Tow Vehicle for a 220 Sundeck

mikedj

Member
Jul 26, 2012
62
Richmond, VA
Boat Info
2005 220 Sundeck,
Road King Aluminum Trailer
Engines
5.0L MPI, Alpha One Generation II
I posted this question in the 220 Sundeck thread, but am hoping for a broader range of opinions on towing limitations.

I'm considering buying an F-150 as a tow vehicle for my 6,000 lb. (all up weight with trailer) 220 Sundeck. Some 2015 F-150s list an optional Class IV hitch receiver in addition to the Max Trailer Tow Package option. Research suggests that a Class IV hitch receiver typically has a weight carrying maximum capacity of 10,000 lbs. with 1,000 lb. max tongue weight (specifically, Curt Mfg). However, the Ford literature, and the capacity stickers on the hitch receivers I've seen at the dealer, list a maximum trailer weight of 5,000 lbs. and 500 lb. tongue weight for a weight carrying configuration. But the sticker also says, "Rating will vary depending on vehicle equipment. See owner manual for specific rating." I was hoping that the Max Trailer Tow Package would increase that limit, but the salesman at the dealer and I searched the owners manual and could not find any information that mentioned the weight carrying specification (only overall capacity with WD setup). I have also written to Ford a couple of times, but have not received a response.

As a point of comparison, I also checked several Chevy 1/2 trucks at the dealer. The hitch receiver stickers all have the same 5,000/500 limitation for a weight carrying configuration.

Since I never see weight distributing hitches on boats (I know some people have them, but I have not personally seen one, so I am surmising that they are not common), it would seem that everyone pulling a 220 Sundeck or larger boat with a weight carrying hitch on a 1/2 ton truck is exceeding the weight limitations of the hitch system. I'm hoping someone can prove me wrong because I'd rather not install weight distributing hitch or have to buy a 3/4 ton truck, but that is what my research is suggesting. Am I missing something?

Thank you,
Mike
 
The vehicle will have a towing capacity and the hitch/receiver will have a separate towing capacity. I had a 1500 Silverado with the towing package, which among other extras, included a class IV hitch rated at 10k while truck was rated at 11.5k I believe. Towing packages also include transmission coolers which are vital.

You likely knew all of this, but just in case....

Bennett
 
...it would seem that everyone pulling a 220 Sundeck or larger boat with a weight carrying hitch on a 1/2 ton truck is exceeding the weight limitations of the hitch system.

I don't think you can assume this necessarily. Others may have a properly configured rig. The towing capacity of the F150 is 5000-9100 lbs depending on the engine/transmission configuration and you can safely tow a 220SD if you get a different hitch installed. I would consider getting the the F150 properly configured to tow >6000 lbs and either get an upgraded towing package or get an aftermarket towing package installed.

By comparison, I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe Z71 with a towing capacity of 7400 lbs and trailer package with a capacity of 10k/1k lbs and it tows my 23' Cobalt with no problems and I'm well over 6000 lbs all in. I just had the transmission fluid changed and the old stuff looked brand new and no trace of metal shavings.
 
The vehicle will have a towing capacity and the hitch/receiver will have a separate towing capacity. I had a 1500 Silverado with the towing package, which among other extras, included a class IV hitch rated at 10k while truck was rated at 11.5k I believe. Towing packages also include transmission coolers which are vital.

You likely knew all of this, but just in case....

Bennett

Yes, but thanks for the response. Does the sticker on your 1500 Silverado hitch receiver actually say 10,000 lbs. weight carrying capacity, not weight distributing?

Mike
 
I don't think you can assume this necessarily. Others may have a properly configured rig. The towing capacity of the F150 is 5000-9100 lbs depending on the engine/transmission configuration and you can safely tow a 220SD if you get a different hitch installed. I would consider getting the the F150 properly configured to tow >6000 lbs and either get an upgraded towing package or get an aftermarket towing package installed.

