Tips and Tricks to Remove/Re-bed Bow Harware

[Golfman25]

Ok, for my next project I plan on removing and re-bedding the windless and anchor hardware. On my 370 DA I can gain "access" from the anchor locker, but still looks like some difficult to reach nuts. Going to let it dry out this winter and re-bed with Life calk in the Spring. Anyone have tips and tricks to get it done?

Also I noticed they used several small aluminum squares as backing plates on the roller. I am thinking of making a single stainless backing plate when I reinstall.

Thanks in advance.

 

[NespoJoe]

Ok, for my next project I plan on removing and re-bedding the windless and anchor hardware. On my 370 DA I can gain "access" from the anchor locker, but still looks like some difficult to reach nuts. Going to let it dry out this winter and re-bed with Life calk in the Spring. Anyone have tips and tricks to get it done?

Also I noticed they used several small aluminum squares as backing plates on the roller. I am thinking of making a single stainless backing plate when I reinstall.

Thanks in advance.

We have a 380 with a Progress 1, so assuming you have the same. There are a few things to remove on the topside of the windlass (watch youtube for that). I found I could reach most nuts inside the locker from the outside, BUT I could not reach the port side nuts to the windlass itself without physically getting into the locker. So I ended up removing the anchor locker door (pain to move around it while it's up), then removed all chain/rode to give me enough room to climb into the locker (tight fit, but once inside, it was roomy enough for me 6'2" 200#). Once inside, I was able to remove the nuts on everything, including electrical. NOTE: the windlass motor is very heavy, so be sure to tie it off to something on the topside before you completely loosen it - I went through the hole where the chain/rode go through). Be sure to have a friend around to help you get back out! I reused all the original backing plates.