The "Famous" Cabin Door Issues

[bbwhitejr]

I have searched and read every thread on CSR as well as everything google can pull up so if someone knows something I missed, please point me in the right direction.

I have been aware of the cabin door issues that face most Sundancers at some point in there life. I have babied mine all the while knowing there was a little "slop" in it. It has gotten progressively worse and I am trying to research correct parts and any procedures to keep me from having to pull the helm. Mine has the white Poly Glide(plastic) blocks that are attached to the top of the door and slide in an aluminum track. Their is nothing wrong with the track. After reading everything I could find, I "assumed" my Poly Glide blocks were screwed to the top of the door as I could see the heads of what I thought were screws. I have tried to tighten them, but they just spin.

Today, for starters, I thought I would pull one of the screws and maybe try the next size to see if I could make it last a bit longer. As I gently pried up on the head as I turned it, it came out. They are not regular screws, but 2.5-3" machine screws. Either the Poly Glide blocks are threaded or there are small nuts that belong on them. I have tried to back out the other three but I cannot get them to move upward, though they spin freely. I suppose there are nuts on the end that are loose and cannot be tightened without access.

Nowhere in all of my research have I heard of machine screws/nuts being used in this application. FP has some Poly Glide blocks for screws, but none that are through-drilled.

Any thoughts, ideas, or suggestions on who to call or where I might find a drawing or some other knowledge would be much appreciated. Looks like I will also need to find instructions for pulling the helm or at least removing enough to lean it back.:smt021:huh:

Bennett

 

[Bucit]

I have replaced the tops blocks as you've mentioned. They are plastic and have a nut built into them. If the block is cracked the nut will spin and the screw will not come out. You should be able to slide something in from underneath to hold it while you unscrew the screw. It wasn't too bad of a job except for my track was too long and the blocks wouldn't come out. I had to shorten it a hair and then install the new ones.

 

[bbwhitejr]

I have replaced the tops blocks as you've mentioned. They are plastic and have a nut built into them. If the block is cracked the nut will spin and the screw will not come out. You should be able to slide something in from underneath to hold it while you unscrew the screw. It wasn't too bad of a job except for my track was too long and the blocks wouldn't come out. I had to shorten it a hair and then install the new ones.

Well, that explains it. Where did you get the new poly glide blocks and how did you get something under the one closest to the starboard side?

Many thanks,
Bennett

 

[Bucit]

I got my blocks from MM. I want to say they were $30 a piece or close to that. Rip off for sure. LOl I can't remember what I used. I thought it was a small, long shanked standard screw driver but may have been a very thin piece of metal? It was 1-2 years ago. The door has a little play so you should be able to lift it up and give you a little extra room.

 

[bbwhitejr]

One last question...are the nuts "made" into the block? Are they glued up into it or something similar so that a good block keeps the nut from turning and allows you to just tighten the screw w/o having to try and hold the nut?

Thanks again,
Bennett

 

[araxton]

I fixed my door earlier this season. Was determined to do it without removing the helm. In the end, I was successful. Two keys were 1.A very thin profile 90 degree screw driver (ratchet) and 2.Cutting the bottom track in two. I was very hesitant to cut the track, but figured there was no possible way for it to go back in and, if it didn't work, I would simply have to buy a new track and remove the helm. I cut it just past the edge of the open door position, so you can't see it. I cut it with a water jet, so there is only a .3mm gap. I placed an extra screw before and aft the cut. When it all went back together, it works beautifully and no "hack job" is visible. The only thing I had to replace was the roller balls. I also used thicker screws to secure the track to the door. For additional support, I put a bead of 5000 calking between the door and the track before screwing it down. Everything seems to be very solid, opens and closes with a light push, and didn't cost $2k as I have heard (as I would have had the yard remove the helm if no other option). Good luck.

 

[Bucit]

One last question...are the nuts "made" into the block? Are they glued up into it or something similar so that a good block keeps the nut from turning and allows you to just tighten the screw w/o having to try and hold the nut?

Thanks again,
Bennett

Yes the nut looked to be placed into the plastic piece while it was being made(formed). No way to put a wrench on it.

