Tips and tricks

If you put your ice cream container in a ziplock bag before putting it in the freezer, it will prevent those ice crystals (freezer burn) from occurring.
 
If you are packing something for shipment and don't have any bubble wrap, Just fill a few ziplock bags full of air and close them.
 
If you only want to drill to a certain depth. tie a zip tie around the drill bit at the desired depth, then drill until the zip-tie touches the surface.
 
Round tools like to roll away, usually when you are deeply contortioned into the bilge. Tie a zip tie around them to prevent them from rolling away.
 
Creekwood said:
I think I have posted this before. If you have a Sea Ray with those completely useless "cup holders" on the port side dash, you can either raise the plexiglass base on stands like some have done, or alternatively mount a stainless cup holder in the center (you have to cut out the plastic between the holes in the holder. This one is from Edson. I like it because it holds mugs with handles too. It also makes a good place to hang a bag like a camera bag or purse that is off the deck but secure.
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I have a closed end wrench that is 1/2" on one side and 9/16 on the other. I used paracord with a slip loop to tie it to my wrist when winterizing. I also have a zip tie on the 1/2 inch side so I can push that into the holes on the manifold/riser/block to get the scale out of the way when draining for winterization. Allows me to pull the drain plug with my fingers without worrying about losing the wrench into the bilge.
 
On your hitch there is a 5/8 inch pin that goes through the receiver and your stinger with the hitch ball on it. Holding that pin is a clip that you remove to pull the pin. I used paracord and tied a quick loop through that pin to make removal quick and easy. A quick tug removes the clip!
 
Last edited:
Found this online:
ropetip.jpg
 
I finally learned the "right" way to install and remove gas struts with 10mm ball clips.
You DO NOT have to mess with the spring clip on the back of the strut unless it is one with a shelf that you slide the clip up on to.
1. remove the old strut by using a screwdriver to pry the ends off the ball.
2. disregard the measurement you took while the old strut was on. Open the hatch/door to where you want it to stop, and measure the distance from the center of the balls to get the correct OVERALL extended length, and make sure that is the measurement the new strut is advertising.
3. gauge the pressure needed by either weighing the hatch, or use the old strut as a guide.
4. to install the new strut, simply press the cup ends onto the ball. no need to mess with the spring clip.
5. install so the cylinder is up, and the rod is down. That will keep the rod lubricated, and reduces rust from sitting water.

The measurement for correct length is the most critical, as all these manufacturers use different spots to claim their length. I have a hand full of incorrect length struts.
 
Our new slip has a fairly strong current which makes docking a little tricky. The concrete pilings out front make it more challenging. A neighbor had placed HDPE corrugated pipe over the pilings on each side as a bumper just in case. I followed his lead.
5E289B12-6B77-4A7C-BEF6-BA4F0D2A9B13.jpeg
 
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