The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

B.matt said:
Does anyone know what size the riser extensions are on the 7.4l. Would like to order exhast manifold but won't be able to make it to the boat to measure.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Mine are 3"
 
Thought I'd update you all since several were kind enough to give me some guidance. To recap, I was only reaching about 3800-4000 RPM on Sundancer I just bought in July with 5.7 Merc. Only other symptom was some water in bilge after running all day (not much). Took to two mechanics - both said water in cylinders and could be anything from head gasket to crack in block. I chose one of the mechanics with good rep and let them proceed with taking the engine out. Over the last few weeks, I have prepared myself for worse-case and was ready to re-power. Turns out to be leak down from manifold (which both initially told me was unlikely). Manifolds are original (2001) and had a leak in port side from a plug which was fixed before purchase. When the broker's shop took that manifold off to drill the plug, they showed it too me and said there was plenty of life left in it - and the starboard should be the same. Since I spent cash buying the boat, I thought I would wait until fall and replace manifolds/risers as "preventative" maintenance. Bottom line, head deemed not to be bad and having sent out for valve job. Having dry-joint manifolds and new risers installed. Otherwise, getting a diagnosis of "everything else looks good" and hoping it is correct.
Total bill estimated to be $3500 ($1600 manifolds/risers, $300 valve job, balance labor).
As I am a novice when it comes to marine engines (I stood over the mechanics shoulder most of the day as he tore the engine down and learned quite a bit) - I would welcome any feedback on diagnosis and cost estimate. Never thought I'd be happy to have a bill for $3500, but considering alternatives....
I am now excited about boating again and can't wait to get back on the water.
Thanks again for previous responses.
Al
 
I replaced my coupler and exhaust last spring. It around the same cost as you are paying but you're not replacing the coupler and I didn't have head work being done. If you do get the dry joint, which I recommend, they'll have to pay close attention to the elbows and risers. There is a proper set up needed as the angle of the elbows are slightly different if I recall correctly.

Good luck.
[video=youtube;E3KN8IIh4Fw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3KN8IIh4Fw&list=TLaKWQOz6eX5I[/video]
 
Nehalennia said:
I replaced my coupler and exhaust last spring. It around the same cost as you are paying but you're not replacing the coupler and I didn't have head work being done. If you do get the dry joint, which I recommend, they'll have to pay close attention to the elbows and risers. There is a proper set up needed as the angle of the elbows are slightly different if I recall correctly.

Good luck.
[video=youtube;E3KN8IIh4Fw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3KN8IIh4Fw&list=TLaKWQOz6eX5I[/video]
Click to expand...
Todd,
That bilge was disgustingly dirty. Can't believe you would even show that on video! What were you thinking?
:smt043
 
I know Ron,
I did clean it up right after that. I was embarrassed.
 
Don't be so harsh on your self. Boats always have issues (especially used boats just comes with the territory). Hopefully this I your only major issue and you have many years to laugh at it on the boat. Will you be able to get it back in the water before the end of the season?

dave
 
All
Again, thanks for your comments and input - extremely helpful and encouraging.
I've had the boat back for two weeks now. Went with the dry-joint and feel good about that. Total bill was about $5300 ($3000 in labor) - don't feel so good about that. I have put about seven hours on the motor since - including a trip to Cape Charles this past weekend. Still not turning more than 4200RPM/36mph. Mechanic said everything is running perfectly and mechanically sound...only conclusion is prop (24in). I am satisfied that all is well mechanically and will address prop in the spring to see if 22in will get me closer (+400RPM).
Meantime, I have some much anticipated boating to do. I am leaving next Sunday with my father (flying in from Pittsburgh). First stop is Tangier Isl for the night...then on to St Michaels for a week long family reunion (rented a house with a dock...I'm staying on the boat!).
Anyways - very excited to be boating, love the sea ray, and already forgetting about the repair bill.
Thanks all.
Al
 
Al, Glad to hear you are back out there running. When I had the 5.7 in my boat I was running 24p props on my B3 and the numbers you are getting - 36 mph @ 4200 rpm were about the best I could get out of mine in real world conditions - half tank of fuel, half tank of fresh water, 5 - 6 hundred lbs of folks onboard (captain included) and all the gear we normally keep on the boat from paper plates, toilet paper, gas grill to extra motor oil, drive lube, tools, spare filters, etc., etc. The other guys on here with the 5.7 / B3 / 24p props combo can probably give you better guidance on top end, but I just could never get much better. I do have a painted bottom and think that extra drag was a factor as well.
 
It's been awhile since I've been WOT, but I seem to recall 4600 and 38ish. I'll try next time I'm out and let you know.
 
Anyone know where to get (if they are even available ) skylight covers /inserts to block sun in then cabin for those overnight trips ? Hatch has a sliding screen but nothing came with boat for skylights ...
2011 260 da .
Thanks for any help !
 
