Stubborn Oxidation

[Madifonzo]

Blue hulls are tough. Dockside of the boat came out great! Seaside not so much. I am using a DA Porter Cable polisher. I use Marine 31 products for everything. So, I am using their orange pad (designed for oxidation removal) and their heavy cut hull cleaner/oxidation removal compound. After the first pass I went back over with 3M compound. Both left areas of heavy oxidation...

So my question is...are more passes needed or better compound?

Also, I had the whole boat buffed and waxed prior to the start of this season. I was surprised as to how much oxidation is there now. Is there a regular regimen that should be done to the hull throughout the summer? I rinse down after every use...will regular application of a carnuba spray wax prevent the oxidation?

 

[390x]

Blue hulls are tough. Dockside of the boat came out great! Seaside not so much. I am using a DA Porter Cable polisher. I use Marine 31 products for everything. So, I am using their orange pad (designed for oxidation removal) and their heavy cut hull cleaner/oxidation removal compound. After the first pass I went back over with 3M compound. Both left areas of heavy oxidation...

So my question is...are more passes needed or better compound?

Also, I had the whole boat buffed and waxed prior to the start of this season. I was surprised as to how much oxidation is there now. Is there a regular regimen that should be done to the hull throughout the summer? I rinse down after every use...will regular application of a carnuba spray wax prevent the oxidation?

Get some Presta Super Cut with a wool pad on a rotary polisher. If it doesn't take off your oxidation, nothing will.

 

[Hifirush]

I agree with 390x, its great for removing heavy oxidation. If that doesn’t work you could try sanding first, then follow up with Presta Super Cut. I’m not recommending it, I have never used this method on anything but a white hull. I’ve used 1000 grit followed by 1500 then used Presta and then on to polish and then wax. It is painstaking and difficult, I also worried about sanding through to the fiberglass, but the result was excellent. Now I keep up on the polish and wax. Your dark hull, would make me even more afraid of sanding....

Matt

 

[saopm]

Duel Action polishers are a bit of a waste of time. Your best bet is a variable speed rotary. I’ve tried most of the Presta products. Super Cut works great for heavy oxidation. I’m back to using Buff Magic (using a foam pad) and Pro Polish (applied by hand or by Duel Action polisher) for maintaining the shine each season. I reapply the Pro Polish once or twice throughout the summer months. It is easy on and easy off and takes the black steaks off with no effort.

 

[Madifonzo]

Thanks for the advice all. I don't own a rotary buffer and I have heard you need experience to use it anyways. DA buffers are more forgiving. I am going to try and lightly wet sand with 1500 grit then hit it with 3m finess, the. Polish and wax. So if I keep up with frequent waxing through out the season will that keep oxidation at bay? I have about s six month season....so twice? Will spray wax work for that or does it need to be liquid wax?

 

[Jersey Mike]

Don't wetsand if you only have a DA...or ALOT of time...even then I think you'll be disapponted...Rotary learning curve on the hull isn't that big...now topsides around rails on arch, standing off balance that's a bigger curve in the road...DA ( a 4"pad) is great for applying wax though.

 

[Hifirush]

Don't wetsand if you only have a DA...or ALOT of time...even then I think you'll be disapponted...Rotary learning curve on the hull isn't that big...now topsides around rails on arch, standing off balance that's a bigger curve in the road...DA ( a 4"pad) is great for applying wax though.

Unfortunately this is quite true. You NEED a rotary buffer to get the sand marks out. Its not hard to learn to use it. If you do have a DA, use it for applying the wax and polish!

Matt

 

[Madifonzo]

So if I am understanding everyone correctly, buying a rotary buffer with a wool pad and using my existing compound will remove oxidation AND the swirl marks left over from wet sanding? I wet sanded today and the oxidation is now gone but up close you can see sanding marks. Still looks better but wish I didn't have the sanding marks.

 

[MancaveII]

High quality marine paste wax...no spray wax will protect a dark hull for very long, if at all.

 

[Hifirush]

So if I am understanding everyone correctly, buying a rotary buffer with a wool pad and using my existing compound will remove oxidation AND the swirl marks left over from wet sanding? I wet sanded today and the oxidation is now gone but up close you can see sanding marks. Still looks better but wish I didn't have the sanding marks.

Yes, you need the rotary buffer, it will make easy work of the swirls.

Matt

 

[saopm]

Make sure you use a good wool pad. Check out the Presta website. They have several wool pads to choose from. I use the one in the link below for heavy buffing. You will also need the adapter plate. The pads attach to the plate via Velcro. You can by a cheap rotary from Harbor Freight. It may even come with a backing plate and a cheap wool cover, but don't use it. Get the good one from Presta or similar.

http://www.prestaproducts.com/Black_and_White_Wool_Compounding_Pad__890146-details.aspx
http://www.prestaproducts.com/Flex_Foam_Backing_Plate__810116-details.aspx

 

[dpmulvey]

High quality marine paste wax...no spray wax will protect a dark hull for very long, if at all.

Proof and recommendations please. Some of today's waxes and polishes work at the molecular level so I can't say I agree with the paste wax theory anymore.

I know of no wax with "SPF" like sun tan lotion.

 

[MancaveII]

Not disagreeing, new polishes with certain additives will do fine...it was the reference to "spray" wax, i.e. thinking like the car wash stuff. Now I have some $40 a can spray (aerosol) nano technology stuff that works GREAT on my car finishes and I can do a car in half the time, but spraying it on a boat results in some very bad streaking on dark colors.

I have a cabinet full of waxes and I've just found that certain paste wax with modern additives (not sure what all they use) like Collinite line of waxes have truly longerish lasting results...say the fleetwax...it's some work, but wow the results are amazing and durable.

No spray wax is going to hold up. A liquid wax, certainly and normally just an option of the paste wax variant ...just find a paste easier to work with on a hull.

and some marine waxes do discuss UV protection, but I'm not aware of any SPF ratings.

AND the difference is modern automotive finishes are clear coated so molecular protection of the clear keeps the overall look shiney and new...gel coat is not, and so you literally are keeping the base coat finish in tact to keep the overall shine and appearance. Strip the clear coat off a car and see how long a nano tech wax keeps the appearance of that finish looking new

When in doubt, either go to consumer reports and/or try out the recommendations of professionals in your area.

If you're trying to get by with a quick and easy solution to preserving the finish of a boat, the results will show. I'm not saying you have to live with a buffer attached to your hull, but a dark hull just takes more work and you're better off staying ahead of it with quality products. You absolutely get what you pay for in premium finish care products...mostly, just do your research.