T.V. on battery??

Drama Queen

New Member
Feb 13, 2008
369
Can any of you turn the T.V. on using the batteries instead of starting up the genny? Just curious, some friends of mine with a Rinker insist they can use their T.V. and outlets using the batteries. But I haven't been able to figure out how to do this, is it even possible? Some secret switch that I don't know about or something?

Thanks in advance!!
 
thank you very much for this info. I swear I have flipped every switch I can find trying to make this happen with out running the genny. LOL If you could have seen me last time pulling out my hair you would be LOL too.
 
The could have a large inverter that changes 12 DC into 110 AC. That would allow them to run things on 110. BIG batteries or just common sense to keep the existing batteries from getting drained to low.
 
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I can't believe they have something on a Rinker that I don't have on my SeaRay. JK of course I am sure Rinkers are great boats.
 
DQ - on the back of the TV, can you see the cables?

Is there only the one cable that goes to the 120V outlet?

We have two power cables plus the coax (TV signal) cable.

One cable goes to the 120V outlet.
One cable goes to a 12V DC outlet.
One cable if for the round coax TV signal.
 
There are many TVs today that run on 12 volts without the need for an inverter. Sharp makes a line of 12v Aquos flatscreens. You also need a 12v converter box if you happen to have an analog flatscreen TV. These are also available and have been discussed on this and other sites.
 
nope only one power cord and they coaxel cable. That is probably my problem, one cord short. :) It's not really a big deal, but I was just wondering why they could do it and I couldn't.

I think it's time to update the TV anyway. really we should have a flat screen. I just don't like the placement for a flatscreen where the TV is at. It's just not going to look right. wah wah wah right? lol
 
The AC-only tube TV / VCR in the master stateroom was ripped out and replaced w/ an LCD TV / DVD. The model was selected to have a 12 VDC input, fed by a 120 VAC / 12 VDC power brick. I also added a 12 VDC VCR. The power brick that came w/ the TV was replaced w/ a larger one w/ enough capacity to power both the TV and VCR.

There is a switch to toggle from battery power to AC power, through the brick.

It's very handy, when watching the tube at night on hook to not have to jump up and flip off the gen, or leave it running all night.
 
without an inverter, there's no way you can plug the standard 120v wall outlet plug into an outlet and get the TV to work. there has to be a second power wire, with the typical "cigarette lighter" plug on the end. and this would have to be placed into a "cigarette lighter" outlet in the boat, IF the boat is so-equipped.

i wouldnt be surprised that the rinker guy has this setup and SR doesnt. rinker is known for giving all sorts of oddball options as standard equipment and still low-balling the competition on
price.

i wonder how they could possibly do that???
:smt115

I KNOW, cut corners on the more important stuff!
 
Ron,

This is what we have.

Behind the TV is both a 12V DC "cigarette lighter" plug, powered from the battery and a 120V AC plug, powered from either shore power or the generator.
 
on the flip side of odd-ball options, my friend has a 2001 maxum 33'. he has TWO 120 v outlets on the entire boat - one in the galley, one in the head. he bought the boat with a "convenience" package that was supposed to include a third outlet in the mid/aft cabin. it wasnt there when he took delivery. i have 9 outlets in this boat. galley, head, three in the salon, one in the small mid-stateroom, two in the master and one in the cockpit storage locker (which is a GFCI). i'm reasonably sure these were standard equipment in all 340DBs.
 
Ron,

This is what we have.

Behind the TV is both a 12V DC "cigarette lighter" plug, powered from the battery and a 120V AC plug, powered from either shore power or the generator.

This is correct, on my 04 280 the TV was an AC/DC (no jokes) and had two plugs, one as Doug said, "cigarette lighter", and the other A/C. That TV would run on the 12 volts without an inverter, generator, or shore power.

Now on my 06 320, the flat screen in the cabin required 110, so shore power or generator is required. The small flip down in the Aft Cabin will run on DC.

I don't understand why yours would not be DC compatible, as those TV's have been aroung a long time. Do you have a cigarette lighter plug anywhere behind the TV?
 
I could certainly be wrong on this one, but I seem to remember that an old neighbors 2000 290DA had a factory installed 9" TV that ONLY ran on DC....no AC.....but that was 6 years ago since I was last on that boat...my memory gets fuzzy that far back.
 
dom
my original 9" panasonics were AC/DC. the one in the salon was DOA when i bought the boat. the one in the master worked but was not cable ready (got only 13 channels) and all the people looked green. they are both long gone. so, you are probably correct in your fuzzy memories.
 
The AC-only tube TV / VCR in the master stateroom was ripped out and replaced w/ an LCD TV / DVD. The model was selected to have a 12 VDC input, fed by a 120 VAC / 12 VDC power brick. I also added a 12 VDC VCR. The power brick that came w/ the TV was replaced w/ a larger one w/ enough capacity to power both the TV and VCR.

There is a switch to toggle from battery power to AC power, through the brick.

It's very handy, when watching the tube at night on hook to not have to jump up and flip off the gen, or leave it running all night.

Do you have the model or brand of the "power brick" you mentioned?
 
What he called a "power brick" is nothing more than a run-of-the-mill AC Adapter.
You can pick up a "universal" adapter at Radio Shack, select the correct voltage, select the proper polarity for the plug (usually the center pin is +), and you're set to go.
 
What he called a "power brick" is nothing more than a run-of-the-mill AC Adapter.
You can pick up a "universal" adapter at Radio Shack, select the correct voltage, select the proper polarity for the plug (usually the center pin is +), and you're set to go.

You need to also be concerned with the amperage you intend to draw.
 

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