Swim deck maintenance

M

moospis

New Member
Oct 28, 2008
18
Lake Minnetonka
Boat Info
1979 Searay SRV 240
Engines
1997 350 Mercruiser
Hi all- Started to sand the swim deck today and really didn't want to but sanded down one part with 100 paper 'cuz that's all I had. Should I maybe wash it first with a type of bleach first? Then sand it? How about the finish? I have gotten advice to just stain it. Anybody have any tips on how I should do this project?
 

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I have to re-finish mine as well. :grin:

I have read that bleach alone will not kill all the mold that may be hanging around. So a teak cleaner is in order that kills mold. Also mold likes teak oil if its not removed properly. Even some suggesting a careful power wash.

So many question. I look forward to what the proper technique may be?
 
I would finish it up with 3-400 grit paper. Then I would use teak oil, which will probably require 3-4 coats judging from the look of it. It will be beautiful and only require a yearly cleaning and reapplication of teak oil. That is what I would do, but then I like the look of oiled teak.
 
Maybe I will get some 60 grit paper first and move my way up. Then teak oil sounds like the plan. Is there a good teak oil anyone knows of?
 
Is it plain wood - or is there varnish on it?
 
In that case, just get a two-part teak cleaner/brightner and then the oil. Amazon is one brand... I think Starbrite is another.

I've returned BLACK teak to like new that way. A stiff scrub brush will help.
 
Should I finish sanding it all first and then use the cleaner/brightener and finally oil at the end?
 
Shoot- Have done this swim deck lots of times but have used varnish which looked like hell after awhile. Looking for something to keep the natural teak wood look but keep it somewhat low maintenance.
 
moospis said:
Should I finish sanding it all first and then use the cleaner/brightener and finally oil at the end?
Click to expand...

I've never sanded a platform. Just the two-part system. Takes about an hour. Let it dry, oil it. Done. You will have to keep oiling it every so often, but that's pretty much it.
 
You want to minimize the sanding, because well, you are sanding down the platform. Use a stiff brush and teak cleaner instead. I have also used liquid Ivory soap as a starting point to get rid of the dirt.

SOmetimes things have gone too far and you must sand. In that case try and stay with grits above 120. Coarser grits can dig grooves (particularly with power sanders) that then require more overall sanding to get smooth. If you do not have a power sander resist the urge to use sanding disks on an electric drill.

Once it is clean, give it several coats of a good teak oil (don't forget the under side) making sure that you wipe off the excess. If you allow the excess to harden, it will become next year's black spot.

Henry
 
Ok I started the sanding on the top with 60 and went to 100. Will finish with 220. Will wipe it clean and then put mineral spirits on to clean the wood. Then put on the teak oil. Does this sound right? I remember doing this a few years back. Not a lot of shine but a nice looking protected teak deck. Anyone with me on this? Will post pics when done.
 
I've never used mineral spirits, so I can't answer that one. With mine I just clean it with soap and water, let it dry completely and apply teak oil. I used starbrite.

With my sons new, old Sea Ray (77 240 Sun Dancer), we sanded with one of those vibrating type sanders, 320 grit. Blew the dust off, washed, dried, and teak oiled. Looked like new. Incidentally, after we did the swim platform and cockpit this way, we discovered the power washer blasts most of the teak to an almost "new" look. Oiled it after drying and it looks pretty darn good.
 
Just asking out of curiosity... why don't you want to use the two-part cleaner?
 
I will use the two part cleaner even after sanding it. To me, the sanding takes it back down smooth so I am not worried about losing teak. Will pick up two part today if I can find it. Just wondering if I should take it off and do the bottom too.
 
Oh, OK. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at how well the stuff works - just follow the directions and let it do it's job. Don't forget the bristle brush.

Take the platform off? Well, if it comes off easy enough, it'll definitely be easier to work on the bottom side that way. Just be careful - teak is heavy.

If you don't oil it, it'll just turn to it's natural silvery/grey color. But at any time you can do the two part thing and get it back to a nice, clear, golden color.

PS: Please fill in your signature with your boat/engine specs.
 
LD, I know your question was directed to moospis, but I thought I would elaborate on sanding. On my sons boat, the teak had ridges or swells from wear. I've noticed this on a few other older boats. His is a '77, repowered a few years ago. After cleanup and teak work the boat looks like it is a year old. Back to sanding, the swim platform had very small ridges which were sanded down smooth. I'm not sure why the teak does this. As I recall, the high points are near the glue joints, so possibly the teak is more wear resistant at these points.
 
OK. I see what you guys are saying, now. So the sanding is more about making it smooth - not about getting it down to clean wood? That's what I couldn't understand -- why sand when the chemicals will do the trick?
 
I just finished the top today. 80-100-150. When I got to the 150 it seemed like it wanted to push the sand into the wood so I stopped. To me, it looks good. I agree with Barry. I just sanded to get it smooth and I also had a bit or varnish build-up in the grooves. Will post pics tomorrow and again after the brightener and oil.
 
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