Teak flooring in cabin?

What would you do around any hatches in the floor. For example just out side my head I have a 10" x 24" access panel for the shower sump. Any suggestions?
 
here's a dumb idea, and maybe the pro hardwood guys could comment. why not use 3/4" solid teak 3" boards, like BR-111? i've installed this in my house myself and it looks like a million bucks. the finish will outlive all of us and it's about $7/sq ft (i think there are 22 square in a box). i suppose the problems would be the thickness - 3/4" is a mile when you are dealing with low "ceilings" like on a boat. also, how do you install it on a boat? guess you cant use 2" staples.

http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwoodinstaller/br111-brazilian-teak-34-inch-solid.htm
 
Daniel, all flooring has corresponding transition pieces made to match it - T moldings, quarter round, transition end pieces, etc. You could "frame" the hatch with a transition piece the same way you would if you were installing the floor in your house and had to deal with vents on the floor, doorway trim areas, etc.

As for the teak I don't see why it wouldn't work but yeah 3/4" is real thick for a boat floor. You'd also need to look very closely everywhere around the edges of where the 3/4" thick floor would be installed and make sure that it wouldn't mess anything up. It would be embarrasing to install that floor and then discover that you can't open your head anymore because the floor is now higher than the bottom of the head door, LOL :grin: As far as laying down flooring designed to be nailed/stapled down, you can still glue down any floor with the right adhesive and skip the flooring staples.

Many hardwood floors that come in 3/4" naildown are also sold in 3/8" gluedown strips too; maybe that teak has a corresponding 3/8" gluedown product.

That vinyl Karndeal stuff that I linked to in the post above is only maybe 1/8" ~ 1/4" thick and some of the styles mimic teak. I really do suggest taking a real hard look into trying that stuff out. I've never seen the Plasteak stuff that Jackson mention but that sounds like it's worth looking into also.
 
flooring

I am at the point now that I have all the carpet ripped out and don't know if I want to do the wood or wood "type" flooring, or just lay the new carpet down. I have the factory carpet to match. The question here is that there are so many different types of floorings that have been mentioned, I don't know which one would be best. I want something fairly easy to install that will last. My boat is not temperature controlled year round and is laid up in the winter.

GJarret - If you can, check out MarineLam laminate flooring. Wordpanel.com has it and it doesn't look bad. Does it need a subfloor other than the cabin floor?
 
flooring

On a side note, after I ripped up the carpet I noticed that the floor isn't exactly level. It's not bad, but there are a few dimples and bumps. Why the hell doesn't Searay have fiberglass cabin liners with removable carpet like some other brands? I noticed this on the new Four Winns at the recent boat show. It was a nice feature to be able to pull the cabin carpet right out. I guess that could be a whole other thread!
 
Hi,
I'm a new and stumbled upon this site and think it's great.
We've owned several Sea Rays, had 2 foot itis, going through 4 boats until staying with the 2006 260 Sundancer and love it.
My wife are in the process of replacing the cockpit carpet, yep, rubber backing gone, yellow staining as it breaks down.
I read everything you guys wrote andwent further checking Sea Ray for replacement with different/new type backing and got a price of $656.00/$585.00 as a Marinemax customer.
I am waiting for Quality Marine in Clearwater to get back with me for a price, plus I have some questions about doing a few more things, maybe teak flooring inside. I'm going blind reading so much to find the right type of material.

My wife likes the look of the teak flooring and maybe doing something inside the cabin to dressup the inside some. All the new Sea Rays, was just there today have the teak flooring inside. They looked beautiful. They also changed the cockpit floor layouts, adding a rear fold down seating arrangement that chopped up the nice flow of the older Sundancers. They renumbered the models, the 280 is a replacement for the 2006 260 Sundancer, etc.
 
NuTeak has a web site that may be what your looking for. www.nuteak.com Sea Ray...viking..... and ocean yachts use it . the interior material is about 10.00SF. The cost comes from making the floor flat. when you pull the carpet you'll see what I mean. troughs between the longitudinal members. but with some 26 grit sanding and west system epoxy with filler you can flatten what needs to be.I'm in the middle of doing mine as we speak. I'm having their distributor do the install but I'm preping the floor.
 
Finished my flooring in May just before launch.
Used an Engineered Product from Lumber Liquidators called
Schon Engineered Floors in a Brazilian Cherry Finish.
Also pulled out the stairs and made new ones out of Jatoba Wood

Total cost about $300.00
Lots of beer and time involved, but well worth the upgrade.
This fall I will pull the carpet off of the vertical surfaces and replace with new.

P1010468.jpg


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That looks great!!! This is one of the many projects on my list.
Is this product water resistant?? I was considering the Allure product untill I saw your results.
Tony
 
I wanted to make a half- suggestion... Member
CINCY AQUAHOLIC did this in the head....



And somewhere else... although I've now spent 1hr searching for it Is a photo of someone who did teir 280 sd cabin sole in the same style.
Maybe you could do something like tis to let the water drain through and be removable to clean and not have to rip out carpet that is just ok.....
 
I have used laminate in my cabin for 3 yrs now without any issues. I was only expecting to get a couple of seasons with it, but it has no signs of needing to be replaced. If it gets wet, I wipe it up. I also have a 5 yr old and 2 yr old. So water does find it's way into the cabin every weekend. Just installed it as a floating floor, no glue. Can take it up and put back down in 10 minutes if I have to.

I have flexiteak in the head.
 
Tony
The Schon Engineered Floors are:
Solid Hardwood Layer
Nail, Glue Down or Float
Approved for over concrete
Approved for below grade install

I looked at the Allure stuff at first and actually used it on a job.
The Allure doesn't even compare the this stuff.

I figured for the price, if I have to replace it in a few years
Not a problem, plus I will have all of the cuts!!!
The admiral loves it and a weekend doesn't go by
without someone on the docks
wanting to see the install.

Dan
 
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posted a reply earlier but don't see it, so I'll try this again.. www.Nuteak.com is a site I would suggest you look at. Sea Ray, Viking and Ocean yachts, I believe,use this product. The interior material is only about $10.00 a SF. The cost is in the prep work. The floor needs to be FLAT.You may find troughs between the logitudinal members which need to be filled. With that said ,26 grit paper on a disc preps the floor. West System epoxy with filler of duaglass will do the trick .once its flat you can either but 1/4 " ply (no luan) down and call the distributor for the install price, or install it yourself. The company is very friendly and the distributor in Point Pleasant Beach is very helpfull with questions and advice. hope this helps.
 
I installed a solid Teak and Holly floor in my cabin a few weeks ago. So far it has been great!! I have had the dogs on it, spilled on it, dropped a drill on it :smt009 and held up great!!

Sorry for the poor quality pic!
 

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Or...How about teak carpeting?! :grin:

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