fxsales
New Member
- Mar 26, 2009
- 159
- Boat Info
- 1990 Laguna Cuddy
Twin 1997 Mariner 135's
- Engines
- 1997 twin Mariner 135's
Hey Y'all,
After reading a few threads on differ views of oiling/staining/poly I decided to show how I do it. When I lived up north oil would suffice on the little wood my boats had. After moving to Florida with year round sun and fun I quit using oil, as the maintenance was unbearable. Now that I have this 76' 300SRV, which is LOADED with teak I have been sold on Minwax Spar Polyurethane
I now use MinWax Helsman Spar Polyurethane/High Gloss. Typically on oncovered surfaces like the gunwhale and some trim several coats will last well over a year in the Florida sun. If you catch it before it starts to peel of bubble all you need to do is light sanding of the old poly, and recoat.
Now I'm not a severe perfectionist, but I usually try and put between 7-10 coats. I typically use cheapo foam brushes you can buy from Harbor Freight for about a quarter each in a bulk bag. I've tried expensive brushes, but didn't get any better results, and I throw away the foam ones after each coat.
The key to getting a good flat finish is to have it sanded very smooth, and put the poly on fairly thick, and fast. I learned that trying to touch up a ripple will cause you to have to resand and start over. I even used this stuff to finish my outside pool bar, and it's been three years with no touch ups.....
Here's a few of the before and afters. (There's miles of teak on the cockpit, here's just a few)
Bridge before and after
Stairs to bridge
The guys at the marina (mostly fishermen) said to remove all the teak and put on starboard... I said,"If I'm going to have a 35 year old boat, it going to look like a 35 year old boat.... only better..
Be careful with the blue tape taping this off. No matter what the tape roll says about 5 days max or this stuff is a ***** to get off.... I'll do a couple more coats when a I have a few days to spare...... Next project..... monkey fur replacement....
Y'all have fun now....
j
After reading a few threads on differ views of oiling/staining/poly I decided to show how I do it. When I lived up north oil would suffice on the little wood my boats had. After moving to Florida with year round sun and fun I quit using oil, as the maintenance was unbearable. Now that I have this 76' 300SRV, which is LOADED with teak I have been sold on Minwax Spar Polyurethane
I now use MinWax Helsman Spar Polyurethane/High Gloss. Typically on oncovered surfaces like the gunwhale and some trim several coats will last well over a year in the Florida sun. If you catch it before it starts to peel of bubble all you need to do is light sanding of the old poly, and recoat.
Now I'm not a severe perfectionist, but I usually try and put between 7-10 coats. I typically use cheapo foam brushes you can buy from Harbor Freight for about a quarter each in a bulk bag. I've tried expensive brushes, but didn't get any better results, and I throw away the foam ones after each coat.
The key to getting a good flat finish is to have it sanded very smooth, and put the poly on fairly thick, and fast. I learned that trying to touch up a ripple will cause you to have to resand and start over. I even used this stuff to finish my outside pool bar, and it's been three years with no touch ups.....
Here's a few of the before and afters. (There's miles of teak on the cockpit, here's just a few)
Bridge before and after
Stairs to bridge
The guys at the marina (mostly fishermen) said to remove all the teak and put on starboard... I said,"If I'm going to have a 35 year old boat, it going to look like a 35 year old boat.... only better..
Be careful with the blue tape taping this off. No matter what the tape roll says about 5 days max or this stuff is a ***** to get off.... I'll do a couple more coats when a I have a few days to spare...... Next project..... monkey fur replacement....
Y'all have fun now....
j
