like em at all. 1st - only on one axle, 2nd - no lockout so it's tough to back uphill, 3rd - there is just less control over surge vs. electric. Maybe I could go with electric, my boat is freshwater only too.
 
I put a lengthy post on here when I updated my surge brakes to electrics. http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7888 I waterproofed all connections and used them the entire '08 season. I dunked them (freshwater) almost every weekend. They are great ! They are in perfect working order. I leave them plugged in when dunking no problem...I like braking ability when I back 10k of boat and trailer down a ramp.
 
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Ok, the bottom line is that I'm well within the safe towing cap IF the trailer has brakes, and I'm relying on my stock brakes with almost twice the curb weight without them. Basic physics can not be denied or dismissed.

I've never in my life scrimped when it came to my own or my family's safety, and now is certainly not the time to start. A surge disc kit has been ordered and I will be able to tow my boat to the nearby lakes without doubling my blood pressure and/or leaving marks in my steering wheel. :grin:

I would once again like to greatly thank everyone who responded, and I'll do my best to repay the favor by sharing whatever I can with anyone else's questions or concerns.

You all have made me even prouder to be a member of the Sea Ray owner community. It's good to know we're all out there and can count on each other. Thanks again.
 
You won't regret adding the brakes. Surge sdisc work very well. If your kit does not come with a lockout solenoid, you'll need to add one, or you'll have to engage a mechanical lockout to back up.

Berth Control, I leave the brakes plugged in. I discusssed this with both the trailer manufacturer and the brake manufacturer. Both assured me they would work fine under water and not be damaged. Trailer brakes while backing down a ramp are reassuring.
 
Good deal man. You'll be happy with them. I have a surge disc set on a triple axle trailer. That thing comes to a stop in a hurry.

Doug
 
Yeah, I guess you could call it a "mechanical lockout." I asked about it as I'll have to back the boat up my driveway. He said there's a pin I insert which prevents the brakes from engaging. I'd hate to have to fight them.

I'll probably unplug before I dunk the trailer. Per the spec sheet, the lights are sealed LED's, but since the brakes are surge only, I figure there's no need to test the integrity of the light seals. :smt001

Thanks again.
 

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