By comparison, I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe Z71 with a towing capacity of 7400 lbs and trailer package with a capacity of 10k/1k lbs and it tows my 23' Cobalt with no problems and I'm well over 6000 lbs all in. I just had the transmission fluid changed and the old stuff looked brand new and no trace of metal shavings.

The towing capacity of the new F150 is actually up to 12,200 lbs, depending on cab configuration and equipment. The one I'm considering, the Super Crew Cab with short bed, Max Trailer Tow Package, Class IV hitch, and 3.5 Ecoboost engine lists 11,500 lbs. as max trailer weight. But that's with a WD hitch. With a WC hitch, it's still just 5,000/500.

The sticker on my '01 Suburban hitch receiver says Weight Carrying 5,000 lbs. / 600 lbs., Weight Distributing is 12,000 lbs. / 1500 lbs.

The only place I've seen WC limits above 5,000 lbs. is on an F250, which is 8,500/850. That frustrates me when Ford advertises a Class IV hitch, but it appears to only be Class IV if it's WD, not when it's WC.

Mike
 
The F150 should tow it just fine. Get a Equalizer WD hitch and you'll be fine. I used it with my 28' cabin cruiser and Ram 2500. It did just fine. I've got a '14 F150 and while I don't tow with mine, it has plenty of power. My brother has no issues towing his camper in the Rockies with his '13 F150 with the MaxTow package.

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/
 
The F150 should tow it just fine. Get a Equalizer WD hitch and you'll be fine. I used it with my 28' cabin cruiser and Ram 2500. It did just fine. I've got a '14 F150 and while I don't tow with mine, it has plenty of power. My brother has no issues towing his camper in the Rockies with his '13 F150 with the MaxTow package.

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/

Did you have any issues with the surge brakes using the equalizer-hitch? My trailer is an aluminum Road King. I contacted them and they said I can use a WD hitch with my trailer, but the surge brakes won't work as good. Road King is not long on explanations, so I don't know how much it will affect the performance.

A friend of mine pulls a 240 SD with a '14 F-150. Leaves me in the dust, so I have great confidence in the truck, I'm just frustrated by the WC weight limitations. One option has clearly been to use the equalizer hitch, but I have very little experience with WD, and none with surge brakes on an aluminum trailer, so I appreciate your input.

Thanks,
Mike
 
My boat was a '04 Four Winns 268 Vista on their factory made steel trailer with surge brakes. Dual axle trailer, brakes on the leading axle. Never had an issue.
 
I tow a 230BR with a 2013 F150 Ecoboost and couldn't ask for a better tow vehicle. Buy one with the Max tow package and you won't regret it.

What type of hitch setup do you use - weight carrying or weight distributing? With surge brakes?

Thanks,
Mike
 
Yes, but thanks for the response. Does the sticker on your 1500 Silverado hitch receiver actually say 10,000 lbs. weight carrying capacity, not weight distributing?

Mike

i do not have the truck anymore, but I do remember something on it about a WD hitch. At the time, I was looking at WD hitches that are compatible with surge brakes. The ones with chains are not compatible with surge brakes, but they make some with a rod that slides through a block that is compatible. Check out etrailer.com.

Bennett
 
i do not have the truck anymore, but I do remember something on it about a WD hitch. At the time, I was looking at WD hitches that are compatible with surge brakes. The ones with chains are not compatible with surge brakes, but they make some with a rod that slides through a block that is compatible. Check out etrailer.com.

Bennett

The Equal-I-Zer seems to be the one everyone recommends with surge brakes - http://www.equalizerhitch.com/ It's sounding like I may need to seriously consider that option.

Thanks,
Mike
 
When you’re pulling your boat you are pulling against 6,000lbs no matter what vehicle/hitch setup you use. The important difference is in hitch weight….the WD hitch transfers hitch weight from the ball to the trailer and truck axles.

It’s my understanding that the ‘5,000/500 vs. 10,000/1,000’ is about best/safest vehicle loading for handling characteristics not because the hitch itself can’t handle it. This is illustrated by the fact that the same hitch can handle pulling from 0 to 10,000lbs.

