Towing kids on inflatables - line configuration

[Atalla]

I think a bridle with the pulley / roller is the way to go. Often they are made for smaller boats (8.5' beam or less), so you might need to check how long / wide it is. I mean, who goes tubing on a boat with a 13-4 foot beam, right?

I have an Airhead bridle for my 9.5' RIB that I tried on my Back Cove 34 last year. It just barely fit on cleats mounted at the top of the transom. The roller type would have been better. Kids didn't like it though - they were afraid of the wake on the big boat (they were 13 and 10 at the time). Before that we were using 270 Amberjack which was good for tubing, and the aforementioned RIB. With its 15 HP motor the towing performance on the RIB isn't so good anymore as the kids get bigger and heavier. More like a slow tour. Just be prepared that with a 38 DA the wake might be pretty large for your kids.

Yes. I have to figure it out. There is a sweet spot where the wake would be manageable, just not sure where that will sit on the fun-meter. Will have to play with it.

 

[DWABoat]

Are you pretty good with knots?
First, I would inspect the installation of your rear cleats to make sure they have through bolts and backing plates. Second, I would only use tow line that floats. Fouling props with sinking line is a big concern. Three strand twisted polypropylene of about 1/2 inch or so should do. Not the Hollow Braid, but three strand poly (usually yellow). This line is cheap and lightweight, does not store energy (stretch), so it is safe for towing.

Make two sections of tow line with a braided loop in each end of the longer section.

One section will serve as your bridle. It should be four times the beam of your boat, say about 60 feet. Run that line from stern cleat to stern cleat and loop it over each cleat keeping plenty of line on both ends in the boat to make adjustments. It should extend about 15 or so feet behind your boat to start.

The other section will be the tow line. This section should be about 50 feet long with a braided loop in each end. Run one end loop through the bridle section. The other end connects to your towable.

Now, poly line has very little friction. The loop should slide easily over the bridle under a load, thereby balancing the load between the cleats.

When you start towing, you can adjust the length of your towline by paying out or retracting the extra line on the bridle section. Recall the friction of polypropylene is low, so it will slip on the cleat if not looped thoroughly. Watch fingers!

This is how we rig for stern towing disabled boats when we don’t have a towing post.

 

[b_arrington]

Are you pretty good with knots?
First, I would inspect the installation of your rear cleats to make sure they have through bolts and backing plates. Second, I would only use tow line that floats. Fouling props with sinking line is a big concern. Three strand twisted polypropylene of about 1/2 inch or so should do. Not the Hollow Braid, but three strand poly (usually yellow). This line is cheap and lightweight, does not store energy (stretch), so it is safe for towing.

Make two sections of tow line with a braided loop in each end of the longer section.

One section will serve as your bridle. It should be four times the beam of your boat, say about 60 feet. Run that line from stern cleat to stern cleat and loop it over each cleat keeping plenty of line on both ends in the boat to make adjustments. It should extend about 15 or so feet behind your boat to start.

The other section will be the tow line. This section should be about 50 feet long with a braided loop in each end. Run one end loop through the bridle section. The other end connects to your towable.

Now, poly line has very little friction. The loop should slide easily over the bridle under a load, thereby balancing the load between the cleats.

When you start towing, you can adjust the length of your towline by paying out or retracting the extra line on the bridle section. Recall the friction of polypropylene is low, so it will slip on the cleat if not looped thoroughly. Watch fingers!

This is how we rig for stern towing disabled boats when we don’t have a towing post.

I would just remark that some stretch is desirable when towing a tube. There's a big dynamic load and having some stretch is helpful to reduce shocks to both boat and riders. This is the opposite of a water skiing line where you want a more "rigid" connection to the skier.

The tube towing rope I bought last year actually has a 3 foot bungee-like elastic section built into it.

 

[DWABoat]

I would just remark that some stretch is desirable when towing a tube. There's a big dynamic load and having some stretch is helpful to reduce shocks to both boat and riders. This is the opposite of a water skiing line where you want a more "rigid" connection to the skier.

The tube towing rope I bought last year actually has a 3 foot bungee-like elastic section built into it.

Now that would certainly increase the fun-factor!

 

[Mig22]

Tale of caution with a bungee line. In our area there was a wakeboat family towing a tuber on a bungee line...it failed and whipped back striking the driver breaking their jaw along with puncturing a lung. A life flight and some ICU time fortunately they recovered.