The official FIX BOAT RANT thread.

[Doc O Rock]

Last year we bought our 1999 380 DA, and we do love it. In fact, we were anchored out at one of our favorites sitting on the bow, just enjoying the scenery and The Admiral said: "Buying this boat is the best thing you've ever done."

Fast forward to today. She works in a hospital and has to work the occasional weekend, but at least it gives me one uninterrupted day to just do fix boat stuff. I had noticed that the shower sump pump was making more noise than normal, so I took the top off just to take a look. I cleaned everything out and made the inside of the box ship shape, but the pump still sounded bad and the output was not a good young man's stream. Time for a new pump. Should be easy enough, it's just a standard 800gph Rule. Off to my favorite BOAT store, and there it was. Out came the old and I cleaned under the pump. There is a hose that runs from the pump to the discharge on the box and inside that hose is an anti-flow back valve. I have heard them called "Joker" valves, or duckbill valves. I know we all hate those damn things, but this was a little thing maybe 1/2 an inch. It was apparent when I tested after replacing the pump, that this valve was letting the water in the hose, slowly flow back into the sump box. Well, I need a new valve. Off to the favorite store. Sorry, nothing that small. Off to the second store, same story. As it turned out, no one had one EXCEPT as part of a total complete new shower sump box.
So what should have been a $3 valve turned into a $157 total box.
BTW, that new pump barely makes a sound so I'm happy I did the job.

Rant over for now.
I'm sure we've all had similar experiences except maybe MasterFab.

 

[ttmott]

FYI - Rule provides those little check valves at no cost.... A phone call is all....

 

[Doc O Rock]

FYI - Rule provides those little check valves at no cost.... A phone call is all....

I suspected as much but it was a Saturday and we are leaving for a 9-day trip next Friday, so I had more money than time. As an aside, I came off the boat today, and the dock was wet where the out flow from the new pump is SO much better than the old.

 

[Skuza]

I too have obtained the valves for free. Good job on getting it buttoned up. I've been going around with the vent glass gasket on the windshield. The dealer plays dumb and my googling can't find anything. I'm gonna try making one outta closed cell foam.

 

[Gofirstclass]

OK, who is the source of those free duckbills?

 

[SeadawgVB]

OK, who is the source of those free duckbills?

Yeah, I'd like to know this as well. I've been conversing with Paul Campagna @ Xylem Inc. and all he would offer was the "correct" part number. I use quotes because the replacements with the proper number look too small. (Maybe this free-bee policy has changed, I have heard that they provided replacements in the past.) Yesterday was too nice of a day to work on the sump after a week extra-hotness.

Paul also stated that they are "in the process of manufacturing a new shower sump bow to accommodate the new bilge pump but it will not be available until next year." I hope he is talking about the "New Rule 800" pump (model #20DA) with built-in (and replaceable) back flow prevention.

 

[villain style]

"Boat part" and "free" never go together!

 

[Skuza]

OK, who is the source of those free duckbills?

Just to be clear these were the small ones that are on the shower sumps. Same type of valve just smaller. I have replaced the toilet duck bills and had to buy those. They were less appetizing to install!

 

[Doc O Rock]

Yes, this is the small one in the shower sump box.

 

[SeadawgVB]

So last evening I went down to the boat to try the "too small" back flow preventer. I fit like a glove and worked just right. I guess the old one had swollen up a fair amount from who knows what kind of cleaner or solvent.
But the level of water had crept up due to A/C condensate and the float switch was floating but not triggering the pump. After manually cycling the switch a couple of times, it did its job. I'm thinking time for a new switch (which they still make). I still haven't found the root cause of the breaker tripping, could a bad float switch do that?