 

[bbwhitejr]

Thanks guys! My bottom seems fine, the top is the issue. I am hunting the 2-top blocks now. Once I have them in my hand, I will proceed.

Bucit-Which end of the track did you cut slightly(how much?) and what did you use to cut it with? I am assuming you cut it in place?

Thanks again,
Bennett

 

[Bucit]

Once I got the screws out I slid the blocks to the port side. I think in hindsight if you take out a couple of the screws in the track you may be able to move the track enough to get the blocks out and the new ones back in. I used a dremel style tool and I have to say it was a pain in the ass to cut since there was no room.

 

[JimG]

Can someone provide a measurement of the delrin roller balls? Fpmarine wants $10 each... from other sources $1 or less each.

 

[bbwhitejr]

Once I got the screws out I slid the blocks to the port side. I think in hindsight if you take out a couple of the screws in the track you may be able to move the track enough to get the blocks out and the new ones back in. I used a dremel style tool and I have to say it was a pain in the ass to cut since there was no room.

I can see taking as many screws out of the track as possible and then "shimming" it up without bending it to get them out/in. Thanks for all of the information. I am working on getting the blocks now and hope to tackle next week. I will let you know how I come out.

Again, Many Thanks!

Jim-can't help you with the balls on the bottom track. So far, my bottom track is good.

Bennett

 

[BryanOnTheBay]

Can someone provide a measurement of the delrin roller balls? Fpmarine wants $10 each... from other sources $1 or less each.

I went with the FP balls. They are about 1/2" in diameter. I couldn't find anything close. I was spending more than $9 of time. Also, I get the top blocks for mine from FP, though the profile was a bit tight, and needed a touch of filing to fit.

Bryan

 

[bbwhitejr]

I got my blocks from MM. I want to say they were $30 a piece or close to that. Rip off for sure. LOl I can't remember what I used. I thought it was a small, long shanked standard screw driver but may have been a very thin piece of metal? It was 1-2 years ago. The door has a little play so you should be able to lift it up and give you a little extra room.

Bucit,

I am having trouble finding the blocks. Which MM did you get them from?

Thanks,
Bennett

 

[bbwhitejr]

I thought I would post the part number here just in case someone could benefit from my research. Thanks to "Bucit" for helping me understand what I was looking for. I needed the white plastic blocks that the top of my cabin door slides on. Originally, I thought they were just screwed on with SS wood screws until I removed one only to find a 3" machine screw. The plastic blocks have nuts recessed into them from the bottom. The screw then goes through the door and through the block and threads into the nut to tighten it down. According to FP, SR made these on their own or had someone else make them and FP does not have them. 3 SR dealers looking for these blocks have not found them. Finally, I called MM today and they suggested I call SR. 7 hours later-here is the part number:

Sea Ray Part Number...: 2078306 BLOCK, NYLON 1.43"X 1 1/8"X 1"WHT F/1 .

FP did not know exactly when the change was made or for how many years they used these or what boats they were used on.

Bennett

 

[bbwhitejr]

Got my nylon blocks for the upper track from SR-$63 delivered to my door. Took 2-3 hours with several bad words, but got them changed. Most of the time was spent removing 3 of the 4-2.5" machine screws with nylon lock nuts on them and you cannot get to them.

Track cleaned red and sprayed with some dry Teflon spray. Works much better.

Bennett

 

[Pilot Traveler]

Got my nylon blocks for the upper track from SR-$63 delivered to my door. Took 2-3 hours with several bad words, but got them changed. Most of the time was spent removing 3 of the 4-2.5" machine screws with nylon lock nuts on them and you cannot get to them.

Track cleaned red and sprayed with some dry Teflon spray. Works much better.

Bennett

Hello, blocks came off the door on my 2004 260 and it would great to know how to get them back in place. Thank you.

 

[bbwhitejr]

Hello, blocks came off the door on my 2004 260 and it would great to know how to get them back in place. Thank you.

So you have the blocks where you can look at them? Do you see the nuts made into them? If you have no holes in the top forward edge of your door, you are dealing with something different.

Bennett