Tie a boat in a slip between pilings

[Gunn]

I am spoiled having my own pier and boat lift at my home. But the disadvantage is I don't get much experience with typical marina docking, so I get a bit anxious when traveling to a new destination. I don't really worry about maneuvering and actual docking as I play around and practice. What gets me is the art of tying up the boat as you come into the slip and dock.

Below is a image of docking between fixed pilings on a fixed pier, which is pretty typical around here. We have a tidal swing of about 2'. I'm trying to understand the best way to tie up in this scenario. Thought it would be good to ask here and get everyone's opinions. I've read to use as little as 5 lines, or as many as 8.

I pretty much assume that a bow line will go to piling 2, and another to piling 3.

1) How to get the bow lines to pilings 2 and 3? Slip one over a piling from the stern as you arrive into the slip, then continue in? What about the other? Or are most of these pilings in close enough to the boat to be able to reach them from the bow by pushing off after you've idled? I would think this would not always be the case.

2) What about spring lines? Do you get a line around piling 2 and tie it to the stern as you get near enough the dock to prevent further movement? What about an after bow spring line?

3) What about the stern? Should the two lines that go from the stern to the dock be crossed?

Just a few of the questions I've been thinking about...

 

[Kay Lee]

Sounds like you got a pretty good working knowledge of how to do it. I would do the two bow lines to 2 and 3 with plenty of slack. I use my boat hook to assist in attaching and detaching lines to pilings. Stern lines should be crossed. Sometimes you can get away with one spring line. A lot depends upon the placement of your boat's cleats and the dock's cleats or pilings. 5 or 6 lines is generally enough for me.

Larry

 

[skibum]

I'm anxious to hear the answers to this. I really hate it where there is no piling #1 and a boat on the other finger.

There must be a law of nature that says that the wind must always blow towards the other boat.

 

[Alex F]

....1) How to get the bow lines to pilings 2 and 3? Slip one over a piling from the stern as you arrive into the slip, then continue in? What about the other? Or are most of these pilings in close enough to the boat to be able to reach them from the bow by pushing off after you've idled? ...

What I do in transient slip for bow and spring lines is use a spliced eye in the line to form a sliding loop. Put that over the piling, pull it tight, and secure the running end on the boat. That way you can adjust the docklines from on board, and tuck away the excess line.

Your picture shows more optimistic case scenario while in most cases the bow sticks out quite a bit beyand the pilings. In most cases I would use longer single line to serve as a bow and spring line (blue and red line would be one line). This way I would need total of 4 lines instead of 6.

The pink line is an extra and optional. It's to pull the boat closer to the finger for easier access on/off the boat.

 

[Alegria]

For bay if the weather if going to be good during my stay I'll use one spring line from #3. Cross my stern lines. Usually the slip is not too wide and my wife can get the bow lines on the #2 and #3. I use Alex F's trick of what he describes as a sliding loop in the pre-spliced loop on the line and tie off the bitter end on the cleat. I trained the wife and she is a pro at it now. Make a big loop and lasso the piling and then pull it tight, then cleat it off. That way you don't need to be right up on the piling. Actually saw the folks at the Hyatt do this the first time we were down there and liked it.

 

[CV-23]

Thanks for the info Whats This....Mike.

 

[comsnark]

Yup. what said above.

I have also used the trick of tying off at the cleat -> looping around the poles at the bow, and coming back to the cleat.

I had an unfortunate experience where the "loop on the piling" actually slid down while undocking to a point 2' underwater. Some places have a hook or something on the piling to prevent that from happening. . most do not. Since the line was new, I was a bit loathe to leave it behind. Took some effort to get that line back using the boat hook.

 

[Gunn]

What I do in transient slip for bow and spring lines is use a spliced eye in the line to form a sliding loop. Put that over the piling, pull it tight, and secure the running end on the boat. That way you can adjust the docklines from on board, and tuck away the excess line.

Your picture shows more optimistic case scenario while in most cases the bow sticks out quite a bit beyand the pilings. In most cases I would use longer single line to serve as a bow and spring line (blue and red line would be one line). This way I would need total of 4 lines instead of 6.

The pink line is an extra and optional. It's to pull the boat closer to the finger for easier access on/off the boat.

