Stuffing box shaft log packing

ks65609

ks65609

Member
Aug 30, 2009
342
Ontario Canada
Boat Info
1992 330 Sundancer
Engines
Twin 454 Mercruiser--340hp

V drive inboards
I have read numerous posts on different types of stuffing box shaft log packing but have not seen this type mentioned.

---tallow impregnated braided flax packing---

I would like to know if others on the forum have any experience with this type of packing.

Thanks
Ken
 
That is just old style wax packing. Modern technology has brought us things like Teflon and Gor-Tex packing which are both more expensive but will last longer and can be run tighter so you have a drier bilge without scoring the shaft.
 
fwebster said:
That is just old style wax packing. Modern technology has brought us things like Teflon and Gor-Tex packing which are both more expensive but will last longer and can be run tighter so you have a drier bilge without scoring the shaft.
Click to expand...

Frank
Thanks for the quick response.
Do you have a preference ?
The packing will be installed by the marina technicians.

Ken
 
I really don't............Sea Rays have all used drippless shaft seals since about 1995 so most of us here will not have first hand experience with packing types. I hear good things about the Gor-Tex product and we all know that Teflon reduces friction. I think I might ask the yard that is going to help you and ask their recommendations. Either one will be an improvement over the wax packing your boat came with.

You might also consider installing drippless seals now rather than spending the time and money on replacing your packing. The seals for your boat will be about $400 per side + about 2.5 hours to install both, plus haul out, but given your location, that could possible be done while you are out of the water for winter. The single biggest cause of maintenance issues is a wet bilge....the dryer you keep your engine spaces, the lower your maintenace needs and costs will be.
 
fwebster said:
I really don't............Sea Rays have all used drippless shaft seals since about 1995 so most of us here will not have first hand experience with packing types. I hear good things about the Gor-Tex product and we all know that Teflon reduces friction. I think I might ask the yard that is going to help you and ask their recommendations. Either one will be an improvement over the wax packing your boat came with.

You might also consider installing drippless seals now rather than spending the time and money on replacing your packing. The seals for your boat will be about $400 per side + about 2.5 hours to install both, plus haul out, but given your location, that could possible be done while you are out of the water for winter. The single biggest cause of maintenance issues is a wet bilge....the dryer you keep your engine spaces, the lower your maintenace needs and costs will be.
Click to expand...

Frank
Thanks very much for the additional input and advice regarding dripless. I was considering this solution however the expense gave me reason to reconsider. The marina has advised they install the tallow impregnated type of packing. I am going to ask a few more questions regarding my options. I have also read there are sometimes serious and expensive downsides to dripless, however that may be on retrofit applications as mine rather than factory installed. I am not sure. I am a strong advocate of a clean bilge as I have previously posted and keeping things dry is very appealing to me.

Thanks again
Ken
 
fwebster said:
That is just old style wax packing. Modern technology has brought us things like Teflon and Gor-Tex packing which are both more expensive but will last longer and can be run tighter so you have a drier bilge without scoring the shaft.
Click to expand...

Frank
Please advise if this packing is the type you are referencing
" GTU Gore Shaft Packing "

" This blend of W.L. Gore and graphite fibers is filled with PTFE ( Teflon ) creating a thermal conductive packing that’s strong and durable. It dissipates heat away from the stuffing box, allowing it to run cooler and more efficiently. "

Thanks
Ken
 
Last edited:
Yes, that's it.

The only real downside to dripless shaft seas are the initial cost and replacements if you have one leak or fail. The reason is because the boat must be out of the water, the prop must be removed, the shaft uncoupled from the transmission and then partially removed, the shaft polished, then reassembled after the seal is installed. The first time its about 2.0-2.5 hours per side depending upon how hard it is to uncouple the shaft. With seals at about $400 ea, and 2.5 hours labor per side so new dripless seals will run you some $1600+ unless you run into some unforeseen problem and assuming your yard knows what they are doing and can read and follow the instructions. That is a lot more than repacking with even expensive packing material.
 
Before I went to dripless shafts, I made plastic covers that went over the stuffing box that would deflex any atomized spray especially at higher rpms to the bottom of the hull. The amout of water was marginal but the atomizing of the drip to fine mist seemed to migrate thruout the bilge without the covers. This was a very effective and economical solution. I changed to dripless when I repowered.
 
fwebster said:
Yes, that's it.

The only real downside to dripless shaft seas are the initial cost and replacements if you have one leak or fail. The reason is because the boat must be out of the water, the prop must be removed, the shaft uncoupled from the transmission and then partially removed, the shaft polished, then reassembled after the seal is installed. The first time its about 2.0-2.5 hours per side depending upon how hard it is to uncouple the shaft. With seals at about $400 ea, and 2.5 hours labor per side so new dripless seals will run you some $1600+ unless you run into some unforeseen problem and assuming your yard knows what they are doing and can read and follow the instructions. That is a lot more than repacking with even expensive packing material.
Click to expand...

