Tools needed for Alpha1 transom kit ??

[georgew]

Hi,

This forum has great information and coupled with info from google searches I think I want to tackle replacing the rotted/missing bellows on my Alpha 1 drive. A mechanic has quoted $900 to do the work, $1100 if it has power steering which it does. Ouch.


I plan on getting the kit from sterndrives and am leaning to the one which has the exhaust bellows which only attaches at the transom end.

Which special tools do I need? I think I need the hinge pin removal tool, but am not sure if I need the bellows expansion tool or the alignment tool. I am assuming the gimbal bearing ring is OK.

What do you think? Oh, I will also get the flex joint extension tool to tighten the hose clamps around the bellows.

There are several links on how to do all this but if you know of any good ones I'dd love to check them out.

Thanks for any feedback.

George

 

[KP49]

Hinge pin tool should be it to start.

I would check the alignment if you have the drive off as well, an alignment tool is cheap on eBay.

If the bellows is gone most likely the u-joints and gimbal bearing are too if it was used with a hole in the bellows, thats another set of tools if those need to be replaced. If you are replacing the exhaust bellows with the tube then you wont need the exhaust bellows tool, it will be louder with the tube.

Honestly take it apart before you start buying tools because most likely you will need more tools and parts than what you think and you may buy things you dont. Luckily everything is a couple days away online if you cant find them local.

 

[Gunn]

Power steering shoudn't make a bit of difference. That's all inside the boat. Don't understand the difference in the quote. But that price does seem quite steep. Some spots in the process are a pain for a DIY'er that doesn't do it all the time, but he seems to be charging a bunch for labor...

If you do the exhaust bellows, you will absolutely need the bellows expansion tool; there's really no other clever way to do what it does.

When installing the new U-joint bellows, if yours has the inner metal ring that needs pressed in place (not sure if this only applies to Alpha I Gen II), you'll either need the special tool or (as I did) you'll need to fabricate one. I made mine out of wood; two concentric circular blocks with a dowel handle attached.

A flex-joint type of tool would be nice for installing the various hose clamps.

You might want to consider replacing your shift cable at the same time; you'll have to remove it from the drive end anyway.

The hardest part for me was putting on the new water hose, and fishing the shift cable through the bellows and into the transom. They're not hard on a technical level, but it's one of those things you fool with and cuss over for an hour and then it just magically pops into place.

Good luck!

Tom

 

[georgew]

Great. Thanks for the feed back. The U joint bellows is still on but old and cracking. Hopefully nothing is rusting or loose. The exhaust bellows is toast/gone and the shift bellows is also still on. There are barnicles on the outdrive and transom piece which I want to remove. Maybe there is a local shop I can take the out drive to when it is off so they can respray the unit.

I bought the boat from a friend. He took care of it but had it trailered at a marina on the Potomac and rain water would collect and sit in the open cabin. The cover would always be blown loose after some of the nasty squals passed through. As a result, some of the interior wood has rotted and I will need to remove carpetting and replace or augment the wood. I am also looking for a local canvas shop. Everytime I look at the boat I am glad I was able to get it from my friend as a project. He just did not have the time or DIY inclination. I hope to get started soon.

 

[njmello]

As long as you are in there - I'd go ahead and replace the U-joints and gimbal bearing (you'll need a slide hammer to pull that bearing) - they've probably never been replaced since the boat was new. While you are about it, a new impeller would be in order. Make sure you get the gear lube pump kit with the fitting for the bottom hole plug and fill it from the bottom.

 

[nightdagger]

I just did mine and the only tool I purchased was the OEM hinge pin tool. I made my own gimbal puller by grinding a washer on both sides and sliding it through the bearing on a piece of threaded rod. A few other washers and nuts and all I had to do was turn the outside nut on a piece of wood and it pulled right out. The engine alignment tool I had made and cost me 30 bucks. I googled it and got the dimensions and it worked perfect. To install the new gimbal I cut a 2x4 so the old outer casing of the old gimbal would fit snugly onto the end and was straight and true. I then froze my new gimbal, greased it good and slowly tapped it in place, checking it was going in straight every other hit.

The job took me 6 hours in total and that was spending 2-3 hours just trying to get the drive back on. It was hanging on the o-rings on the shaft that go into the gimbal. But aside from that only the shift cable bellows was a pain the rest was very easy but you just have to take your time.

Google the process and there are some good guides and even videos on YouTube. Next time I bet I could do it all in 2-3 hours as long as the kings pins come out easy.

Oh yeah make sure you heat the bell housing where the hinge pins thread into, they are loctited in and a pain without heat. I used oxy acetylene with a brazing tip, sprayed some penetrating oil in as well and the took maybe 5 minutes each.

I am here to help if you have any questions, take your time and you will have no problems.

Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk 2

 

[georgew]

Ok. I bought the hinge pin removal tool, and removed the bellows, water line, shift cable and its housing. Most everything is off. The trim wires are badly frayed and I am going to replace both sides. My Alpha 1 is a 1989 version and has the 2 nuts holding the retainer plate which holds the wires going thru the transom in position. I need a wrench, 11 mm or 7/16, which can access the top nut. I am thinking a short off set box wrench?? Not sure this will work. Do you have any ideas what works....