Thought I would follow up on this thread now that the problem appears to be solved. Research pointed more in the direction of spark, not fuel, as the source of the stumble, since it happened only at rpms below 1000. Since I didn't know any of the maintenance history I decided to start with changing the cap, rotor, and wires. I'm pretty sure they were the originals. No change to performance, however, although it did seem to run better (but that could well have been my imagination). Changed the fuel filter too, since there's a good chance it was pretty old (part number was different...). Again, no change. At this point I discussed with a couple of techs and they suggested a test drive with a laptop connected, so that's what we did next. Got the laptop set up and started it up. No codes had been tripped, so we went out on the river and up to speed, then slowed down. Got a bit of a stumble but nothing showed on the laptop. He had me put it in neutral and we sat there for a bit idling. After a few moments, it cut out three times in quick succession. That should have tripped a code. Nope, nothing. Back to the marina where I left it with them to do more testing. I called later and the main tech had discussed with two others and had Mercruiser on the phone. The only thing they figured it could be was the ECM, so they ordered one and installed it (not sure how that kid fit back there because I had to use a mirror to change the cap and rotor). Their test drive saw no stumble or cutting out. I took it out Saturday and it ran like a top all day long, so I'm pretty sure that was it. Sure glad to have that taken care of before it gets hauled out for the season because I didn't like the thought of wondering all winter what the problem was!
 
IslandTime said:
Anyone know where to get (if they are even available ) skylight covers /inserts to block sun in then cabin for those overnight trips ? Hatch has a sliding screen but nothing came with boat for skylights ...
2011 260 da .
Thanks for any help !
Click to expand...
The guys with your vintage boat are on here to help.
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/414-260-Sundancer-Thread-Comments-questions-and-answers

kilroy said:
Thought I would follow up on this thread now that the problem appears to be solved. Research pointed more in the direction of spark, not fuel, as the source of the stumble, since it happened only at rpms below 1000. Since I didn't know any of the maintenance history I decided to start with changing the cap, rotor, and wires. I'm pretty sure they were the originals. No change to performance, however, although it did seem to run better (but that could well have been my imagination). Changed the fuel filter too, since there's a good chance it was pretty old (part number was different...). Again, no change. At this point I discussed with a couple of techs and they suggested a test drive with a laptop connected, so that's what we did next. Got the laptop set up and started it up. No codes had been tripped, so we went out on the river and up to speed, then slowed down. Got a bit of a stumble but nothing showed on the laptop. He had me put it in neutral and we sat there for a bit idling. After a few moments, it cut out three times in quick succession. That should have tripped a code. Nope, nothing. Back to the marina where I left it with them to do more testing. I called later and the main tech had discussed with two others and had Mercruiser on the phone. The only thing they figured it could be was the ECM, so they ordered one and installed it (not sure how that kid fit back there because I had to use a mirror to change the cap and rotor). Their test drive saw no stumble or cutting out. I took it out Saturday and it ran like a top all day long, so I'm pretty sure that was it. Sure glad to have that taken care of before it gets hauled out for the season because I didn't like the thought of wondering all winter what the problem was!
Click to expand...
Good news.
 
What batteries is everyone using. It's time to change mine. The boat has 2 duralast 27dp 800 cca in it now. Haven't had the boat long enough to know if the where any good.
 
B.matt said:
What batteries is everyone using. It's time to change mine. The boat has 2 duralast 27dp 800 cca in it now. Haven't had the boat long enough to know if the where any good.
Click to expand...

I have an Interstate group 27 Marine Deep Cycle for my starting battery (#1) and 2 Costco Kirkland 6V golf cart Batteries in series for the house side. I've had them for 2.5 years now and I'm very happy with the set up.
 
Hi just thought I would drop a line and let you know I am selling my 260 DA and that I appreciate all the advice on this forum in the last few years. We decided to buy a house on cape cod and will probably end up buying a center console to zip around down there with and do some fishing. I wish you folks the best and again thanks for all the advice when I needed it. If you know anyone in the area that wants to buy a nice clean 260 let me know!

Ron
 
Wow Ron. Best of luck, but sad to see you go. You should still hang around here though.
 
Thanks Todd. I will definitely lurk on this site. It is truly a wealth of info because of folks like you.
 
Well things have changed quickly. The Marina that is selling my boat on consignment is also doing the winterization work. Got a call from them today saying that the boat wouldn't start and upon further investigation they found water in two of the cylinders when taking off the spark plugs. Have no other info other than that at the moment. Looking for advice on next steps. I'm thinking this will end up costing me $4k to $6k to find and fix problem. I'm including the cost of replacing risers/manifolds because its close to that time as well and suspect that may be the problem but not really sure. So my first thought is to re-p0wer and just keep the boat instead of selling because I don't think I will recoup the cost. Any thoughts out there? Anyone who may have been in the same position? Thanks
 
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