The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

Ron
If you can get it in the shop and have it looked at sooner that later, the engine may be OK. You'll just need new exhaust. Have a closer look first at the condition of the engine.
 
IslandTime said:
Anyone know where to get (if they are even available ) skylight covers /inserts to block sun in then cabin for those overnight trips ? Hatch has a sliding screen but nothing came with boat for skylights ...
2011 260 da .
Thanks for any help !
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Have you tried to slide the screen the opposite way? Mine has a screen on one side and a shade on the other.
http://www.oceanair.co.uk/skyscreenrollersurface2.aspx
 
Nehalennia said:
Have you tried to slide the screen the opposite way? Mine has a screen on one side and a shade on the other.
http://www.oceanair.co.uk/skyscreenrollersurface2.aspx
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thanks for the idea - yes that works on the Hatch up front. the 2011 260DA came with 2 triangular skylights as well behind the center hatch.. called Sea Ray - they say they don't make any covers or inserts - kind of hard to believe as its a real nuisance when overnighting unless you like to wake with the sunrise...guess i'll have to fabricate some foam inserts or something...
 
Nehalennia said:
Ron
If you can get it in the shop and have it looked at sooner that later, the engine may be OK. You'll just need new exhaust. Have a closer look first at the condition of the engine.
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Thanks Todd. It was in the shop and just found out that the good news is they were able to get the engine running so it appears the engine is ok. Just trying to figure out how the water got in. Seems the water was only found in the even cylinders which I believe is on the starboard side. At the beginning of the season I had a mechanic replace the throttle cables and he did remove the riser on the starboard side to get at the cables. I'm guessing that is the culprit so am contemplating just having that taken apart and re-connected. I just hate doing the work and spending the cash when I don't know 100% what the issue is. Don't think it's a head gasket issue though since they ran the boat on the muffs/hose for a while and didn't see any water intrusion. if you have any other ideas let me know.

Ron
 
Ron
the water can get in through your exhaust manifolds going bad, bad flappers on your exhaust or by slowing down to fast without the engine running(don't ask me how I know). I would change the oil another time or two sooner than later. My guess is that it's the exhaust manifolds. How old are they>?
 
Nehalennia said:
Ron
the water can get in through your exhaust manifolds going bad, bad flappers on your exhaust or by slowing down to fast without the engine running(don't ask me how I know). I would change the oil another time or two sooner than later. My guess is that it's the exhaust manifolds. How old are they>?
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According to the PO they were changed in 2009 but I have no record of that. What do you think of my theory that since the water was found in the starboard side cylinders and the fact that the risers were taken apart on the starboard side this past spring maybe they weren't put together properly or not tightened down enough and became slightly lose? I know I'm reaching. How can I confirm that it is definitely the manifolds or risers or both? Since I'm selling the boat I would hate to just start replacing stuff without knowing for sure that is the issue. If it is and I can confirm it I will definitely replace them before selling to someone else.
 
That could be correct or the flapper in your exhaust Y is missing. From '09 until now is 5 years without a true record of their status and maintenance. It may be slightly premature, but maybe worth considering replacing them. I switched over to the dry joint style and am very happy. It may be my ears going, but they seem quieter too.
[video=youtube;E3KN8IIh4Fw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3KN8IIh4Fw[/video]
 
Would anyone know if a 2002 camper top would fit a 2000 260 da
thanks
 
Yes they're the same boat. There may be a couple adjustments where the hardware lines ups, but it should fit just fine.
 
Hi everyone, I got my 2004 260 Sundancer about 6 months ago and have had a few issues and tested it two times in the channels then out to the ocean for a few miles. The thing that really bugged me was that I'm thinking can't be right is the speed to rpm. From what I can remember was 3000rpm = about 18.5 mph gps, wot 4900rpm= about 35.5. The prop is a Bravo III 22P 48-823663 and 4 with a 6.2L MPI 377 320 hp. All the while I was initially believing that I could cruise at 28mph and about 3300-3400rpm....... I played with the tabs and nothing much changed. I called a propeller company and they said Mercruiser did not have an effecient design in that prop and they have one that could do just what I was wanting ...... it is 4 blades in front and 4 blades in the back, but it's $1200. I just can't see having this much power and spinning at such a high rpm for a decent cruise speed with the Bravo III 22P. The new one would be a 24.
 
Hi donewithwork,

I have a 2004 260 with a little less HP, and the numbers you mention seem about right. I can hit about 34 MPH trimmed out perfectly, but honestly, I never put it up there.

I know I am a cheap New Englander, but I don't think the 260 is made for blasting around at high speeds, and putting $1,200 high performance props on a 260 is like spending big money putting racing slicks on a nice SUV.

If the performance upgrade could help me save $1,200 in a season for fuel, I would do it in a second. But I doubt I could ever see the benefit in a number or heavy cruising seasons.

Congrats on the new boat, she rides like a charm!
 
I have 260HP and the same 22" props (2.20 drive ratio). My boat is always loaded up (never "light"), but I can touch 40MPH at about 4,900RPM - verified on GPS. There's no question that this isn't a sport boat, but I've been quite impressed with it's performance. It's pretty quick out of the hole and I can easily pull a slalom skier. When I use the tabs, there's even more of a difference as they have a very noticeable impact on performance.