Frank. First, thank you for confirming I have found the correct material. Second, I very much appreciate the time you have taken to fully explain not only the cost, but also the additional specific information regarding potential downsides of dripless. Now, along with the other inputs I have received I can make an educated decision. Since my shaft log stuffing boxes are very easily accessed (actually easier than the engine oil dipsticks) I am leaning towards installing the Gore-tex/teflon packing this time around. If you check "89 300 Express engine bay" pics under Classics there a few shots of the engine bay.

Thanks very much again
Ken
 
velooce said:
Before I went to dripless shafts, I made plastic covers that went over the stuffing box that would deflex any atomized spray especially at higher rpms to the bottom of the hull. The amout of water was marginal but the atomizing of the drip to fine mist seemed to migrate thruout the bilge without the covers. This was a very effective and economical solution. I changed to dripless when I repowered.
Click to expand...

Interesting invention. I do not really have any issue with spraying of moisture around the bilge, but I do get a bit anal with water in the bilge. This is our first boat with inboards and we sure learned a lot over the summer. Quite a bit of trial and error, with water literally flowing from the stuffing boxes to none at all. I knew at the start of the season repacking was going to be necessary when hauled and now the time has come make the decision.

Thanks for the help and input
Ken
 
I installed Gor-Tex packing on my 39 three years ago and have had no problem. There is very little if any water dripping from the shaft. I recommend them to everyone I know.
 
DougLas said:
I installed Gor-Tex packing on my 39 three years ago and have had no problem. There is very little if any water dripping from the shaft. I recommend them to everyone I know.
Click to expand...

Doug
I was just getting ready to e-mail the marina and give them the green light for the Gor-Tex packing and your timing is perfect.

Thanks very much
Ken
 
If they have never used Gor-Tex tell them to follow the directions. Not to over tighten.
 
fwebster said:
I really don't............Sea Rays have all used drippless shaft seals since about 1995 so most of us here will not have first hand experience with packing types. I hear good things about the Gor-Tex product and we all know that Teflon reduces friction. I think I might ask the yard that is going to help you and ask their recommendations. Either one will be an improvement over the wax packing your boat came with.

Frank,
It is the very first part of your post that I have a question about. Sea Rays have all used drippless shaft seals since about 1995 so most of us here will not have first hand experience with packing types.
My 400EC is a 1996 so I
should have drip-less shafts correct. My port side leaks water into my bilge. Is this just a tightening issue or do I have a problem?
Joe
Click to expand...
 
I installed GTU Gore Shaft Packing [blend of W.L. Gore and graphite fibers filled with PTFE ( Teflon )] in June.

Zero leaks, drips, or problems. Cost me about $60 [including teflon grease] to do 2 shafts, 1.5 inches in diameter.

I would never use the old style flax packing again.
 
Captain Crispy said:
I installed GTU Gore Shaft Packing [blend of W.L. Gore and graphite fibers filled with PTFE ( Teflon )] in June.

Zero leaks, drips, or problems. Cost me about $60 [including teflon grease] to do 2 shafts, 1.5 inches in diameter.

I would never use the old style flax packing again.
Click to expand...

I just got back from my boat. I do have stuffing type not drip-less. Having said that I need to redo mine with maybe the GTU like you did. Question - how hard was it to do? Is it just removing the old stuff and putting in the new? Do I need any special tools?
Thanks, Joe
 
What do you use the Teflon grease for? I am about to do two in a 300WE. Is there a recommended tightening procedure beofre I put her in the drink?

Joe, First of all, thank you for your service. Secondly, You should buy an extractor tool. I got a couple of them. It makes removing the old packing a breeze. It looks like a tiny cork screw with a T handle. Just thread it in and pull it out. I can pull out multiple layers at one time.

Thirdly, Thats one Hell of a boat!!!!!!
 
speakrdude said:
What do you use the Teflon grease for? I am about to do two in a 300WE. Is there a recommended tightening procedure beofre I put her in the drink?

Joe, First of all, thank you for your service. Secondly, You should buy an extractor tool. I got a couple of them. It makes removing the old packing a breeze. It looks like a tiny cork screw with a T handle. Just thread it in and pull it out. I can pull out multiple layers at one time.

Thirdly, Thats one Hell of a boat!!!!!!
Click to expand...

Speakerdude,
Thanks for the info on the tool. I will look for one this week. Yes, she is one big boat. Big move from my 27 SD.
Thank you and others for acknowledging or service time and for your support.
Joe
 
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