Great info everyone, thank you! I did plan on looping around the piling and having the running end in my hand.

One question, do you tie any of these bow lines as you are entering the slip, or do you do them once completely in and settled? I'm thinking I'd want to try to loop 2 or 3 as I came in and use that as the spring line (forward quarter spring), so as not to bump the stern or swim platform up against the dock. But that complicates the docking procedure a bit...

Thanks again,

 

[wastinaweigh]

Like Alex, I run the line through the eye to create a slip loop to put on the pilings. That way, I can remove the line if someone else comes in later and puts their line on top of mine, and can easily adjust the length since the bitter end is on the boat.

As a side note, I have had heated arguments with "dockmasters" at fuel docks who think that the eye of my lines should go on my cleat. The bitter end is always reserved for the boat side - that way I can always release it in a hurry if needed.

Using your diagram, the first line that you want to attach is from either piling 2 or 3, depending on wind/current, to the corresponding mid cleat. Once this spring line is attacted, you can use the boat's engine to completely control the boat in the slip and attached the remaining lines at your convenience, regardless of the wind or current. If you have twins, just reverse the starboard engine to swing the bow to the right, port to the left. If a single outdrive, reversing with the wheel hard to port will swing the bow to the right, starboard to the left (test that under a controlled setting in case I have it backward). If you have a single inboard, you will want to run a spring line from piling 1 to the bow cleat instead, so that you can put your transmission in forward and use your rudder to swing the bow.

2 bow lines, 2 stern lines (crossed), and the spring line you already attached. Usually you do not need a 2nd spring line.

Once you master using a spring line, you should never have the need for a thruster, joystick, or even a dedicated line-handler.

 

[Alex F]

...One question, do you tie any of these bow lines as you are entering the slip, or do you do them once completely in and settled? I'm thinking I'd want to try to loop 2 or 3 as I came in and use that as the spring line (forward quarter spring), so as not to bump the stern or swim platform up against the dock. But that complicates the docking procedure a bit...

Before approaching the docks all I do is have the lines ready (2 at the bow and 2 at the stern) and also have a fender ready (if I don't forget to ask on what side the fingert is or if it's present at all). I don't do any lines when I'm docking. My wife is at the stern watching the distance and alerting me if I'm to close to a finger or the dock. When the boat is in the slip 100% and standing still my wife gets on the dock to do the two closest lines (1 stern and 1 bow). My engines remain runnning until the spring line (at least one) is secured. My engines are running to allow me to maintain the control of the boat until I'm confident that she's secured.

If you can't reach the pilings, pushing off one to get to the other usually works, otherwise just throw a big loop. Finally, if other two methids don't work, the boat hook will come to the rescue.

 

[JVM225]

I use six lines in a slip like that.
Two crossed from the stern to the dock to keep me lined up and in the slip.
One spring line on each side from the rear most cleat on the side to the poles up front to keep me off of the dock.
One line from each of the most forward cleats on each side of the boat to the poles up there to keep the bow centered in the slip.

 

[Alex F]

....I had an unfortunate experience where the "loop on the piling" actually slid down while undocking to a point 2' underwater. Some places have a hook or something on the piling to prevent that from happening. . most do not. Since the line was new, I was a bit loathe to leave it behind. Took some effort to get that line back using the boat hook.

If a piling doesn't have a hook or another (dockmate's) line to stop mine from sliding down, then I waould use the loop on the cleat and tie another end on the piling.

A very important thing to keep in mind is the tide swing when you're on a fixed dock. You should have enough slack to account for the high and low tides.

 

[Gunn]

Alex and others...just wanted to get back and say thanks for the great information and help in helping me learn to properly tie up at the dock. We spent our first weekend "away from home" at Spring Cove Marina in Solomons Island, Maryland and had a great time! They gave me a slip that thankfully looked just like my diagram, but I had to navigate down a narrow alley, make a 90 degree turn, navigate down that, and then turn 90 deg. and back into my slip. Needless to say, the stress level was up, but I kept my cool and docked the boat beautifully.