I agree with thoughts above about the props. I think someone is trying to bait you into a sale of new props. The Bravo III props are very good props - to say they're inefficient is simply a sales tactic. That's not to say there aren't better props (Merc even now makes 4-bladed props), but the difference is going to be very slight and IMO, absolutely not worth the money - too much money for such a very small return.

Check bottom condition.
 
Hmmmmmm. Mine are 26" pitch with the 5.7EFI 260HP. I'm cruising around 23 knots (27-28MPH) at 34-3500 RPM. Mine are the original 3 blade BravoIII.
 
This is the cruising range that I believed I was going to get and to say yours is a 26P lends me to the thoughts of the Propeller guy saying his 24P is closer to being right. Since an approximate effecient cruising rpm, in my thoughts, was going to be about 3300-3400 rpm, my current configuration would get me cruising maybe 21mph if I now am at 18.5mph @ 3000rpm .... so, for me to cruise at 28mph, I may have to spinning at 4000rpm. In my mind that is very high to cruise at and turns into a gas guzzler. I read a few times somewhere that some 260 guys were getting up to 43mph at WOT, so I was stunned to experience a mere 35.5mph at my WOT of 4900rpm.
I am very aware and never wanted a speed boat for this 260 .... just that top speed at WOT gives one an indication of the performance and the area of where your cruise level can be. My boat gets out and on plane very quickly and there is no vibration to the outdrive and the 6.2L motor is smooth as a Swiss timepiece....... oh, I don't know what the outdrive ratio it is and don't know where to find out. I looked at all of the papers I have and can't dig anything up.
Also, I really don't think the Prop guy is giving me a sales tactic. I gave him my speed and rpm numbers and he was taking his time figuring out everything from his charts. He has been around a long time and I saw a number of reviews and he said he has repropped hundreds of SeaRays. It's also not a situation of praying that we guess right on the props from his calculations the first time, because he says if the performance is not what I want, he'll gladly exchange it for any other that will satisfy my performance desires.
So, I'm learning more as I read from 260 guys and there does seem to be different opinions and performance levels from boat to boat. I don't want to spend any more on this expensive boat than I already have (am way-way over budget) but I don't wish to cruise at such a slow speed or beat the engine to death at high rpms ..... so was just trying to figure out what my problem is.... just reread Lazy Daze post, the bottom is clean and was painted in 2011.
Just found my ratio is 2:43 ...... also talked to the Prop guy and he said slippage is good at WOT 4900rpm is 16%, but poor at 3000 with 30% slippage. I have got to do some work on my trailer because I got a new electric winch and need to wire everything to my van with a new roller and snatch block on the bow stop and also put in a new brake line section because I pinched it closed (bad trailer line placement by builder). Then I can put it back in the water for a test .... the Prop guy said I can borrow one for a test to see the difference. He said the rpms may go too low if I put on a 24P .............. recalculating ...... by 400 rpms ..... may try his 22P 4x4, thanks, Phil
 
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Wood136, can you tell me your cruise speed and rpms and what your WOT rpm and speed is? Thanks, Phil
 
DoneWith - If nothing else is wrong, you should be able to get well into (and, really, towards the top or a bit over) with the way the boat came from the factory. Isn't your WOT 5200RPM on that motor? The problem I have with swapping props is that you may not be addressing an underlying cause. Good prop shops, while knowledgeable, are in the business to sell props - not necessarily to figure out a possible problem. If everything is stock (and no issues), you should be getting more performance out of your boat. Swapping to higher pitch (or simply a different style prop, but same pitch) is not the answer. But, possibly a lower pitched prop...

In checking the Sea Ray prop matrix, the standard props for your setup would be 20" (although sometimes changes are made throughout the model year) --- which should get you back up to where the RPM's should be. So, it's possible that the wrong props are on there. Whether this is the entire cause for your loss of performance would remain to be seen. But, it's conceivable that the lower pitch could be more than offset by the increased RPM.

Are you trimming up as high as possible?
 
I talked to SeaRay and Mercury Marine and found that I don't have the same outdrive as left the facory for my 2004 260DA boat. I have a 6.2L and it requires a 2:20 ratio and not the 2:43 that is currently on the boat. The sticker on the outdrive is stamped with a 2:43 and Mercury says that would be for a high altitude application and I have the BravoIII 22P prop and not the 20P that is configuered for the 2:20 outdrive. Bums me out because it'll be $2000 for the gear change, ( just paid $1400 for all new seals and a new impeller housing) then I'll try out the existing 22P on the new gears to see if it will be in an acceptable range .... don't want to get new blades but perhaps I can find a good used 20P then sell my 22P, hopefully for the same price.
 
Yeh, my 6.2 runs quite well, but now I found out the ratio and prop are not the ones required for the 260DA. It blasts out of the hole and would probably rip the arms off of a skier ...... I think I can get it up to 5000rpm in something like 10-12 seconds ( just guessing doing a countdown ). It says the 6.2 WOT is 4800-5200 and Mercury Marine says the speed with a 20P is between 42 and 46mph WOT. Mine right now is 36mph@ 5000rpm. Not sure, but if I go to the 2:20 ratio can I keep the Bravo III 22P and have it maybe drop rpms to around 4600 and be OK ? Or is that still considered lugging it ?
 
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