Throttle Slop

jeffk

jeffk

New Member
Apr 28, 2009
273
Sarasota, Florida
Boat Info
2006 300 Sundancer
Engines
5.0L Mercruiser w/Bravo III
I have a 2006 300 w/ 5.0 BIII

The Port throttle lever slack is looser than the Starboard. There is nothing loose on the engine. It seems it is loose in the controls. Also, is the detent adjustable? I don't feel any, and is difficult to feel Forward and Reverse.

What brand and model do I have?
 
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Jeff, we likely have the same control. I couldn't find anything in my stash of manuals as to what series the control is, and the Mercury Marine website now only has the DTS controls shown. Maybe this one will warrant a visit to the dealer...
 
Jeff, I did a little more searching on google, this control resembles the one I have. I'm almost certain this is the model number. It is a Mercury 4500 Generation II controller

Mercury Quicksilver 883711A02 REMOTE CONTROL

Here is a link to an exploded view: http://www.marinepowerservice.com/B...ickdrive/883711A02/path/889892/pickyear/0.cfm

883711A02.jpg
 
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Yep, that looks like mine. I've seen everybodys exploded views, but nowhere is the neutral detent or slack adjustment noted.

I guess I'll just tear into it and find out the hard way. How hard can it be????
 
Checked out the throttle, but can't figure out if it is the Throttle or cables. When I depress the idle buttons on the sides, I can feel the D N R detents, but in normal operation, I can't feel the detents.

I would like to change them all out. Has anyone changed out the throttle and cables. I saw inside the Starboard panel, they really used a lot of silicone to seal off where tha cables go forward.
 
jeffk said:
What is the difference between 4500 and 4500 Gen II ?
Click to expand...
The Gen II has a new longer style shift control box where the cables hook up to, And also they have a new, much better style shift and throttle cable for better shifting all the way around compared to the older shorter style controller and different cables. Here is some general information About the new controller for you.:smt001

4000/4500 GEN II Control Box
Situation
This new 4000/4500 GEN II control has reduced external movement of the throttle and
shift cables. Under extreme cable routing conditions this will help minimize shift/throttle
handle loads. As with previous controls, all cable adjustments will continue to be made at
the engine so there is no need to disassemble the control box to make cable
adjustments.​




NOTE: The new GEN II controls must use new GEN II throttle and shift cables.
Features of New control​

[FONT=ArialUnicodeMS+1]• [/FONT]
New mounting plate design allows panel mount (4000 GEN II Lock bar 883710A___)

control to be installed on either port or starboard side at 30[FONT=ArialUnicodeMS+1]°[/FONT] increments from the
horizontal position.
[FONT=ArialUnicodeMS+1]• [/FONT]​


Requires unique throttle and shift cables.

[FONT=ArialUnicodeMS+1]• [/FONT]​


Available in panel and console mount.

[FONT=ArialUnicodeMS+1]• [/FONT]​


Available with pistol grip or lock bar handle design (Panel and Flush).

[FONT=ArialUnicodeMS+1]• [/FONT]​


Control box housing is approximately 2-1/2 inches longer.

[FONT=ArialUnicodeMS+1]• [/FONT]​


Eliminates external movement of throttle and shift cables.

[FONT=ArialUnicodeMS+1]• [/FONT]​


Throttle handle friction pre-set at factory.

[FONT=ArialUnicodeMS+1]• [/FONT]​


New lock bar handle has soft grip design.​




GEN II control cable center core wire

(non-adjustable)
​


GEN II control cable slot in cable

housing wider than the standard SAE
cable
Control Cable Quality
Outboard control cables (throttle and shift) generally fall into three different quality levels.
Level 3: Generally this is the least expensive cable with a limited number of wires in the
outside housing (generally 6 wire), and has a solid center core wire. If sharp bends are
made with this type of cable, the outer housing will deform and put pressure on the center
core wire increasing throttle and shift load. This cable will perform satisfactorily on short
runs where there is a limited number of bends in the cable and the bends are very
gradual. Improper handling of this cable prior to installation may cause it to deform which
will create increased throttle and shift loads.​



Level 3 cable: 6 wires in outside housing and solid core wire​




Level 2: This mid grade cable has more wires in the outside housing, sometimes referred
to as a full complement cable. These types of cables generally still use a solid center core
wire.
Because of the increased number of wires in the outer housing, this type of cable can
make more aggressive bends without the outer housing deforming. Ideal for center
console boats where the cables make an extra bend between the control and the engine.
Minimum recommended quality level for all Mercury outboard and MCM applications.​



Level 2 cable: Full complement wire in outside housing, solid core wire
Level 1: The highest grade/level 1 cables have a thicker outer housing with full
complement of wires, and a flexible center core wire. Ideal for long runs where more than
the normal number of bends are required or aggressive bends in the cable are required.
Recommended for use in boats requiring 16 FT cables or longer.​



Level 1 cable: Full complement of wires in outside housing, thicker housing flexible

center core wire​
 
Well..............Here's the deal.

I called the local Marine Max. The service adviser said it was a design flaw the way the cables were run on this boat, 2006 300 Sundancer, and because of the stiffness of the cables, it has prematurelly worn out the controller. So he wants to replace all 4 cables and the controller. He also stated it would cost more to rebuild the controller than to replace it. I am taking it down tomorrow for him to look at and give me an estimate to do this. Any thoughts or experiences here. I would think if it were a design flaw, it would be covered under some type of a recall?

Any thoughts?
 
No recall likely....however, if there were a small population of 2006 300's that had related shift controller problems due to the routing of the cables, a bulliten may exist as the source and cure for the problem. I experienced an issue with the location of the EIM in the bilge that Sea Ray corrected at their expense. Sea Ray addressed each one as they were reported to the dealer. Work with your dealer, Sea Ray wants satisfied customers.
 
It looks like the slop is not normal, but in order to see what the problem is, they will have to dissassemble the controller. And it may OR may not fix the problem. They also said they would definately break the neutral idle button while removing it. So I guess I'll learn to live with it till I get a new button in hand before I attempt to look into it.
 
jeffk said:
It looks like the slop is not normal, but in order to see what the problem is, they will have to dissassemble the controller. And it may OR may not fix the problem. They also said they would definately break the neutral idle button while removing it. So I guess I'll learn to live with it till I get a new button in hand before I attempt to look into it.
Click to expand...


Hi Jeff..

I have a similar issue with my 2007 300DA. What was your outcome?

Ian
 
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