I instructed my wife and other crew on how to tie up, based on this thread, and had the boat secure with 5 lines and one fender on the finger pier. We had a second family with us (relatives) and they were impressed. :smt001

Next day we did it all again when we arrived back at the slip. I had a nice crosswind this time to make keep me on my toes, but used the outer piling on the port side (wind blowing from starboard side) to pivot off of and backed right in again, no issues. Those onboard were again impressed. :smt001 My wife used the boat hook this time to lasso the pilings at the bow and had a much easier time of it.

Thanks again for making our weekend awesome!

Tom

 

[Skeetobite]

View attachment 21496

What I do in transient slip for bow and spring lines is use a spliced eye in the line to form a sliding loop. Put that over the piling, pull it tight, and secure the running end on the boat. That way you can adjust the docklines from on board, and tuck away the excess line.

Your picture shows more optimistic case scenario while in most cases the bow sticks out quite a bit beyand the pilings. In most cases I would use longer single line to serve as a bow and spring line (blue and red line would be one line). This way I would need total of 4 lines instead of 6.

The pink line is an extra and optional. It's to pull the boat closer to the finger for easier access on/off the boat.

This illustration is exactly right and plenty to keep you secure in the slip. Personally, I use only a single spring from the forward pier to the starboard mid-cleat going aft to keep me off the dock, with no spring on the port side. When single handing, I use the pink breast line in the illustration to hold me when I'm down to two lines and ready to go. That one is the last to cast off. Be sure to leave enough slack for tides, but not so much you are swinging into the piers or finger dock.

Edit: LOL - Just saw you met with success. Congrats on a great outing.

 

[fwebster]

When approaching a transient slip, I send my deck hand to the bow with a minimum of 4 lines while I stay at the helm. We stop the boat about 1/2 way in the slip with the wide part of the bow even with the froward most pilings and at least far enough in that the stern is passed the middle pilings. I hold the boat in position until the 2 bow lines and 2 spring lines are looped around the pilings......bitter end stays on the boat because you never can estimate how to set lines in a transient slip until you are there long enough to see the effects of the tide. With the lines secured, we back into position and set the spring lines to keep the stern off the dock. The deck hand centers the bow in the slip while I secure the stern with 2 more lines.

In some situations where you have to set very long stern lines, you may need to additionally use a pair of forward spring lines going from the middle piling forward to the mid-ship cleat in order to stop forward motion of the boat in the slip. Its a pretty rare need, but I've had to do it several times, so plan to carry along 8 different dock lines on the boat as spares or transient lines.

And, never, ever use the same line for the bow and spring lines. If you snap a combinatioin line off in a squall or high tide, you lose complete control of your boat because you have no bow and no spring line on the same side. It is far safer to use individual lines for each one you need.

 

[Gimme Time]

When approaching a transient slip, I send my deck hand to the bow with a minimum of 4 lines while I stay at the helm. We stop the boat about 1/2 way in the slip with the wide part of the bow even with the froward most pilings and at least far enough in that the stern is passed the middle pilings. I hold the boat in position until the 2 bow lines and 2 spring lines are looped around the pilings......bitter end stays on the boat because you never can estimate how to set lines in a transient slip until you are there long enough to see the effects of the tide. With the lines secured, we back into position and set the spring lines to keep the stern off the dock. The deck hand centers the bow in the slip while I secure the stern with 2 more lines.

In some situations where you have to set very long stern lines, you may need to additionally use a pair of forward spring lines going from the middle piling forward to the mid-ship cleat in order to stop forward motion of the boat in the slip. Its a pretty rare need, but I've had to do it several times, so plan to carry along 8 different dock lines on the boat as spares or transient lines.

And, never, ever use the same line for the bow and spring lines. If you snap a combinatioin line off in a squall or high tide, you lose complete control of your boat because you have no bow and no spring line on the same side. It is far safer to use individual lines for each one you need.

I totally agree with Frank's description above and as I sometimes travel singlehanded I always loop from the pilings and or cleats on the dock back to the cleat on my boat. I like to be able to make all line adjustements on the boat and keep control of my lines. Before we pull into a slip i preposition the lines for the bow and spring in place. I find it easiest for my wife to have the loop end of the line over the rail with both ends connected to the cleat. This allows her to lay the line over the piling and adjust the slack then te other bow side.

Makes for easier departure as well since she or I can bring the lines back on board easily without having to untie off the piling or dock cleat.