Thank you for the help - Replaced IAC

It was the "fuzzy brown thing" that gave it away. It's supposed to be white. hahaha.
 
TurtleTone said:
It was the "fuzzy brown thing" that gave it away. It's supposed to be white. hahaha.
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It's supposed to be white?!!??? :smt101 I had no idea - nothing to compare it to... :smt043
 
Well this is pretty interesting. I've seen lots of posts about IAC's but was not sure if it stood for the Idle Air Controller valve or not in the boating world. I have worked with them on many cars and know the symptoms of a bad one. I think i only had to replace one once, but the other times i was able to clean it up and it worked fine after that.

Are all of you guys replacing it sure that it is seized up and cleaning wouldn't have worked?

Earlier this spring I was having issues keeping my engine running at idle. Giving it gas it ran fine. Since it was my first winter with a boat and winterizing with Stabil, I wasn't sure if it was bad gas or not causing that. After reading this and other threads I am pretty sure that mine was acting up. It did it a couple days and then was fine for a few weeks, then another day at idle once. Never killed the engine though.
 
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glocklt4 said:
Well this is pretty interesting. I've seen lots of posts about IAC's but was not sure if it stood for the Idle Air Controller valve or not in the boating world. I have worked with them on many cars and know the symptoms of a bad one. I think i only had to replace one once, but the other times i was able to clean it up and it worked fine after that.

Are all of you guys replacing it sure that it is seized up and cleaning wouldn't have worked?

Earlier this spring I was having issues keeping my engine running at idle. Giving it gas it ran fine. Since it was my first winter with a boat and winterizing with Stabil, I wasn't sure if it was bad gas or not causing that. After reading this and other threads I am pretty sure that mine was acting up. It did it a couple days and then was fine for a few weeks, then another day at idle once. Never killed the engine though.
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How many hours are on the boat? I wonder if its in that magic 200 mark?!?!
 
gnealon said:
How many hours are on the boat? I wonder if its in that magic 200 mark?!?!
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In sig. 105 hours. It started doing it earlier in the season when we had about 75-80 on it though. It's a 2005, so maybe age has to do with it too, not just hours.

So anyone tried just cleaning it?? :)
 
$48 later, I've got an automotive IAC and a boat that runs like a champ! Couldn't tell you what kind of car it comes from, but I think it's a Ford. Beats the heck out of the $125 that the boat dealer wanted for the same part.

Auto part on the left, Mercruiser part on the right.

IMG_6938.jpg
 
TexasA&M said:
$48 later, I've got an automotive IAC and a boat that runs like a champ! Couldn't tell you what kind of car it comes from, but I think it's a Ford. Beats the heck out of the $125 that the boat dealer wanted for the same part.

Auto part on the left, Mercruiser part on the right.

IMG_6938.jpg
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Something tells me the Ford unit is NOT ignition proof. I'd hate to find out the hard way. :wow::wow::wow: Merc part is epoxy coated and sealed.... aperture opening is different also. Don't know if that makes a difference. :huh:

Hellofalot cheaper though...
 
doesn't look like the same part to me.
 
Hmm yeah, $48 vs $80 that someone posted at boats.net i think... i think i'd stick with $32 more for ignition proof to save an insurance claim :). Cool that you found a replacement that works though!
 
The openings are different, but the base is the same, which is all that matters. All the valve does is open and close so that air can pass through.

Regarding the ignition proof comments, how exactly would the Merc part be ignition proof while the other isn't?
 
the bases aren't the same. In the new part, it's got cutouts that overlap the openings on the old part.
 
TexasA&M said:
The openings are different, but the base is the same, which is all that matters. All the valve does is open and close so that air can pass through.

Regarding the ignition proof comments, how exactly would the Merc part be ignition proof while the other isn't?
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More than likely Mercury has a requirement from U.L. Testing Laboratories that it pass some sort of gas chamber - ignition testing and Merc uses an epoxy impregnation process to totally seal the coil / electrical connection from igniting fuel fumes - like the ones in your engine room - even if the part fails (shorts). No such requirement for a car as it's open to air.

That's more than likely why the part costs double - because U.L. charges an arm and a leg to certify and do on site manufacturing testing at the manufacturer to make sure they comply with the standards.

(My brother used to work for U.L. as field test rep. A manufacturer manager once pulled a gun on him after being told his product could not ship out the door with the U.L. sticker because his product failed inspection) :wow::wow::wow:
 
TurtleTone said:
the bases aren't the same. In the new part, it's got cutouts that overlap the openings on the old part.
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The base IS the same in that the outer mounting surface is exactly the same as the original part. The mounting holes line up perfectly and the footprint sits exactly as original. The size/shape of the flow holes don't matter because the air still flows without issue. If there wasn't enough air flowing (because the holes were too small), the motor wouldn't run (or would idle poorly).

That is interesting about the replacement part from Sea Ray. How much did they charge for the part?
 
You are correct, sorry for any confusion. Other than some kind of coating, I wouldn't think anything could be different between the marine and automotive version of this valve.
 
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