Your class IV hitch can handle pulling against the 6,000lb load. All you have to do is keep the tongue weight around the 500lbs. The recommendations for tongue weight vary but this setup guide from Shorelandr Trailers suggests it should be in the 5-7% range or 300-420lbs. https://www.shorelandr.com/pages/pf_trstep3.htm

Your f-150 should be fine towing your 220SD…..you can always add WD hitch later if you want to.

FWIW, I towed a 270SD occasionally with my ½ ton Yukon. From a suspension/control/braking standpoint it had no problems but engine wise it was borderline, if I was in hillier country it would not have been sufficient. I give a lot of credit to a properly setup tri-axle trailer with disc brakes on all axles.
 
Just get the biggest tow package they offer and don't look back. That's not to say that adding a WD system isn't better... it is. But you are totally fine with the stock setup the way it comes from Ford (or Chevy, or whatever). Aside from my own boats, I (and others here at the store) pull all kinds of boats - much bigger than yours - with various lot trucks... have never used a WD system.
 
You're limited by the weakest link in your setup. Whether that's payload, GCWR, GAWR, tire rating, or hitch/ball limits.

For example, I'm considering an F250, and the GCWR is about 22,000 lbs, which allows up to about a 14,000 lb trailer. The F250 specs and advertising material limit towing to 12,500 lbs and/or 1,250 tongue weight because their class IV hitch is only rated for that, not the 14,000 the truck is capable of.

There are plenty of manufacturers making hitches with higher ratings. They're a few hundred bucks and you can install it yourself in an hour. No need to be wondering if your hitch is strong enough. Upgrade and don't worry about it.
 
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Just get the biggest tow package they offer and don't look back. That's not to say that adding a WD system isn't better... it is. But you are totally fine with the stock setup the way it comes from Ford (or Chevy, or whatever). Aside from my own boats, I (and others here at the store) pull all kinds of boats - much bigger than yours - with various lot trucks... have never used a WD system.

I am with Dennis and Woody here. I pulled my 260DA(at least 10k at the time) home with the 1500 Silverado w/ towing package. Never hooked it up again...it would pull it, but too much on the motor and transmission. Bought a 2500HD and played a lot with the tongue wieght to get it just right. The 5-7% is perfect to shoot for.

Bennett
 
qflyer, I was thinking about replacing the hitch, but I'm hearing Dennis and Woody's take on the situation from multiple sources, and it really makes sense. Which means I'm not sure replacing the receiver would buy me anything more than a sticker that has better looking numbers on it. The handling won't change since the suspension and other components remain the same.

I do appreciate all of the comments. The discussion has been very helpful.

Thanks,
Mike
 
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I have towed a bunch for over 30 years. Here is a little of what I have learned....

Tow with the biggest truck you can stand to live with for your other needs.
Have good brakes, suspensions, tires, hitches, etc. and drive sensibly.

As far as what you are asking. The F150 should be enough even without a WD hitch.

Having said that a WD hitch can greatly improve handling. I have commonly (but not always) used them with boats for years. Every boat I towed with and without towed significantly better with. HOWEVER, it is absolutely correct to say that WD hitches (even Equal-i-zer which I own two of) will noticeably diminish surge brake performance. This is easily remedied by going to electric over hydraulic brakes, or straight electric. Both will perform far better than surge without WD anyway. Straight electric are simple, reliable, cheap, and very effective. Contrary to common belief, they work famously on boat trailers.

Another tip from experience use bias ply light truck or RIB tires on the trailer instead of radials. Radials simply do not hold up to the rigors of trailering. Belt separation is a prolific problem with radials on trailers.

Also, FWIW, I have owned both steel and aluminum trailers. I prefer aluminum when they are built and set up correctly.
 
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Thanks for sharing your experience. It's good to hear about the equal-i-zer from an actual user.

Mike
 

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